COLD FRAME GARDENING
(Page 2 of 6)
Secure one of the long sides of the cover by sandwiching
the plastic between some nailer strips and the frame
itself. This side will not have to be removed until the
entire cover is put away after all danger of frost has
passed. The other long side and the ends are arranged for
ventilation, which can be achieved by turning back one of
the long sides (a necessary step anyway when you wish to
work in the garden). This "mobile" side should be secured
to an opening wand, which is made of 1" x 2" overlapping
furring strips that have been clasp-nailed together to make
a continuous length of 24 feet.
RELATED CONTENT
Cell phone apps feature range of garden themes, from seed starting to virtual tours...
Planting in a bag can take some of the back-breaking work out of gardening...
Use graywater from your kitchen sink to water your vegetable garden with this simple irrigation sys...
IRRIGATION: POND, SIPHON, AND DRAINPIPE CONSCIOUSNESS July/August 1977 by DAVID HAENKE: Dear friend...
The six beginner's kits can help you determine if a drip system will improve your garden yield, inc...
Again, the plastic should be sandwiched between nailer
strips (scrap lath, screen molding, etc.) and the opening
wand so that the nail heads do not rip through the plastic.
The cold frame can be opened entirely simply by rolling up
the plastic onto the opening wand, which is then placed on
the opposite or fixed side of the frame. But
actually—no matter how hot the weather gets—the
plastic hardly needs to be completely rolled back. Instead,
it can be rolled up halfway, so it is sitting on top of the
hoops, secured by placing the ends of the furring-strip
wand into notched vertical 2 x 4s that have been nailed to
the end of the frame. (The bottom of the notches are at the
same height as the top of the hoops.)
End ventilation, which is almost always sufficient, is even
easier. The ends are normally kept loosely rolled in a
spare four-foot wooden piece sitting on the ground. To
ventilate, just unroll the plastic from the piece of wood,
roll it back up on itself, secure it with a clip or stuff
it between the last metal hoop and the vertical support
member. With both ends open you get good cross-ventilation.
No matter how high the winds or how fierce the spring rains
and snow, this cold frame sits proudly. Most snow simply
slides off as it falls, and any that attempts to accumulate
soon melts away from the heat radiated by the dark soil
within. Moreover, the whole thing is really cheap,
averaging out at less than $10 per year.
Setting Up and Managing a Cold Frame
I always set up and plant the garden in the second half of
March. Because my soil is so black, it is free of snow and
has thawed out long before the surrounding area. I wait for
one of those unusually warm days that we sometimes get in
this area at the end of the winter when it is a joy to be
working outside. (One March, I went cross-country skiing in
a park just 30 miles from here in the morning and planted
my garden the same afternoon.) With all materials on hand,
I can construct the cold frame and plant the entire garden
in a long afternoon.
Page:
<< Previous 1 | 2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
Next >>