Aji Límo

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Salsa de Aji Límo

Let me begin with two warnings: Always wear rubber gloves when handling hot peppers; and while cooking them, do not breathe the steam or get it in your eyes. Hot peppers contain volatile oils that can burn sensitive skin. Having said that, the intense heat in ‘Aji Límo’ cooks out and mellows. It is one of those rare peppers that when raw is extremely hot, but once cooked it cools down and releases all sorts of intriguing, subtle flavors. The resulting salsa is a bright saffron yellow or rich pumpkin gold, depending on the sweet peppers you use. If you can the salsa in jelly jars as I do, remember that the flavor fades after about six months. You might consider freezing it in small batches, but again, do not keep it for more than six months.

4 ounces fresh ‘Aji Límo’ peppers, seeded and chopped
8 ounces any sweet yellow or orange pepper, seeded
and chopped
2 mangoes, pared, pitted and chopped
1 cup sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons ground ginger
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 cups shallot-flavored vinegar (see note below)
1/2 cup shredded zest of lime

Combine the peppers, mangoes, sugar, salt, ginger, mustard and vinegar in a deep stew pan and cook until the peppers are soft (about 25 minutes). Purée to a smooth batter consistency in a food processor, then return it to the pan. Bring to a gentle boil and skim off the foam. Cook 15 minutes, then add the lime zest. Pour the salsa into hot, sterilized jars and seal, or serve freshly made at room temperature. Yields 5 cups.

Note: Shallot-flavored vinegar is an important ingredient because it imparts a subtle “warm” acidity to many dishes. It is easy to make: Fill a clean wine bottle one-third full of peeled shallots. Add white wine vinegar (about 3 cups). Infuse 10 days before using. Strain out the shallots and return the flavored vinegar to the bottle. Cap and store in a dark, cool place until needed.

HOT HOT PERUVIAN HEAT

The heat of many Andean peppers puts the reputation of habaneros to shame. I describe ‘Aji Límo’ as a Peruvian hand grenade, and I will repeat that warning: This pepper is extremely spicy, but when it’s tempered by cooking in sweet-flavored salsas, the lemony taste is dynamite.

You can use the salsa on just about anything. With grilled fish, the pepper has no equal; as an ingredient in ceviche (a cold dish of raw fish or shellfish “cooked” in lime juice), it is a natural match. When I have a group of South American friends over for a meal, they head straight for my salsa de ‘Aji Límo.’ It reminds them of home, and they beg me for jars of it.

I have been told I should patent the salsa recipe and sell it. But my basic recipe came from Peru, and how could I contemplate patenting one of their national treasures? ‘Aji Límo’ is a gift of the Andes.

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