THE HANDMADE DOOR

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For optional strength, you can duplicate the batten pattern on the blank side. Remember, however, that this will add to the finished weight; are your hinges large enough to carry it? Check the dimensions one final time, bevel all outer edges slightly, and hang the door. If you've built double doors, affix an astragal on the one you'll be closing last, to seal off the meeting point

The Layered Door

A LAYERED DOOR (see drawing above, with three full thicknesses of wood, is much stronger than a batten door, but it's also heavier. Advantages include incredible rigidity and resistance to warping, and the ability to incorporate artistic flourishes such as diagonal outer layers. Unlike a batten door, a layered door can have a window.

However, this door will not only be heavier than a cow, it will also be thicker than standard. And unless you make other arrangements, the plywood end-grain will show on the edges, uglifying it. You'll either have to extend the outer layers beyond the core and employ a fillet, or place a covering band around the entire perimeter. With such a band, all three layers of the rough door must measure 3/4" smaller in height and width than the finished opening.

Cut the plywood to fit the opening, minus the 3/4" (or fillet width, and apply the first outer layer of boards. Here you can use glue, preferably waterproof construction adhesive in tubes. And you won't have to worry so much about nail length; in fact, you want the nail points to come through about half an inch, because you'll clinch them over. When you affix the exterior layer to the other side, the nail points won't project. If you don't want any nails to show, blind-nail them: Drive the nails at an angle into the tongue and countersink slightly. The groove of the next board will hide the nails. Glue and clamp the fillets into place; or nail on a covering band.

After the glue has set, mark out a window opening if desired. Install it, and you're ready to hang this door.

The Joined Door

WHEN PROPERLY BUILT, a joined door (see drawing above constructed of 2" nominal-size lumber fastened internally by threaded rods looks the least homemade. It's particularly suited to openings in stone or concrete, the kind you find in a castle or dungeon. But this type requires more advanced tools and skills; unless you're a genius with a plane and hand drill, you'll need a joiner to dress the edges and a drill press to bore the holes through which the threaded rods will pass. You'll also need four bar clamps.

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