Raised Bed Garden Layout and Soil Layers

Customize your raised beds with these tips.

By Kenny Coogan
Updated on April 18, 2025
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by Kenny Coogan
From left: Bob Hawkins, Nicole Pramik, and the author at The Farm at Okefenokee.

What do I put on the bottom of a raised garden bed? Design your raised bed garden layout to maximize sunlight and layer with a ground cloth, limestone, sand, organic matter, and garden soil.

Gardening in raised beds requires less equipment compared with traditional in-ground methods and offers a more controlled growing environment. In a raised bed, you can add, supplement, and monitor the exact soil and nutrient combinations each plant requires, as well as adjust the water intake more easily than in traditional farming. We talked to the gardening experts at The Farm at Okefenokee near Folkston, Georgia, for their tips on getting started with raised beds.

Raised Garden Bed Dimensions

  • Height. Use the natural width of a board, or double or triple up the boards, up to 14 inches. Those with limited mobility might prefer their raised beds to be waist-high to reduce back or leg strain.
    Raised beds that are too short run the risk of making the middle of the bed less accessible. Most raised beds at The Farm are 10 by 5 by 1 feet. “They’re beautiful,” Bob Hawkins, the regenerative agriculture farm manager, says. “But if they were taller, it’d be easier to reach the middle.” As a result, the workers at The Farm grow plants that have a longer growing time in the middle of those beds, since their location makes them relatively difficult to access.
  • Length. Hawkins notes that the size of your boards will typically decide the length of your raised beds. He recommends a maximum length of 10 feet to help with watering the beds. “You can separate the watering and irrigation for each plant so it’s easier to control,” he says.
  • Spacing. Nicole Pramik, who’s responsible for the greenhouses and nearly 100 acres of crops and gardens on The Farm, avoids planting mints, thyme, or oregano in raised beds that are close together, since she finds that those plants are prone to unwanted spread. I’ve similarly found these plants to be a problem in places without a long winter. She also cautions against the raised beds being too close together in the first place, which allows for easy access plus less seed drop from mature plants in adjacent beds.
  • Sunlight. Hawkins recommends building your raised beds from north to south for both sides to have equal amounts of sunlight. “If you have a plant that isn’t going to do as well in full sun and likes fewer hours of direct sunlight or partial shade, then you could run it east to west and have the larger plant that loves full sun on the south side and the shaded-out plant on the north,” he explains.
    You can also create microclimates within a bed. “Trellising can help with that,” Pramik adds. “Trellises can provide afternoon shade, depending on where they’re placed.”
  • Width. Keep the width of your raised beds no more than 4 to 5 feet wide, Hawkins says, and ensure that at least three sides of the raised bed are accessible. The middle of L-shaped raised beds can be difficult to access without stepping in the beds, which will compress the soil. Tip: Keep a spare board to lay across your raised beds to step on instead of compacting your soil!

Eastern Red Cedar Boards

Eastern red cedar, well-known for being resistant to mold and insects, is the material of choice for most of the raised beds at The Farm. Workers at The Farm are optimistic that the beds will last for at least five years and hopefully closer to 10.

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