How to Size Charge Controller?

By Hoss Boyd
Updated on November 5, 2024
article image
courtesy of Outback Power

Learn how to size charge controllers, inverters, and solar panels already on hand with a goal of future expansion.

Welcome to our series answering reader questions and concerns about how to cut the utility- company cord.

I just purchased eight 200-watt solar panels that I plan to pair with two 200-amp deep-cycle batteries (that I’ll probably run at 12 or 24 volts). However, I’m in the dark for what size of charge controller and inverter I should buy for my current setup if I hope to add more panels and batteries in the future.

-Ron Clement

In country lingo, I might say you’re building your system “bass-ackward.” Over the years, I’ve met many folks who took the same approach: They picked up what appeared to be good deals on solar panels or batteries and attempted to build systems around the equipment they’d scrounged. This order of operations can yield fine results, but I prefer designing a system first – allowing you to buy your equipment as an interoperable set. But let’s see what you’ll need to make a suitable system using the equipment you already have.

Inverters operate off the voltage of solar panels and batteries. Because you have eight solar panels rated at 200 watts each, you can expect a maximum of 1,600 watts of direct current (DC) input power under optimal conditions. Temperature, time of year, your location, and a host of other variables will influence actual power production – plus, you’ll experience losses when converting from DC to alternating current (AC). Expect to never achieve the full 1,600 watts of power. (Be wary of salespeople who try to sell you solar systems based on nameplate ratings, which inflate output numbers.)

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