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Pressure Washer Secrets: Ways to Use These Tools Correctly

opening image pressure washer

Cleaning farm equipment
Photo by Steve Maxwell

If you’ve got outdoor stuff to keep clean in your life, then you’ve probably thought about getting a pressure washer. I know they’re useful tools because I’ve owned and used several models here at my place every year for more than 25 years. In this article I’ll explain how gas-powered pressure washers work, what they’re good for, what they’re not so good for, and I’ll show you the top uses I put my pressure washer to each year, including two you’ve probably never even heard of before.

pressure washer close

Up close spray
Photo by Steve Maxwell

What’s a Pressure Washer?

Pressure washers are portable cleaning devices that take water from any typical garden hose outlet at pressures of 40 to 70 psi, then boosts that pressure up to 2500 psi and beyond to increase the cleaning action of the water. This boost in pressure comes from either an electric motor or gasoline-powered engine. I prefer gas pressure washers because they deliver the powerI need, so gas models are what I’ll focus on here.

pressure washer action

Removing tough mud
Photo by Steve Maxwell

How a Pressure Washer Works

Every pressure washer has a water inlet port where you connect a garden hose, plus an outlet – a high pressure water outlet – where you connect a special hose and wand that delivers water for cleaning.

Start by connecting the garden hose to your pressure washer. I always install all-metal quick connect fittings for this, to speed setup and take-down time. It’s much better than threading the garden hose directly onto the pressure washer.

pressure washer quick connect

Pressure washer quick connect
Photo by Steve Maxwell

It’s important that the engine on any pressure washer never run without the pump being filled with water first. This is why I always let water flow through the pump until all air is displaced before firing up the engine. Simply turn on the water at the hose outlet, pull the trigger on the wand, then let low pressure water flow through the hose and onto the ground until all air bubbles stop coming.

Here’s an important detail: Be sure to remove any nozzle tip that may be installed on the end of the wand before letting water flow to purge air. This allows water to move through the pump more quickly and it also allows any sediment to flush from the system without plugging the removable nozzle tip. If the nozzle tip becomes clogged or partially clogged when the engine gets fired up and pressure builds, it can make the nozzle very difficult to remove for cleaning. Flush first, then install the nozzle tip of your choice after flushing and purging. I know from experience that this could save you considerable hassles.

pressure washer nozzles

Choose the right nozzle for the job
Photo by Steve Maxwell

Speaking of nozzle tips, every pressure washer comes with a variety of nozzle tips that produce different spray patterns. The wider the pattern, the more gentle the spray. Narrower tips are best for removing tough dirt on tough surfaces that are not easily damaged.

With your pressure washer purged of air and an appropriate nozzle installed on the end of the wand, it’s time to fire up the engine. The procedure is different than starting a lawn mower or snow blower even though the engines involved are similar.

pressure washing starting

Start up
Photo by Steve Maxwell

Starting a Pressure Washer

The challenge when starting a pressure washer is that the engine is usually under considerable resistance even before it starts. Since the water pump can’t be disconnected from the motor, it makes the motor harder to spin over during start up, and this resistance to spinning can prevent the engine from starting easily. Switch ON the ignition, turn ON the fuel, set the choke and pull the starter cord and you’ll see what I mean.

If the cord isn’t sluggish and difficult to pull at first it will get that way with more pulls on the cord as the pump loads up internally with water. The solution? Simple. Just hold the wand in one hand and pull the trigger and keep it open with water flowing out, then use the other hand to pull the starter cord. Just remember to point the wand in a safe direction as you do all this since high pressure water will come out of the wand as soon as the engine starts. Let it run and warm up for 15 to 30 seconds while continuing to hold the trigger open. After that you can usually take the choke off and release the wand trigger.

pressure washing cleaning

Use for cleaning surfaces
Photo by Steve Maxwell

Pressure Washer Use #1: Cleaning

This seems like an obvious use for a pressure washer, but there’s more here than meets the eye. While pressure washers do deliver much more pressure than a garden hose, it’s possible that this pressure can damage surfaces. Avoid trouble by approaching any new surface with caution. Begin with a wide-spray nozzle and keep the tip at least 24” away from the surface at first. Change to the next more intense nozzle and bring the wand tip closer to the surface if you need more power. Pressure washers are very effective at cleaning nooks and crannies, as well as delivering water up high enough to reach elevated locations. Be careful, though. Always test a small area first, and let the surface dry completely before deciding if your pressure and distance details are correct. It’s possible that a pressure washer can leave marks behind that only become visible after the surface has dried.

Some pressure washers have a reservoir that delivers liquid soap automatically into the spray stream for maximum cleaning of greasy or grimy surfaces. Just be sure to rinse surfaces with clear water as a final step.

When it comes to pressure washers and cleaning surfaces, there’s something that many people find surprising. Sometimes scrubbing before pressure washing works better than pressure washing alone. Surface dirt, especially dust, can hang on even under the full brunt of high pressure water. In cases like these scrubbing can be more effective, though it can’t extend to every corner. This is why washing house siding, for instance, often works best with a three step process: initial low pressure washing using soap delivered by the pressure washer; scrub the siding with a long-handled brush; pressure wash off the dirt and soapy water with moderate pressure and clear water. Avoid directing high pressure water under the bottom edge of siding or anywhere else where water penetration into the building envelope might happen.

pressure washer media blaster

Media blaster
Photo by Steve Maxwell

Pressure Washer Use #2: Sandblasting Surfaces

If you need to prepare metal for finishing or refinishing, then a pressure washer with something called a “media blaster” attachment is something you should know about. Made by several manufacturers, these fit onto the end of any pressure washer wand and includes a large diameter hose. Stick this hose into a pail of sandblasting media such as glass beads or coal particles and it gets drawn up into the wand tip by suction caused by the rapid movement of water through the tip. The abrasive particles get mixed with the water, delivering more abrasive action than if the blasting media had been used in an air-powered sand blasting gun. No dust, either, and faster results!

pressure washer leaching pipe jetting

Leaching pipe jetting
Photo by Steve Maxwell

Pressure Washer Use#3: Septic System Revival

You’ve probably never heard of this technique before, but a pressure washer can save you a five figure septic rebuilding job if you’ve got a system that’s failing for the usual reasons of clogged leaching pipes. Connected to a long, flexible jetting attachment with a self-propelled head, your pressure washer becomes the engine for cleaning inside the leaching pipes that are at the heart of most septic systems. Have your septic tank pumped so you have at least a couple of days before sewage flows out into the leaching bed, then dig down and find the ends of your leaching pipes.

Cut off the ends of the pipes to open them and allow the flexible jetting attachment to enter. The head of this attachment is self-driving in that it will pull itself into the pipe under its own power. No need to push the jetting hose. Rather you’ll need to hold it back. One jet points forward to bust through crud, while three jets angle backwards to propel the rest of the hose inside the pipe via the force of the pressurized water. The results work very well. When nothing but clean water comes out of your leaching pipe, stop jetting, then replace the end cap that you cut off from the pipe with a removable port that can be unscrewed next time for easy access.

I’ve used the same procedure to completely revive septic systems so far gone sewage was overflowing out of the top hatches of the tank. This same technique works well for clearing badly clogged plumbing drain pipes, even when the clog is 100 feet from the nearest inlet.

pressure washer winterizing

Use non-toxic plumbing anti-freeze to winterize your washer
Photo by Steve Maxwell

Winterizing Your Pressure Washer

Does it get below freezing where you live? Water that remains in the pump can freeze, expand and damage your pressure washer if it’s stored in an unheated garage or shed, as many are. This is why winterizing the pump is essential. Connect a funnel and a short length of garden hose to the pump and pour about 6 ounces of non-toxic plumbing anti-freeze into the funnel. With the ignition switch OFF and the spark plug wire removed, pull the recoil starter handle several times until anti-freeze squirts from the high pressure outlet of the pump. It just takes a few pulls to get the job done.

I’d be lost without a pressure washer here at my place. It’s one of those things you don’t realize how often you use until you have one handy. Get one and you’ll understand what I mean.

Steve Maxwell is a DIY expert and longtime contributor to MOTHER EARTH NEWS. He and his family homestead on Manitoulin Island, Canada, cultivating a little patch of  farmland surrounded by a sea of forest. Connect with Steve at, and read all of his MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts.

Building Closet Shelves with Medium-Density Fiberboard with Video

Under construction closet shelves. Photo by Adam D. Bearup

As a custom builder, I get the opportunity to build closet shelves on a regular basis. When a client asks me to build closet shelves for them, my first question is, “do you want wire shelves or do you want solid shelves?” Sometimes, clients love the wire shelves that can be bought at a box store, and I will buy a kit to install. Wire shelves can be nice, but, most clients do not want wire shelves and ask for custom solid shelving instead.

There are more options for solid shelving than just buying a pre-laminated shelf board and putting into a closet. Custom, built-in shelves are more easily accomplished using the different thicknesses of MDF board that is available at most box stores.

What is MDF?

The acronym MDF stands for “medium-density fiberboard” and is made of a combination of fine-particle wood fibers, glue, and pressure to press it all together. MDF differs from particle board, which is made of larger wood chips and is not smooth. MDF can be molded and custom painted with ease, while particle board is rough and does not handle edging tools very well without chipping.

My go-to material, with regards to MDF, is the ¾-inch, 4-foot-by-8-foot sheet. This is a heavy board that may be hard to handle as a sheet, but is more versatile to build with than any other material I have used. This is because MDF is easily cut, shaped, and sanded, and the material paints extremely well.

Custom MDF Shelves

In the video, I show you how to make a simple set of shelves in a closet. I start with a full sheet of ¾-inch MDF and cut multiple shelves out of a single sheet. The toughest part of this process is getting the shelves to fit into the closet, because no closet is ever perfectly square.

After watching this video, you should be able to create a custom set of closet shelves without having much more than a few tools. Transform your closets into more storage space and less clutter by building shelves with MDF.

And don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel so that you can keep up to date with new videos!

Adam D. Bearup is a designer, green builder and farmer, who learned about biodynamic and regenerative farming for a project he built in Northern Michigan, The Earth Shelter Project MichiganAdam has degrees in marketing and management and a Masters of Science in Green Building. Read all of his MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our blogging guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts.

Video: How to Make a Raccoon Fur Bag

raccoon fur bag

Finished bag made from a tanned raccoon fur
Photo by Fala Burnette, Wolf Branch Homestea

For nearly 7 years, my husband and I have enjoyed tanning hides and furs in our spare time, responsibly putting part of a harvested animal to good use. I often encourage those who are thinking about small predator management, such as the trap and dispatch of a nuisance raccoon who may be lurking near a chicken coop, to learn about tanning and not let the hide go to waste. The question remains of what to do with the finished hide, and it opens the door for many interesting craft projects.

Raccoon furs are often turned into the old fashioned mountain man/pioneer style caps, but what else could be done with them? We tried using a bottled tanning formula last year for a raccoon hide, and decided to make a small carrying bag for the woods from it.

The accompanying video is a look at how we approached making our bag; I wanted the tail to remain on, so I folded the hide almost in half, and draped the tail over as a way to close the bag by tying a piece of lace around the tail to hold it in place. The item requirements included: one raccoon fur, lace/strap material (I used some previously tanned deer hide leather, braided), a pencil, scissors, a small utility knife, artificial sinew, sewing needle, awl, and a hammer. Because of the tools used, younger folks need to ask for an adult’s help in making this project. Please use caution when handling tools.

I started by folding the bag as I wanted it to look, making pencil marks where I needed to trim off the excess hide. It is important when using the utility knife to carefully cut from the underside (“flesh” side that is tanned) and not use scissors or cut from the outside. This helps to preserve the length of the fur, which helps cover your edges. I then turned it inside out, lining up the edges and carefully using the hammer and awl to make matching holes through the fur. Once the sides were sewn together, it was time to turn the bag right side out again.

I made two small holes at the front, using a small piece of tanned deer lace (we used a scrap piece of buckskin and turned it into even lace strips) to feed through from the inside that would tie around the tail and hold the flap of the bag closed. I then took three long strands of the same lace and braided it together to make my strap. I made two larger holes at the top of the back side of the bag, feeding the laces through and tying a knot to hold them in place.

Other ideas for this include making a smaller bag with a belt loop instead of a braided strap or sewing a liner to the inside (flesh side), so that your bag has a nice clean interior instead of directly putting items into the tanned area. Take your bag with you on a nice walk in the woods, carrying inside your emergency fire starting supplies, or carry a book with you for a nice relaxing read in nature. Consider learning about tanning, and put your next raccoon fur to good use by turning it into a little bag just like this!

Be sure to let us know how the project turns out for you, and how you’ve made the bag all your own!

Fala Burnette is a homesteader with her husband at Wolf Branch Homestead in Alabama. They are currently building their own log cabin and milling their own lumber, along with raising heirloom crops in the Spring and tanning furs during the Winter. Read all of Fala's MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts.

Video: Building a Headboard from Materials in the Barn

I turned an old, re-purposed material into a custom headboard. Photo by Adam Bearup

My wife created a “honey-do” list for me quite awhile ago and my schedule never allowed me to get started on that list. Like many other people in our country, I have found myself working from home more than I had in the past. One of the big items on the list is to clean the barn, and that got me thinking about the other line items on the list. As I looked at the different line items that would require me to build stuff, I immediately thought about all of the material that I had accumulated throughout my building career and how using that material to build stuff would be better than just throwing it out.

I was looking over the list and I saw the line item that said “headboard for our bed”, and I decided that I would move that to the top of the list. I went in and measured our California king bed frame so that I knew the sizes of material that I needed to build the headboard. As I headed out to the barn to see if we had material to build a headboard, I grabbed the video camera and filmed the adventure that I had searching for material and building a custom headboard.

I searched the barn for something sturdy enough to make a headboard out of and found an 8-foot-tall door that has been in the barn for years. I sanded the finish off of the door to see what kind of wood that it was made out of. It is amazing to see what treasures lay beneath old dust and paint!

For the side support legs, I found rough-sawn white oak and coaxed the boards into working with the old door. After locating just enough red oak and adding it as accent trim, I discovered that the headboard was too heavy to lift and move from the barn. I ultimately used our Sky Track, aka The Pink Panther, to lift and haul the headboard up to the house.

Join me on this adventure as I show you how to turn old, re-purposed material into a custom headboard. Please subscribe to my YouTube channel so that you can be notified when the latest project video is updated.

Adam D. Bearup is a designer, green builder and farmer, who learned about biodynamic and regenerative farming for a project he built in Northern Michigan, The Earth Shelter Project MichiganAdam has degrees in marketing and management and a Masters of Science in Green Building. Read all of his MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our blogging guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts.

Basic Portable Sawmill Maintenance: Blade Care

Forest Ranger Using Portable Sawmill 

USDA Forest Service engineer Neal Bennett adjusts a log on the portable sawmill at the Greenbrier Ranger District, Monongahela National Forest, Pocahontas County, West Virginia
Photo by Flickr/Monongahela National Forest

Modern homesteaders are enjoying simpler, richer, more fulfilling lives, inspired from the fruits of their own hard earned labor.

It's understandable then that the decision to build a home or shelter using one's own milled wood is a popular goal among many homesteaders, and has been throughout the ages. Those living on wooded acreage or with access to an authorized raw wood stock, may experience the true joy and satisfaction that this very rewarding endeavor can bring.

The reward may not necessarily reflect that solely from a monetary standpoint. In fact, depending upon the scope and size of a project, harvesting and processing wood from one's own wood stock can easily become a very complex process. You may be asking how so? Well there is the felling of specific trees, milling, drying and the storage of various lumber that can make for an arduous experience. An experience which can quickly become more expensive and less convenient than purchasing standard frame lumber from a standard commercial retailer at the outset.

So, if milling one's own lumber costs potentially more in time, money and labor, then why do it?

There are many perfectly good reasons to do it. One of which stems from the self-gratification of pure, hard but meaningful work, born out of the very heart and soul of self-sufficiency. If you would like to get the opportunity to experience the deep level of satisfaction derived from building using one's own milled wood, then a well maintained sawmill will assist you in the process.

This post is not intended to represent an exhaustive approach or complete authority over the subject matter. It is intended to provide basic tips of portable sawmill maintenance for smaller operations, such as that of a homestead. Assuming that all safety guidelines are followed throughout, let us begin where many woodcraft dreams are made: At the blade!

Sawing a plank
Photo by Pexels/cleyderduque

Blade Care

Quality sawmill results start and end with sharp blades.

Sawmill blades offer their best results when they have been properly sharpened. A homesteader may have their sawmill’s blades sharpened and set using a sharpening service or high quality sharpening equipment.

Sharp blades provide an operator with better wood production overall. Sharp blades offer more precision, accuracy, fuel and time efficiencies.

Blade break-in period. Allow a break-in period after installing a new sawmill blade. To do this, perform a couple of test cuts at a moderate rate of speed. You should also limit the amount of skim cuts made with only one side of the set tooth operating.

Blade tension. For best blade performance, it is essential that blade tension is checked periodically. Proper blade tension permits higher blade speed performance. It is also a good idea to check hydraulic tension, springs and air bags.

Belt tension. After installing new drive belts, take care to maintain proper belt tension. New belts have a tendency to slacken. Tighter tension allows for a better transfer of horsepower and RPM to the sawmill’s blade.

Blade wheels belts. The blade wheel belts must be in good condition to reach peak performance, because worn belts can lead to blade tracking problems. Swapping drive side and idle side can extend belt life.

Blade guides. Check blade guide alignment to prevent any cutting irregularities. The guides should be aligned straight, without being pitched up or down and the rollers should be clean, secure and spinning freely. Rollers should be replaced if they have been worn slick or are cone shaped. The blade should have complete freedom of movement and not rest on the roller flange or back guide.

Blade cleaning. Cleaning cuts down harmful, wearing debris on blade teeth. It’s a good idea to use a debarker on logs prior to cutting. Small rocks, dirt and general debris that’s contained in the bark can wear down the blade prematurely. Debris is abrasive and wearing on blades and diminishes blade life and cutting performance. 

Blade lubrication. Lubricated blades provide ease in blade cutting performance by keeping the blade smooth and clean between sharpening service. Lubrication also helps stabilize chain length pitch by reducing build-up and extending the overall life of the blade as a whole.

Feed rates. Take care with feed rates. Slower speeds diminish band saw blade life. Feed as fast as possible without lag or decreased cutting accuracy.


A very portable sawmill - chainsaw
Photo by Pexels/karolinagrabowska

Wood Species

Become more knowledgeable about different wood species and the specific wood that you are cutting. For example, hardwoods' versus softwoods' characteristics or older, drier wood being more difficult to cut than younger, moist wood and the proper cutting techniques and feed rates that should accompany them. 

The aforementioned points will help provide for a good portable sawmill operation experience, while also protecting or preserving its associated parts.

This concludes Part 1 of basic portable sawmill maintenance.

Next up: We will look at engine and battery maintenance and a few additional areas that will help keep your sawmill running smoothly for years to come.

Monica White is a freelance writer, member of the Georgia Air National Guard, and an avid runner and cyclist who loves the great outdoors and all things DIY. She divides her time between Tampa and her central Florida property, where she's growing a self-sufficient homestead. Connect with Monica on her outdoor lifestyle blog, on FacebookTwitter and InstagramRead all of her MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts.

Recycled Map Crafts


Do you have trouble throwing out old maps? We do! We keep maps from vacations, old atlases, and road maps. So over the years we have accumulated lots of maps and I have come up with several uses for old maps.

Map Window Shade

We found an old instructional map in the alley behind a church.  It is titled, “Palestine during the Time of the Judges” and shows a map of the Middle East. This large roller map was in a bit of disrepair but it is still really beautiful and interesting. Roller maps do not hang well on walls unless they are framed or glued down because the edges curl. Mounting them into roller shade hardware is just as easy as hanging a regular window shade.  The edges don’t curl too much because the map spends much of its time rolled up.

Your challenge is finding a map that is the right size. If you use an exterior mount you have a little bit of leeway.  You can measure your window and purchase vintage roller maps on Ebay or at Atafa. 

Window Shade made From A Map

Window shade made from a map
Photo by Sarah Hart Boone

Wallpapering with Maps

You can wallpaper a wall with whole maps or pieces of maps. For small areas I use Mod Podge, a nontoxic glue, sealer and finish available at craft or hardware stores. You also can use regular wallpaper paste or other products like water based acrylic varnish or even make your own wallpaper paste  

On our living room wall, I picked the area between the molding and the ceiling and covered that with map scraps. In my crafting room I chose one wall and am covering that with map pieces. Maps adhere pretty well without crinkling up but you still need to carefully put them on and smooth out the wrinkles with each piece. You can cover the finished wall with another coat of sealer or leave it as it is. You can cover more of a wall by using larger pieces or even entire maps but then you will need to be even more careful about getting the map affixed to the wall without lots of air bubbles.

Using Maps As Recycled Wallpaper

Using maps as recycled wallpaper
Photo by Sarah Hart Boone

Decoupage with Maps

Decoupage used to be known as the poor man’s art. Originating in the 18th century in Europe, it was a way for clever artists to copy the elaborately painted furniture that was stylish in wealthy homes by affixing carefully cut out pictures to tables and chairs and chests and applying multiple layers of varnish. The National Guild of Decoupagers has a gallery showing absolutely amazing and complicated decoupage.

So, when I use the term “decoupage” please know that I am using it a little bit loosely. Instead of applying up to 50 layers of varnish to the paper and sanding between layers, I tend to apply 2 or 3 coats and call it a day. For decoupage I use Mod Podge. You also can use gel medium or other brands of decoupage glue. You do not want to use regular white glue because the map pieces will wrinkle up. You can use the Mod Podge or whatever product you choose to affix the paper pieces, then paint over the top with it. It will look like thick white goop but dry clear. I made a scrap book with my children using an old baby board book and cut the letters out of maps. They added photographs, pieces cut out of brochures, and their own artwork.

Switch Plate With Decopauged Map Cover

Decoupaged switchplate with maps
Photo by Sarah Hart Boone

I also have made a map mirror, a map switch plate cover and other cool map projects.  For the switch plate cover I wrapped it like a present and glued the edges down securely, trying not to have it be bulky on the underside so it would mount well. I painted Mod Podge over the top a few times (letting it dry between coats) then used a razor blade to cut slits in the rectangle where the switch needs to protrude, folding the paper back and gluing it. I left the screw holes covered and used the screws to poke holes when I mounted it.

Think about commemorating a vacation by making a map tray or picture frame, covering a cigar box with map pieces, or using maps to decorate the drawers on a bureau. After you get the hang of basic decoupage, you can really have fun and use up some of those maps you’ve been saving.

Sarah Hart Boone is a soap-making homesteader who utilizes her garden to make plant-based perfumes, body scrubs, candles and more. Read all of her MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our blogging guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts.

Video: Building a Corner Media Unit from Materials in the Barn

Corner Media Unit With Television Mounted by Adam Bearup

My wife created a “honey-do” list for me quite a while ago, and my schedule never allowed me to get started on that list. Like many other people in our country, I have found myself working from home more than I had in the past. One of the big items on the list is to clean the barn — and that got me thinking about the other line items on the list.

The Need for a Corner Media Unit

As I looked at the different projects that would require me to build stuff, I immediately thought about all of the material that I had accumulated throughout my building career and how using that material to build stuff would be better than just throwing it out.

My wife approached me about how dangerous it was that our television was on top of an old, unstable book shelf. We do not have cable or satellite channels, and all of our television watching is with DVDs. Our two-year-old enjoys switching out DVDs constantly and that was making my wife nervous because the area looked like tragedy could strike at any minute.

Given the choice to either stay inside and watch the Earth Shelter Documentary again or go out to the barn and see if we had the materials to build a new corner media unit, I chose the latter. For fun, I took along the video camera and filmed the process.

Repurposing Walnut Boards from the Barn

In this video, you will see what it took to take re-purposed material in the barn and turn it into a custom corner media unit. I was fortunate enough to find a few old walnut boards in one of our outbuildings that became a beautiful top for the corner unit.

In the video, I show you every step of the process, even how to take old, worn out boards and breathe new life into them! I also show you how to build custom cabinet doors without a workshop full of cabinet-making tools!

I used a circular saw for most of my intricate cuts and it looks like I used more tools than I actually did. Watch this video for fun or for learning and please subscribe to my YouTube channel so that you can see when all of my honey-do project videos get uploaded.

Adam D. Bearup is a designer, green builder and farmer, who learned about biodynamic and regenerative farming for a project he built in Northern MichiganThe Earth Shelter Project MichiganAdam has degrees in marketing and management and a Masters of Science in Green Building. Read all of his MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our blogging guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts.

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