The Unsustainability of Local

Reader Contribution by Tendergrass Farms
Published on April 24, 2013
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A few months back I heard a comment on an NPR radio program that really caught my attention. The program was about the local food movement and at one point the guest on the show said, “Now remember – just because it’s local doesn’t necessarily mean it has a smaller carbon footprint. That Argentinian apple that was shipped on a barge with thousands of tons of other apples may actually have required less fuel per apple than the apple than came from a few hundred miles away in the back on a farmer’s pickup.”

Pretty interesting, huh? It caught my attention because, for me, it was refreshing to hear someone who was really thinking critically about their food system. Don’t get me wrong, I love buying local food. But assuming that locally produced food automatically has a lower environmental impact is, well, a bad assumption.

I grew up on a little organic vegetable farm outside of bustling Asheville, NC and loved farming from about age 12. My parents proudly marketed their organic vegetables to local restaurants within just an hour’s drive from the farm. After graduating from college I moved to the tiny rural town of Floyd, VA where I took on the management of my father-in-law’s grass fed meats farm and eventually bought my own little farm there as well. After marrying my wife, Ann, I made an agreement with my father in law to take a couple of years to do everything I could to make his farm and little roadside farm store economically viable, something that had not yet been achieved over the 10 or so years that they’d been farming.

Photo: My Father-in-Law, John Paul Houston.

I did everything I could to attempt to get locals to drive out to our little farm to buy our exceptional grass fed meats. I called up local universities to try to get wholesale accounts that I thought could perhaps save the farm. I called every health food store in the area trying to convince them that the prices we were offering were honest and fair given the quality of our products. But it was of no avail.

That’s when I decided that for us, ‘local’ might just not be as sustainable as we had hoped, at least from an economic perspective. Little did I know that even from an environmental perspective the local food model I had been attempting to implement was far from efficient.  At the same time we realized that we weren’t the only rural farmers who were facing this same hurdle of having the ability to produce wonderful grass fed meats but not having much luck finding a way to reach the customers who wanted to support us. I knew that somewhere there were customers who would love to purchase our meats but that they were facing the exact opposite problem: they couldn’t find us anymore than we could find them! That’s when the idea for a nationwide cooperative-style online grass fed meats shop was born.

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