Solar Greenhouse
Every inch of growing space is precious in the winter and this guide helps maximize it, including greenhouse layout, light, temperature, humidity, care and feeding of crops, design rules of thumb.
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In winter, every inch of growing space is precious.
by Nancy Bubel
Remember how much you longed for your first bicycle—
or car? That's how much I wanted a solar greenhouse! Many a
winter I raised seedlings under fluorescent lights, always
wishing the abundant sunlight of our south-facing land
could reach my starts.
Well, dreaming, planning, and saving finally led to
building. And now there is a modest solar greenhouse
attached to our small Pennsylvania home. But, as always
happens when I get something I've longed for, the realized
dream brought with it a challenge: learning to use my
greenhouse well. So, over the past few years, I've studied,
experimented, and observed carefully, and—even though
I still consider myself a beginning solar
gardener—I've learned a lot I'd like to share.
A Room of Many Uses
Solar greenhouses can be much more than a place to start
spring seedlings. Mine provides such delights as crisp
cucumbers in December, green chard in January, and
succulent Chinese cabbage in February. It also
• protects tender herbs and geraniums over
winter,
• dries mint and such in summer,
• cures harvested onions and garlic,
• yields a fall harvest of potted peppers, tomatoes,
eggplants, cucumbers, and such, and
• easily roots cuttings of grapes, geraniums, and
herbs (I use the loose, moist soil of my large growing bed
for this).
Whatever design you choose for your greenhouse, I heartily
recommend that it include a large growing bed. The soil
will serve as an excellent, moisture-retaining plant home
and will provide mass for absorbing and holding the sun's
warmth.
When we built our greenhouse, we left the growing bed's
foundation open for drainage. We shoveled 3" of gravel into
the bed, and we topped that with a layer of 4"-thick
"books" peeled from bales of spoiled hay. Next came 4" of
decomposing wood chips, 4" of compost, and 8" of loose
garden soil mixed with several large bagfuls of vermiculite
and commercial potting soil.
Each year we add another 2" to 3" layer of compost and
about three quarts of wood ashes to the bed. We dig in
clean, fine-textured kitchen scraps such as coffee and tea
grounds . . . and toss in a few earthworms from time to
time to help digest the scraps, aerate the bed, and add
rich castings.
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