Build a Fold-Over Library Chair

By Richard Freudenberger
Published on September 1, 1989
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The library chair solves the problem of having two pieces of furniture where there's really only room for one. Folded over itself, it's a sturdy step stool; otherwise, it's a comfortable straight-backed chair that is not all that costly or difficult to build. The chair converts to a stool by unhooking a latch and folding the back forward.
The library chair solves the problem of having two pieces of furniture where there's really only room for one. Folded over itself, it's a sturdy step stool; otherwise, it's a comfortable straight-backed chair that is not all that costly or difficult to build. The chair converts to a stool by unhooking a latch and folding the back forward.
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Most of the chair parts have duplicate right and left pieces; the supporting pieces on the inside are cut to match each other and the face boards they attach to.
Most of the chair parts have duplicate right and left pieces; the supporting pieces on the inside are cut to match each other and the face boards they attach to.

In the family cottage at North Carolina’s High Hampton Inn, there’s a piece of furniture that’s unobtrusive, yet at the same time curious. It’s an upright wooden chair that folds over itself to become a stepping stool–aptly called a library chair because of its practicality in a room where standing and reaching for books can occupy as much time as sitting and reading the volumes.

Even if you don’t have a study, you can find plenty of use for a chair such as this in the kitchen, dining room or any other place where there are shelves beyond normal reach. The original piece–made over a century ago for former governor Wade Hampton of South Carolina–is somewhat narrower and a bit taller than the one you see here, but our modern version is a lot easier to build and uses a store-bought, workable clear pine rather than the stubborn, hand-milled oak of an earlier time.

Simple as this project is, you’ll still welcome the help of a few power tools. A fine-bladed jigsaw and an orbital palm sander would each go a long way toward quickly shaping a number of parts, and a 3/8″ variable-speed drill with a 1/4″ Forstner bit could be used to sink the dowel-pin holes that connect components. In lieu of a standing table saw, a carefully wielded circular saw or ripsaw can be used to make the necessary straight cuts.

Be mindful of selecting clear or knot-free lumber for the project. Any good structural species will do, yet a No. 1 or select softwood–pine, hemlock or western fir, for example–combines the benefits of availability, low cost and a sound, straight grain. The best 1 × 12 shelving stock is a good choice since you can plan around any imperfections. Count on using two 8′ boards–and double that if you buy 1 × 6s and plan to glue-join the few parts wider than 5 1/2″.

To start, cut all the pieces to their unfinished dimension as indicated in the materials list. Note that the size of the seat asks that you edge-glue two boards together to get the required 13 1/2″ depth. That done, begin shaping the individual parts. If you make your cuts accurately, the joints will be structurally sound; small gaps can be filled and smoothed later.

Take a look at how the chair is designed–facers adjoin carriers, which support the crosspieces. Since nearly every component of the chair has a duplicate, it’s best to clamp and cut each pair together so they’re symmetrical. In the case of the carriers, they can be traced from the trimmed face pieces, then match-cut with their mates.

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