A $100 Industrial-quality Band Saw

Enlarge Image Image Gallery [1]The band saw's plywood housing swings away to allow servicing of the components inside. [2] In this photo of the variable- speed drive mechanism, the motor belt is routed to the jack shaft for low speed metal cutting. [3] Ad just able bearings position and support the blade. [4] This homemade band saw is able to handle material of much greater thickness than can most commercial models.

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You can make this important addition to any workshop . . . and do so on a recycler's budget.

Without a doubt, the handiest, most accurate tool for cutting straight lines or curves in wood or metal is the band saw. Unfortunately, the cost of one of these fine tools is much too expensive for many home crafts people. For example, when I finally decided I couldn't do without one any longer, a model with a 12" throat (able to accept material 12" wide) and metal-cutting speed reduction was going for $500 at Sears, Roebuck and Company. Oh, I did manage to find one 12" model made out of plastic for only $150, but a close inspection showed me that the low-grade machine really wasn't any more than a toy and wouldn't be able to handle metal cutting or any serious woodcutting. At that point, I decided that I was simply going to have to design and build my own band saw.

The tool I ended up with has proved itself capable of cutting wood or metal as easily as do many industrial models I've seen. It has a full 24" throat . . . an upper blade guide that can be adjusted to accommodate material 7" thick . . . and a worktable that tilts to 45 ° for angled cuts. What's more, eight speeds are available (a quick-change system makes it possible to switch blades and speeds in less than three minutes), and its 148 "-long blade will outlast those found on smaller band saws.

Although all of the machine work required to build this quality saw could be done with an electric drill and a hacksaw, a cutting torch will make the trimming easier and quicker. In any event, the metal parts do have to be welded together, so-at some point-you'll either have to supply your own fusing equipment and expertise or find someone to do that job for you. (One good source of welding help is a local high school vocational department. The people at such facilities are often desperate to work on stimulating, functional projects.)

I've never believed in skimping on quality, so all of the parts in my saw are made of the finest materials . .. acquired locally from a steel recycling center and an auto salvage yard. The angle iron and sheet steel were end pieces from larger chunks of material. Such small bits aren't saved by manufacturing shops but are ideal for home shop projects. Therefore, a little searching should turn up a good supply of these odds and ends, and the can't-be-beat price should be the yard's rate per pound of scrap.

The heart of this (or any) band saw is the wheels that the blade rolls on. Mine came from a local auto junkyard, in the form of two spindles (with bearings), two wheels, and a pair of bald tires . . . all from Germany's finest, the Volkswagen Beetle. Should your recycling tendencies show a streak of nationalism, you could use other brands of wheels: I chose the VW units because of their large diameter and narrow width. Whatever your preference in resurrected road runners, pick one tire that's fairly bald with a rounded tread for the saw's upper wheel and one that's worn flat (and, again, mostly bald) for the lower unit. Both types of tires ought to be abundant at the junkyard, and will be sure to be low-priced. These high-quality wheel assemblies should last a lifetime on a band saw, too, since there will be almost no load on them (compared with that of hauling the VW around).

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