Quilting with a Modern Slant (Storey Publishing, 2014) offers a glimpse into dozens of unique visions, with profiles of quilters and artists who have developed their own aesthetic and quilting tips and patterns from author Rachel May. Modern quilting offers the freedom to play with fabrics, patterns, colors, stitching and the way in which they all connect. With photographs of finished quilts, quilting tips and tutorials on natural dyeing, machine quilting, appliqué, finishing, improvisational piecing and even starting a blog, this book is chock-full of ideas to inspire quilters of every level. This tutorial from “Chapter 4: Quilting from Tradition,” was co-written by Alice Webb Greer and Rachel May and shows how to quilt by hand.
Hand-Quilting Basics
1. Use tiny needles when you quilt by hand (these are—no surprise—called quilting needles). When hand-quilting with a hoop, leave your fabric a little less tense than when you embroider, so that your needle can move through all three layers several stitches at a time.
2. You can buy special, slightly thicker thread for quilting by hand. (Figure 1 in the slideshow) If you’re new to it, you may want to choose a color that blends with your fabric. Or, try using pearl cotton, which is heavier weight and will draw more attention to your stitches (and will also require a bigger needle).
3. Make a quilter’s knot in your thread by wrapping the thread around your needle three or four times. (Figure 2 in the slideshow)
Pull the needle through until the knot forms. (Figure 3 in the slideshow)
4. Hide your knots like this: push your needle through just the top layer of fabric (not the batting or backing), and then push your needle back out the top, tugging at the thread until the knot “pops” under but doesn’t come out the other side. (Figure 4 in the slideshow) This takes practice. Trim the end of the thread. (Figure 5 in the slideshow)
I machine piece a quilt, then hand quilt it using a frame that I bought...but could be created from scratch...that used PVC piping. I think that it is 2" pipe, and to hold the fabrics in place, I have a pipe that is split down the center, it snaps over the actual frame. It had corner pieces that come off so you can store the frame when it is not in use. I have tried more sophisticated (and expensive) frames, but this is my favorite. I have also found (for me) that using big safety pins to get the fabric pinned together works better than basting or other methods. Then, I find the center of the quilt, put it on the frame, and adjust the pins as needed, if needed.
I machine piece a quilt, then hand quilt it using a frame that I bought...but could be created from scratch...that used PVC piping. I think that it is 2" pipe, and to hold the fabrics in place, I have a pipe that is split down the center, it snaps over the actual frame. It had corner pieces that come off so you can store the frame when it is not in use. I have tried more sophisticated (and expensive) frames, but this is my favorite. I have also found (for me) that using big safety pins to get the fabric pinned together works better than basting or other methods. Then, I find the center of the quilt, put it on the frame, and adjust the pins as needed, if needed. I use the "down the ditch" technique for quilting because I love seeing the pattern appear on the backing fabric.
I machine piece a quilt, then hand quilt it using a frame that I bought...but could be created from scratch...that used PVC piping. I think that it is 2" pipe, and to hold the fabrics in place, I have a pipe that is split down the center, it snaps over the actual frame. It had corner pieces that come off so you can store the frame when it is not in use. I have tried more sophisticated (and expensive) frames, but this is my favorite. I have also found (for me) that using big safety pins to get the fabric pinned together works better than basting or other methods. Then, I find the center of the quilt, put it on the frame, and adjust the pins as needed, if needed.
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