Guide to Creating Free Heat from Recycled Oil

Bill Cheney describes how he saved money by recycling a condemned bottled-gas cylinder fueled with free old crankcase oil to build a stove that creates free heat for his shop.

| September/October 1970

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    BURNER AND BLOWER ASSEMBLY is bracketed to a converted bottled-gas cylinder, ready to be connected to a fuel line. Rheostat (below bracket) regulates blower motor. Rear of stove (right) needs damper if gas is burned instead of oil. Disk is 1/8 inch steel plate, 1inch smaller in diameter than exhaust pipe; shaft is 1/2 inch steel rod. Platform welded on top of stove is optional.
    Photo by Popular Science
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    Diagram: how to create an oil burning stove using a bottled-gas cylinder.
    Photo by Popular Science
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    Diagram: parts of an oil burning stove.
    Photo by Popular Science
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    THREE INTERCHANGEABLE JETS (for different fuels) slip through bored plug and deflector made from bushing, as in insert. Braze blades at 15-degree angle from axis.
    Photo by Popular Science
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    Wouldn't it be nice if you could find some way to heat the thing free . . . And wouldn't it be even nicer to get paid for keeping warm?
    Photo by Popular Science
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    DRILLING DISCHARGE HOLES in closed end of oil jet is a critical operation. Sharp edges are essential for clean burning. Be sure drill runs true at high speeds; don't hold jet in fingers.
    Photo by Popular Science

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Reprinted with permission from Popular Science. 

So you got the dome up this summer and it shot your entire budget. You've already moved in, but winter's comin' on and you have no idea how you're gonna keep warm. Wouldn't it be nice if you could find some way to heat the thing free . . . And wouldn't it be even nicer to get paid for keeping warm?

Yes, indeed. And you can do it too. Bill Cheney does. Although bill heats a shop and not a home with the rig described in this article, there's no reason why it can't see you through that first homesteading winter . . . Or more.

Naturally, MOTHER EARTH NEWS advises that you follow construction drawings exactly and observe proper precautions when using your heater.
 

The fuel I burn to heat my shop doesn't cost me a penny. In fact, I'm paid a buck for every 100 gallons I haul away. It's old crankcase oil, and gas stations are happy to have me pump it out of their waste tanks.

I built my own stove from a condemned bottled-gas cylinder. You can pick one up for peanuts because legally they can't be used again, and it's too costly to cut them up for scrap. If you can't get one, a 30, 50, or 100 gallon steel drum can be substituted. My stove cylinder is 14 inch by 40 inch, but these dimensions aren't critical. The ones for the throat and firing port are, since they guarantee the hot throat that's required to burn any fuel. I circulate the heat with a small electric fan, and there's plenty to spread around: With clean oil, the heater can produce up to 500,000 BTUs per hour.



It's clean heat, too, although some smoke is generated when the burner is first started. To carry this (and all carbon monoxide fumes) outside, a stack is required. Where erecting one is impractical, you can burn natural or bottled gas, instead. You just insert a different jet nozzle. When burning gas fuels, I exhaust right into the shop; there's some water vapor, but not enough to cause troublesome condensation. Better check local regulations, though. If they specify a stack for gas, too, you might as well enjoy the economy of crankcase oil.

Start with the stove. If you've been able to pick up an old bottled-gas cylinder, you must prepare it in a special way. Set the tank upright on its base and fill it with water. Lay out an 8 inch circle at the crown of the domed top. Using a cutting torch, pierce the tank with a short arc cut out on this circle. (As the cut will be below water line, water will flow out until level with it.) Complete the circle and drain the tank.






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