I BUILT MY OWN WATER TOWER
Author recalls experience of erecting water tower, including materials, decisions, the tower, the upper platform, diagrams.
by RICHARD HILTON
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Maybe there's still some city dweller left in me, or
perhaps I've just grown too accustomed to the conveniences
of modern-day American life . . . but if there's one thing
my year-round living quarters must have, it's
running water. Thus, when I finally built my
long-dreamed-of log cabin in Virginia—off in the
woods, with no electricity—I resolved that the
dwelling would be equipped with certain luxuries. Namely, a
shower, a flush toilet, and a sink tap that really worked!
Now that didn't seem to me to be much to ask . . . but
after giving the problem some thought, I found that I wasn't
at all sure just where my precious water system's
pressure was going to come from. Initially, I
figured that a storage tank (which could easily be refilled
by a little gasoline engine-driven pump) perched in the
cabin's loft would probably handle the job satisfactorily.
When I imagined what the inevitable leak in that tank would
do to my dwelling's living area, however, I scrapped
that idea fast!
The solution to my dilemma turned out to be a 375-gallon
steel tank mounted atop a 15-foot-high platform at the edge
of the clearing outside my cabin (see Fig. 1). The weight
of the water stored in this elevated container produces
about six pounds of static pressure in the cabin's water
lines. This is less than the pressure supplied by most city
systems and electric pumps . . . but is enough so that my
shower delivers a pleasant, gentle spray and my toilet's
flush tank refills without any annoying hiss.
In short, I've had nothing but success with my make-do
water system . . . and I'd like nothing better than to tell
you how you can construct your own version of the
Hilton Homestead Water Tower.
MATERIALS
Start by obtaining a galvanized steel tank—the kind
with a pipe fitting in the bottom and a conical lid on
top—through one of the farm catalogs for around $140
(at least that's what I paid for mine three years ago).
This will be the most costly part of your system.
By the way, as you flip through those farm catalogs, you
may notice a listing or two for redwood tanks (which are
often less expensive than steel). You should realize,
however, that such containers have two drawbacks: First, if
one is allowed to dry out it can develop permanent leaks.
Second—and I consider this point to be even more
important—if you purchase such a unit you'll be
supporting the rather unsavory crowd that is currently
making a fast buck by massacring our nation's dwindling
supply of redwoods. So buy a steel tank.
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