Fruit Tree Planting Tips

Apple trees should be planted in full sun, where possible. Six hours of sunshine is the minimum. Full sun encourages vigorous growth and full-bodied fruit. It inhibits fungal diseases. At the same time, apples should not be planted on harsh western or southern exposures. In contrast to peaches and plums, apples prefer the cooler northern and eastern slopes.

Air Flow

Apples should be planted where there is good (but not excessive) air flow. Upland slopes running perpendicular to prevailing winds are the ideal. Valleys and ridge tops are the places to avoid. If you have no option but to plant in a valley, try a late-blooming variety like Bramley’s Seedling, Court-Pendu Plat, Mother, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Mollies Delicious, Ralls Janet, or Sweet Sixteen. If a peak is your only option, go with something tough like Smokehouse or Ben Davis.

Protect bare-root trees from exposure to sun and wind prior to planting. If unable to plant quickly, heel the trees in. A good way to transport trees just prior to planting is to set the roots in a five-gallon bucket of water.

Planting Parameters

Dig the tree hole a foot or so deep and a couple of feet wide–big enough that no roots will be cramped.

Plant semidwarf trees with the graft union two to three inches above the ground. If the union is buried, the tree may root from the scion and become a standard tree. Plant standard trees an inch or so deeper than they were in the nursery, with the graft union at or below ground level.

Roots & Soil

Roots covered with clay should be soaked prior to planting. Prune off any broken or damaged roots. Long roots may be removed as necessary.

Spread the roots naturally in the hole and fill with good soil. Tamp the soil sufficiently to remove large air pockets. Heavy soils should be amended with bark or compost, but don’t overdo it. Too much organic matter can make the hole soggy and cause root rot.

Fertilize newly planted trees with a little bone meal or rock phosphate to stimulate rooting. Do not use nitrogen fertilizers the first spring as they promote quick top growth without proper root support. Later in the season you can bring out the big guns: manure, compost, or fish emulsion.

Watering

Give newly planted trees plenty of water. This pro motes good soil-to-root contact. It is also important to monitor the soil during the first growing season. If dry to the touch a couple inches down, it’s time to get the hose. A good rule of thumb is to water two to three times a week during dry spells.

Pruning

Transplanted trees need to be pruned to compensate for root loss. Prune two- and three-year trees to stubby scaffold branches. Head one-year trees to about 30 inches. Heading determines the position of a tree’s lowest branches. Five feet is high, two feet is low. Years ago, folks headed high in order to plant crops and cultivate between rows. Today, most people head low; it makes for easier picking.

Mail-Order Nurseries

• Ames’ Orchard & Nursery– Fayetteville, AR
  Catalog free. Ames’ specializes in disease-resistant apple varieties.
• Hidden Springs Nursery– Cookeville, TN
  Catalog $1.
• Southmeadow Fruit Gardens– Baroda, MI
  Free price list. Illustrated catalog $35. Southmeadow offers over 250 apple varieties.

Read more about Fruit Planting:

• Southern Apple Trees
• Growing Soft Fruits for Beginners
• Easiest Fruit Plants to Propagate
• Good Fruit Trees for Beginners

Originally published as “Planting Tips” in the October/November 1996 issue of MOTHER EARTH NEWS magazine and regularly vetted for accuracy.