DIY





Successful Beekeeping with Your Own Honeybees

Beekeeping can be a fun and productive hobby. You’ll have your own fresh honey, and keeping bees is easier than you might think.

| July 16, 2009

If you’ve ever thought about beekeeping, I strongly encourage you to jump in and get started. There are continually new things to learn, observe and enjoy. It brings you close to nature, and bees pollinate crops and provide honey.

I enjoy beekeeping now even more than I did in 2005, my first year of keeping bees. That first year, I followed most recommendations from books and classes, even if I was uncomfortable with them. Then in 2007, three-quarters of the honeybees in Ohio died from colony collapse disorder, including one of my two hives, and I became bolder about trusting my own instincts. The result has been that I enjoy beekeeping much more, and the number of beehives I have has increased from two to eight.

I think it’s important to read, meet other beekeepers through your local bee association, listen to their speakers, and even find a mentor for your first year. But I would encourage you to experiment and deviate from conventional wisdom, if you’re so inclined. In my experience, chemicals or artificial food supplements are not necessary. The following strategies have worked for me and will help you enjoy beekeeping right from the start.

Avoid Chemicals

Mite infestations are the primary reason chemicals are routinely used in beehives. I stopped all chemicals after my first year, and now I dust the bees with powdered sugar to help them groom off the mites. The bottoms of my hives are made of screen so that the mites fall through as the bees remove them (and can’t easily get back to the bees). Honeybees continue to live with mites, but gradually build sufficient resistance to stay healthy.



Bees forage over a 2-mile radius, so it’s difficult to protect them from all chemicals. Remind your neighbors that insecticides kill bees, which are necessary for pollination. It may help to bribe neighbors with a jar of honey.

Don’t Be Greedy

It sounds like common sense to allow the bees enough of their own honey and pollen to feed their young and stay healthy. But many people take the honey and honeycomb for profit and expect the bees to live on sugar water. If you want healthy bees, allow them the fruits of their labor. Healthy bees will make enough honey for you, too.

lauren
7/27/2014 2:31:38 PM

Help, I live in Norfolk, Va. I am an organic gardener with a small back yard and garden. My garden did not produce this year because I have no honey bees to pollinate. I have all the right flowers and have plenty of bumble bees, dragonflies and butterflies. The size of my yard won't accomdate a hive. What can I do? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help. Lauren, lwright804@cox.net


mehdi
8/10/2013 10:08:35 AM

Hi
I am Mehdi from IRAN.
I spent 10 years as a professional beekeeper and about 5 years to remove all drugs have to produce Organic honey.
High quality honey from mountain herbs IRAN.
Unfortunately,due to lack of sufficient interest in organic honey, for sale with reasonable price,I am in trouble.
Please guide me.
Can I supply these products (with guaranteed analysis) in your country?


Mary Lou Shaw
8/8/2009 2:52:52 PM

Reply to Catrin and Tuve: Powder Sugar: About 80% of mites are in the cells with the developing brood, so powder sugar helps with only the 20% which are on the bees either because it makes the bees slippery and the mites drop off, or because it makes the bees groom themselves and therefore groom off the mite. Either way, you want a screen bottom on the hive so they can't climb back up to the bees. Weekly dusting would be nice, but pretty bothersome to the bees. I do it every two weeks, but not when the honey supers are on. I don't want powder sugar in the honey, nor the corn starch used in most powder sugar. I use a framed screen over the top deep hive-body, sprinkle one cup of powder sugar per deep hive-body, then brush it through with the hive brush. Also brush it off the tops of the frames. Buckwheat: Used as a cover crop (one month from seed to flowering)I plant it wherever I have room as the vegetable crops come off the garden. The amount I plant has nothing to do with the number of hives, but everything to do with the amound of land. I do know a farmer who planted a couple acres and had wonderful buckwheat honey though! Buckwheat plant freezes easily, and breaks down nicely as green manure. ml







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