How to Silk Screen for Fun and Profit

By Richard Schmidt
Published on January 1, 1980
1 / 11

PHOTO 2:: Lay photo sensitive film emulsion side down on flat white paper, then place your acetate sheet on the film. Make sure the letters/image are reversed. PHOTO 3: After exposing the film to sunlight or a high intensity lamp, wash away those parts of the  emulsion that were covered by your letters. The pattern has been transferred to the film.
PHOTO 2:: Lay photo sensitive film emulsion side down on flat white paper, then place your acetate sheet on the film. Make sure the letters/image are reversed. PHOTO 3: After exposing the film to sunlight or a high intensity lamp, wash away those parts of the  emulsion that were covered by your letters. The pattern has been transferred to the film.
2 / 11

FIG A: A silk screen printing board with pin-type hinges for easy removal of the frame. FIG B: Method of securing fabric to one side of a frame and stretching it tight to the other. FIG C:
FIG A: A silk screen printing board with pin-type hinges for easy removal of the frame. FIG B: Method of securing fabric to one side of a frame and stretching it tight to the other. FIG C: "Z" tabs made of paper enable you to position each piece you're printing in the same position under the stencil.
3 / 11

Positioning your letters or images on a clear acetate sheet is the first step to creating a screen.
Positioning your letters or images on a clear acetate sheet is the first step to creating a screen.
4 / 11

PHOTO 4: Position photo design on screen, with letters/image reversed. PHOTO 5: Turn frame over and blot the inside of the screen to remove water and fix the stencil to the screen.
PHOTO 4: Position photo design on screen, with letters/image reversed. PHOTO 5: Turn frame over and blot the inside of the screen to remove water and fix the stencil to the screen.
5 / 11

PHOTO 6: After stencil dries, peel off the acetate backing. PHOTO 7: Apply glue block-out over parts of the screen not covered by your stencil.
PHOTO 6: After stencil dries, peel off the acetate backing. PHOTO 7: Apply glue block-out over parts of the screen not covered by your stencil.
6 / 11

Method of using a squeegee and screen to applying ink to paper.
Method of using a squeegee and screen to applying ink to paper.
7 / 11

A Stoneware Pottery flyer after the first pass.
A Stoneware Pottery flyer after the first pass.
8 / 11

Positioning a flying for a second pass with a different screen and different color of ink.
Positioning a flying for a second pass with a different screen and different color of ink.
9 / 11

Completed versions of the Stoneware Pottery flyer.
Completed versions of the Stoneware Pottery flyer.
10 / 11

Taping Z-tabs in place so other flyers can be positioned for a second pass.
Taping Z-tabs in place so other flyers can be positioned for a second pass.
11 / 11

PHOTO 13 & PHOTO 14: Method of cleaning away the design on a screen so the screen can be used for something else.
PHOTO 13 & PHOTO 14: Method of cleaning away the design on a screen so the screen can be used for something else.

When potter Susan Shutt set out to publicize her semiannual stoneware sale, she wanted to have an attractive color flyer to pass around … but couldn’t afford the commercial printers’ prices. So Susan turned to silk-screening–a type of stencil printing that’s used to produce posters, street signs, drinking-glass designs, labels, and personalized T-shirts–to create a high-quality color ad on heavy paper at an economical cost.

The printing project was a definite success. Sue’s handmade announcements attracted hundreds of customers, and she sold enough pottery in one day to keep her little self-operated business going for another five months!

If you’d like to cash in on this creative way to print, too, you’ll find that the costs for supplies and equipment will run somewhere around $20. Better yet, all the items you’ll need are available at art supply and hobby shops! Here’s what you need to know how to silk screen.

Frame and Fabric

The silk screen, itself, is nothing more than a wooden frame with fabric stretched tightly across its face. The devices can be bought (in a variety of sizes) ready-made … but you can also build one out of appropriate lengths of knot-free, 1″ X 2″ wood strips which are doubled on each side, lap-jointed at the corners for strength, and varnished to reduce the chances of warping.

The size of your screen’s frame will depend, of course, on the size of the design you wish to reproduce. At a minimum, you’ll need 3 1/2 inches of clearance between the outer edge of your artwork’s stencil and the frame. This “freeboard” allows the screen to flex as you print.

Comments (0) Join others in the discussion!
    Online Store Logo
    Need Help? Call 1-800-234-3368