Beginner's Guide to Fertile Soil and Raised Garden Beds
May/June 2007
Alison Rogers, Mother Earth News
 |
Jessica Click
|
Healthy soil is a critical component of any successful garden.
By establishing a permanent garden layout in which beds and walking
paths remain in place, from year to year, you can minimize soil
compaction and create a great garden that's healthy and easy to
maintain. Soil needs air and water to function, and compaction from
foot traffic robs it of both.
RELATED ARTICLES
Permanent beds make gardening easier and soil healthier. Includes annually adding compost, building...
This year’s Grow-Off, Show-Off kitchen garden winners work hard promoting nutrition and building vi...
Rather than planting your garden in traditional rows, many experts recommend planting crops in wide...
GARDEN & YARD - MOTHER'S FALL GUIDE TO PLANTING THE GARDEN, LAWN, AND ORCHARD October/November 1995...
Permanent beds can be any size or shape, as long as you can
reach into the center while standing in the paths. Edging is
optional, although many gardeners like the look of borders such as
logs, boards or stones.
Raised beds are a good idea for sites with clay soil or
areas with poor drainage. Gardeners who want to extend their
growing season to early spring and late fall also benefit from the
warming effect produced by raised beds.
Your new permanent garden structure will naturally raise the
beds a little higher than the compacted soil of the paths, but you
can till the paths and shovel the loose soil onto the beds to raise
them even more. Note that your plants will require more water
during dry periods if you add more than a few extra inches of
soil.
To get started, try one of these three simple bed-building
techniques:
Plan A: Till, compost, till. First till the
area to kill the grass, then add a few inches of compost or grass
clippings and till again. There's bound to be remaining weed seeds
in the mix; you can eliminate them by watering the area, then
hoeing sprouts as they appear after a week or two. If possible,
repeat the water/hoe sequence several times prior to planting.
Plan B: No till. Prep the garden area simply by
covering it with cardboard or a few layers of wet newspaper under
several inches of grass clippings, leaves, or hay or straw. You can
cut holes in the mulch and set out transplants with a little
organic fertilizer immediately. You'll want to wait several months
to plant seeds, however, to allow the sod to die and the paper to
decompose. (For more information on alternatives to tilling, read
'21st Century Homesteading: Build Better Garden Soil,' April/May
2007.)