According to culinary legend M.F.K. Fisher, “Scrambled eggs have been made, and massacred, for as long as people knew about pots and pans, no doubt.” The secret to perfectly pillowy eggs is to cook them low and slow to prevent the proteins from stiffening. The extra effort is worth it.
2 farm-fresh eggs
1 tsp butter
Thoroughly beat your eggs in a bowl with a whisk or fork, until you no longer see a separation of white from yolk. Bring a pan of water to a gentle simmer. Set another pan over the top of it or down into it, so that the top pan does not touch the water. Melt a pat of butter in the pan. If it melts immediately, turn down the flame. Pour in the whisked eggs, and begin to fold gently with a spatula, or stir the eggs in large figure eight motions with a wooden spoon or even a chopstick. The idea is to keep large curds intact. As soon as the eggs are nearly cooked, remove them to a serving dish. Michael Ruhlman, author of the fascinating technique cookbook Ruhlman’s Twenty, likes to cook scrambled eggs just until they appear to have sauce on them. Serves 1.