Our June/July issue featured lots of egg love, including praise for pastured eggs from many chefs around the country. Here, Cathal Armstrong of Restaurant Eve in Alexandria, Va., shares his favorite way to use fresh eggs. Serves 8
Smoked Mackerel Roulade with Herbed Mayonnaise and Sauce Gribiche
For the roulade:
5 tbsp unsalted butter
6 tbsp all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the pan
1 1/4 cups whole milk, heated
4 large eggs separated
1/2 tsp salt
3 tbsp chopped chives
3 ounces smoked mackerel
For the filling:
1 cup homemademayonnaise
1/2 tsp dry mustard
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp lemon juice
3/4 cup canola oil
1/2 cup cream cheese
4 tbsp chopped scallions
1 tbsp chopped dill
2 tsp lemon juice
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a buttered 15-by-10 (1-inch) quarter-sheet tray with parchment paper. Butter the paper, dust with flour, and tap out the excess.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk in the egg yolks , 1 at a time. Season with salt. Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Stir 1/2 of the whites into the yolk mixture and fold in the rest. Then fold in the chives and flaked mackerel. Pour the batter into the bottom of the prepared pan and smooth gently with a metal spatula. Transfer to the oven and cook until golden and firm to the touch, about 10 minutes.
Cover the egg sponge with a buttered piece of parchment paper, buttered side down. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and invert onto a work surface. Peel off the paper from the top. Allow the Sponge to cool.
Make the mayonnaise. Beat the cream cheese until smooth and fold in the mayonnaise, scallions, dill and lemon juice. When the sponge is cool, spread the filling and use to towel to roll it up.
Cut into 1/2 inch slices with a serrated knife. Serve with Sauce Gribiche (recipe follows).
4 hard-cooked eggs
2 hard-cooked egg yolks
1/2 tbsp Dijon mustard
1/2 tbsp lemon juice
1 cup canola
Bunch of fresh chervil, chopped
1/2 bunch of fresh tarragon, chopped
1/4 cup capers, drained and chopped
1/2 cup cornichons, drained and chopped
Put the whole eggs and yolks, mustard, and some salt in a large bowl and mash them well together. To this paste, add the lemon juice and then the oil, drop by drop, as if making mayonnaise. Finish the sauce by adding the chopped herbs, capers and cornichons. Taste and correct the seasoning.