DIY: How to Alter a Pattern

Whether you need to lengthen or shorten a garment, these DIY instructions will teach you how to alter a pattern.

By Amy Barickman
Published on September 8, 2014
article image
by Unsplash/Volha Flaxeco

The Magic Pattern Book(Workman Publishing, 2014) by Amy Barickman reveals 6 magic patterns that can be transformed into 216 different looks. Her exciting, surprising and stylish book comes complete with beautiful full color photographs and illustrations, step-by-step instructions and a CD of printable patterns. The following excerpt from “Sewing Basics” shows you how to alter a pattern to fit your needs.


To alter a pattern is to change its structure so that the end garment will fit your particular body. Most pattern sizing is based on a single bust/waist/hip proportion–but not all bodies conform to that proportion!

Often, there are small alterations that need to be done, with concerns toward height or sleeve length. These are easy to fix, since many pattern pieces already have preprinted lines where you can lengthen or shorten your garment. If the pieces you need to lengthen do not have lengthen/shorten lines, add your own! (In order to maintain the original silhouette of the garment, it’s important to adjust the garment from a fairly central location, allowing any pattern pieces that attach to the lower edge of the garment piece to still fit.) The best place to add these lines, generally speaking, is (for a dress, top, vest, cardigan, or coat) about halfway between the bottom of the armhole opening and the hem. For a skirt, add the line about halfway between the crotch and hem, and for a sleeve, add it halfway between the bottom of the armhole opening and the hem.

To Lengthen a Garment

1. Gather all of the pieces you will be altering. Be sure to change the front and back as well as any facings. (It is imperative that they all have the same changes made!)

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