A Very Personal Canoe Paddle
Made properly, it's quite beautiful, strong, lightweight and functional.
July/August 1984
By John Stultz
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This sturdy, beautiful paddle is a joy to use!
MOTHER EARTH NEWS STAFF
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For centuries, the canoe has been an economical, reliable, and swift means of transportation and recreation. Many enthusiasts attribute this long history of service not only to the small boat's durable design but also to its simple method of propulsion: the paddle.
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Not just any paddle, however, will do the job. To generate maximum performance and enjoyment, it must be strong, lightweight, and properly fitted to the individual canoeist. Unfortunately, many mass-produced versions lack the surface area necessary for power. They break under stress, and they aren't nearly as comfortable to use as a customized paddle that conforms perfectly to an individual's height and grip.
Lovely and Lightweight
You can solve these problems by making a quality, personalized paddle. For materials, you'll need only one 1/2-by-6-by-72 inches board of hardwood (such as oak, ash, walnut, or hickory) and one 1/2-by-6-by-72 inches board of softwood (such as poplar, redwood, or Sitka spruce — don't use yellow pine). Almost any lumberyard stocks these woods.
To begin construction, use a band or table saw to cut your two boards into the sizes in the chart in the Image Gallery.
Now, starting with the 1/2-by-1-by-72-inch strip of hardwood at the center, lay the pieces of wood side by side, alternating hardwood and softwood, and on edge, so that the 1-inch width serves as the paddle's thickness. The three 72-inch strips will extend the entire length of the paddle; they'll become the shaft and form the center of both the blade and the grip. The 30-inch strips at the bottom, on either side of the three center strips, will form the rest of the blade, and the 4-inch pieces will make up the grip.
Before you actually position the shortest pieces, however, you must find the correct location for the handle in relation to your height. While standing, measure the distance from your chin or shoulders to the floor. This measurement is approximately the right paddle length for you. If, however, you prefer a longer or shorter paddle (whether you sit or kneel in the canoe can make a difference, for example), feel free to adjust the length accordingly.
Once you've established the total height of the paddle, subtract 27 inches (the length of the finished blade) and measure the remaining distance up from the blade's throat (which is where the shaft meets the blade). At this mark, cut the three strips making up the shaft. Now, to complete the assembly, lay out the strips for the grip, remembering to alternate the different woods.
Before you begin to glue the pieces together, you'll need to find or borrow two clamps for the grip, four for the shaft, and at least three for the blade. The widemouthed style will work perfectly on the blade, while the C-type will hold the other areas. Next, using an ample amount of glue, laminate the strips together and attach the clamps very tightly. When laminating the strips, I've gotten the best results with a waterproof resorcinol adhesive, but it is also the most difficult to use. A phenolic resin glue or an aliphatic glue is a little easier to work with and will also provide excellent strength and adherence.