Over Two, Under One: Basket Weaving With Reeds

By Flo Hoppe
Published on January 1, 1983
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(Fig. 4) Separate the spokes with Japanese weave. Follow a patter all the way around where you go over two reeds, under one, over two, under one.
(Fig. 4) Separate the spokes with Japanese weave. Follow a patter all the way around where you go over two reeds, under one, over two, under one.
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Wrapping a side handle.
Wrapping a side handle.
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The end result of a successful basket weaving project. This version has two side handles.
The end result of a successful basket weaving project. This version has two side handles.
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(Fig. 6) The triple weave. Lay three No. 2 weavers behind three consecutive spokes and mark the first spoke with a twist-tie.
(Fig. 6) The triple weave. Lay three No. 2 weavers behind three consecutive spokes and mark the first spoke with a twist-tie.
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(Fig. 5) When the bottom is the size you want, you're read to weave the sides. Use pliers to help bend side spokes up. Pinch firmly, then, with your hand, gently push the spoke away from you.
(Fig. 5) When the bottom is the size you want, you're read to weave the sides. Use pliers to help bend side spokes up. Pinch firmly, then, with your hand, gently push the spoke away from you.
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(Fig. 2) Begin to wind the
(Fig. 2) Begin to wind the "button" over arm A. (Fig. 3) Turn the cross counterclockwise so that arm B is up, and weave the long strand over arm C. Continue weaving and turning so that you always weave over the arm at right.
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(Fig. 7) A step-up is used to make each row look complete in itself. To achieve this effect, end the first row of rust with the weavers coming from behind the three spokes to the left of spoke 1.
(Fig. 7) A step-up is used to make each row look complete in itself. To achieve this effect, end the first row of rust with the weavers coming from behind the three spokes to the left of spoke 1.
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Finishing the first row of the border.
Finishing the first row of the border.
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(Fig 1.) Punch holes in four base spokes and thread four others through.
(Fig 1.) Punch holes in four base spokes and thread four others through.
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Reed basket with a single handle
Reed basket with a single handle
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Procedure for adding a new reed once a basket weaving project is underway.
Procedure for adding a new reed once a basket weaving project is underway.
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Working the second row of the border. You'll want to pull the first two spokes out about two inches so the last two will be easier to interlace.
Working the second row of the border. You'll want to pull the first two spokes out about two inches so the last two will be easier to interlace.
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Completing the gathering wrap on the single handle. Run your awl carefully through the handle, put the end of the weaver through from right to left, and cut it off flush with the handle.
Completing the gathering wrap on the single handle. Run your awl carefully through the handle, put the end of the weaver through from right to left, and cut it off flush with the handle.
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Beginning the side in triple weave. Take the left weaver in front of the next two spokes to the right and, at the same time, over the top of the other two weavers. Now, run it behind the third spoke and back to the outside.
Beginning the side in triple weave. Take the left weaver in front of the next two spokes to the right and, at the same time, over the top of the other two weavers. Now, run it behind the third spoke and back to the outside.
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(Fig. 10) Row 2: Bring each spoke in turn in front of the two spokes to its right, while holding down the spokes that are sticking out to the front. Then run each spoke to the inside, going under the loop formed by the first row. (Under one, over two, under one, over two)
(Fig. 10) Row 2: Bring each spoke in turn in front of the two spokes to its right, while holding down the spokes that are sticking out to the front. Then run each spoke to the inside, going under the loop formed by the first row. (Under one, over two, under one, over two)
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(Fig. 9) Border Row 1: Working to the right, bend down the first spoke and take it behind the next one, and out. Repeat this procedure with each spoke, interlacing the last with the first and going from the inside to the outside.
(Fig. 9) Border Row 1: Working to the right, bend down the first spoke and take it behind the next one, and out. Repeat this procedure with each spoke, interlacing the last with the first and going from the inside to the outside.
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(Fig. 8) To make the four-row trac border, soak the spokes for ten minutes, then crimp them close to the weaving so they bend to the right.
(Fig. 8) To make the four-row trac border, soak the spokes for ten minutes, then crimp them close to the weaving so they bend to the right.
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(Fig. 11) Looking down into the inside of the basket, hold three spokes straight out. Attach twist-ties at the bend of each of the first two spokes. Then bring the left spoke over the two right ones, and push it down under the third. Continue taking each spoke on the left over the next two to the right, and down.
(Fig. 11) Looking down into the inside of the basket, hold three spokes straight out. Attach twist-ties at the bend of each of the first two spokes. Then bring the left spoke over the two right ones, and push it down under the third. Continue taking each spoke on the left over the next two to the right, and down.
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(Fig. 15) If you prefer a basket with two side handles, cut a pair of 15
(Fig. 15) If you prefer a basket with two side handles, cut a pair of 15" lengths of No. 8 reed, then taper and cut each end on a slant.
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(Fig. 12) In order to be able to insert the handle easily into the basket, each end must be tapered. Shave the inside of the handle ends — starting three inches from each tip — to about half their thickness.
(Fig. 12) In order to be able to insert the handle easily into the basket, each end must be tapered. Shave the inside of the handle ends — starting three inches from each tip — to about half their thickness.
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(Fig. 13) To make a rope wrap for a basket with a single handle, run a long, pliable No. 2 weaver under the border, from the inside to the outside, at point A. 
(Fig. 14 Keep the first loop that goes through the basket as far to the left as possible, and add the subsequent wrappings to its right, filling the space between the first loop and the handle.
(Fig. 13) To make a rope wrap for a basket with a single handle, run a long, pliable No. 2 weaver under the border, from the inside to the outside, at point A. (Fig. 14 Keep the first loop that goes through the basket as far to the left as possible, and add the subsequent wrappings to its right, filling the space between the first loop and the handle.
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(Fig. 16) To wrap each side handle, run a long, pliable No. 2 weaver under the border from the inside to the outside at point A.
(Fig. 16) To wrap each side handle, run a long, pliable No. 2 weaver under the border from the inside to the outside at point A.

Everybody loves a basket! And whether you’re using that woven container to tote vegetables from the garden, display fruit on your kitchen table, or just stash away an unfinished needlework project, you’ll find that your satisfaction in the task is doubled if the basket is one you’ve made yourself.

Many types of material are suitable for basket weaving, but one of the best is reed. Strong, pliable, and light, reed comes from the core of the long shoots of the rattan palm, which grows in the tropical forests of many South Pacific islands. These shoots reach lengths of 200 to 600 feet as they trail over the floor of the jungle or hook onto other trees and plants. And once the thorny outer bark has been removed, the smooth, glossy underbark is stripped off in specific widths to be used for caning chair seats and such.

Beneath this layer is the actual reed — the core of the vine — which is harvested and machine-processed into round and flat strips of different diameters and widths. The sizes range in diameter from No. 0 at 1/64″ (used for making miniatures) to No. 12 at 3/8″ (used for sturdy handles). As a rule, the spokes — which are the ribs or framework — of a basket should be two numbers coarser than the weavers… which are the flexible strands that are woven over and under the spokes.

Reed is sold in one-pound bundles priced at approximately $5.00 to $7.00 each. It can be purchased either from craft stores or through such mail order suppliers as H.H. Perkins Co., the Cane & Basket Supply Co., or The Earth Guild.

On Nature and Bristles

Since reed is a natural material, each of the strands will have its own unique character. After you’ve soaked a bunch of them in water (the first step in the basket-weaving process), you’ll find that some lengths are very strong and sturdy, others feel as soft as cooked spaghetti, and still others snap all too easily. To sort out the No. 5 (1/8″) reed that’s generally used for the basket spokes, leave an entire bundle in warm water for five minutes. Because the spokes must be firm and strong, you can then discard any that feel spongy or soft. No. 2 (5/64″) reed is often selected for the weavers. All but the most brittle of these can be used. Do save the more pliable ones for starting the base of the container, though, as that’s where the coils are tightest.

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