Featuring everything you need to know to put up the seasons’ bounty, The Art of Preserving (Weldon Owen, 2010) by Rick Field and Rebecca Courchesne illuminates how to savor your favorite fresh produce year-round. From beginners looking to learn, to those familiar with the technique, everyone will appreciate this contemporary and comprehensive approach to preserving the wealth of fruits and vegetables from backyard gardens and farmers’ markets. In this excerpt from the chapter “Condiments & Sauces,” learn how to make homemade ketchup and mustard that will put the store-bought varieties to shame.
Classic Ketchup Recipe
Make this ketchup when tomatoes are at their summer best. Sweet, juicy garden-fresh tomatoes are reduced to a gently spiced, lusciously thick condiment. Your favorite purchased ketchup will never taste the same after you sample this irresistible homemade version.
Ingredients:
12 lb (6 kg) tomatoes
1 Tbsp olive oil
3 small red bell peppers (capsicums), seeded and coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1 cinnamon stick, crushed
1 Tbsp celery seeds
1 1/2 tsp whole allspice
1 1/2 tsp whole cloves
1/2 tsp peppercorns
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
1 1/2 cups (12 fl oz/375 ml) cider vinegar
2 Tbsp sugar
1 1/2 tsp salt
Makes 6 half-pint (8-fl oz/250-ml) jars
Instructions:
Have ready hot, sterilized jars and their lids.
Blanch, peel, and core the tomatoes, then cut into quarters. In a large nonreactive saucepan over medium-low heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onions and peppers and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until tender, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the garlic and the spices on a square of cheesecloth (muslin), bring the corners together, and tie with kitchen string. In a small nonreactive saucepan, bring the vinegar and cheesecloth bag to a boil over medium-high heat, cover, and remove from the heat.
Pass the tomato mixture through a food mill into a clean nonreactive saucepan. Discard the cheesecloth bag and pour all but 1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) of the vinegar into the tomato mixture. Stir in the sugar and the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer, stirring often, until the mixture is reduced by more than half and mounds slightly on a spoon, 45-60 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, sugar, and the remaining vinegar.
Ladle the hot ketchup into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Remove any air bubbles and adjust the headspace, if necessary. Wipe the rims clean and seal tightly with the lids.
Process the jars for 10 minutes in a boiling-water bath. The sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year. If a seal has failed, store the jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Chipotle Ketchup Recipe
Pairing chipotle chiles and tomatoes yields a perfectly balanced accompaniment especially suited to grilled meats such as hamburger, flank or skirt steak, or pork chops. The chiles, jalapeños that have been dried in a smoke-filled chamber, have a deep, sweet flavor.
Ingredients:
4 lb (2 kg) tomatoes
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 yellow onions, coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground allspice
1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) cider vinegar
2/3 cup (5 oz/155 g) firmly packed light brown sugar
1 can (7 oz/220 g) chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
Salt to taste
Makes 6 half-pint (8-fl oz/250-ml) jars
Instructions:
Have ready hot, clean jars and their lids.
Blanch, peel, and core the tomatoes, then cut into chunks. In a large nonreactive saucepan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onions and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, coriander, and allspice and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes longer. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, and sugar and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are tender, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, cut the chiles in half and remove some or all of the seeds, depending on how spicy you want the ketchup. Reserve the adobo sauce and chop the chiles. When the tomatoes are ready, stir in the chiles and 1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) of the sauce. Let cool briefly.
Working in batches, transfer the tomato mixture to a blender and purée until smooth. Return the puréed mixture to the pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring often, until thickened, about 20 minutes. Season with salt.
Ladle the hot ketchup into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Remove any air bubbles and adjust the headspace, if necessary. Wipe the rims clean and seal tightly with the lids.
Process the jars for 15 minutes in a boiling-water bath. The sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year. If a seal has failed, store the jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Dijon Mustard Recipe
The famed mustard associated with Dijon, France, is easy to make. Some versions require grinding whole mustard seeds and spices. This one champions simplicity by combining dry mustard with a few essential ingredients. The result is smooth and creamy, and not too hot.
Ingredients:
1 1/3 cups (4 oz/125 g) dry mustard
2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) dry white wine or flat Champagne
1 yellow onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp salt
Makes 2 half-pint (8-fl oz/250-ml) jars
Honey Dijon Mustard
Omit the sugar. Stir in 2 Tbsp honey before transferring the mustard to the jars.
Tarragon Dijon Mustard
Add 1 Tbsp chopped fresh tarragon before transferring the mustard to the jars.
Dijon with Mustard Seeds
Add 2 tsp brown mustard seeds during the last 5 minutes of cooking.
Instructions:
Have ready hot, sterilized jars and their lids.
In a bowl, stir together the mustard and 1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) water until smooth. Set aside.
In a small nonreactive saucepan, combine the wine, onion, and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, stir in the sugar and salt, and simmer, uncovered, stirring often, until reduced by half, about 20 minutes.
Pour the wine mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into the mustard and stir until combined. Transfer to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 20 minutes.
Spoon the hot mustard into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Remove any air bubbles and adjust the headspace, if necessary. Wipe the rims clean and seal tightly with the lids. Store the jars in the refrigerator for up to 1 year. For the best flavor, let the mustard stand for at least 2 weeks before using.
This excerpt has been reprinted with permission from The Art of Preserving, published by Weldon Owen, 2010.