DIY







Common Winter Beekeeping Problems

From pests and diseases to large predators, here are several solutions to common winter beekeeping problems.

| January 7, 2013

Keeping Bees in Towns and Cities (Timber Press, 2012) by Luke Dixon features everything an urbanite needs to know to start keeping bees: How to select the perfect hive, how to buy bees, how to care for a colony, how to harvest honey and what to do in the winter. Urban beekeeping has particular challenges, and this book highlights the difficulties and presents practices that are safe, legal and neighbor-friendly. Learn how to safeguard your hives from common winter beekeeping problems in this excerpt taken from the book. 

You can purchase this book from the MOTHER EARTH NEWS store: Keeping Bees in Towns and Cities.

“The months will be long and cold, and it may seem that you will never see your bees again.”

As the days begin to draw in and the colony reduces in size, it is time to prepare for winter. Eventually the bees will huddle down in a cluster to keep themselves, and their queen, warm during the winter months. The temperature inside the hive will drop to about 20°C and the cluster will move around the hive to feed on its stores of honey. If you have taken it all from them, then you will have to give them something as a replacement—sugar in the form of fondant, the thick white paste that is spread on cakes and buns. A local baker will often supply it, or you can purchase it from beekeeping suppliers in plastic bags. Just cut a hole in the bag and place it over the hole in the hive’s crown board. The bees can come up and remove fondant from the bag and take it down to the cluster. Not nearly as good as honey, of course, but the bees will need it if there is not enough honey in the brood box to keep them going.



Common Winter Beekeeping Problems: Pests and Diseases

Now is the time to think about disease and pests, though an eye must be kept out for them throughout the year. The varroa mite is a tiny creature, the size of a pinhead, that invades a hive, multiplies in the brood, and lives on the thorax of the bee. The Asiatic honey bee evolved with this parasite and so is able to cope with the mite in its hive. But the varroa mite arrived in the homes of the European honey bee with devastating effect. Any beekeeper now has to be alert to keep varroa out of their hives.

Hives have been redesigned to help in this, with mesh floors through which the mite will drop if knocked off the bees. Unable to climb back into the hive, the mites can be collected on a tray under the mesh floor so that you can see how much of a problem you have. The little brown shiny creatures will glisten, like tiny pinhead-sized conkers, amongst all the other debris from the hive that has fallen through. There are various ways to kill them and to help the bees to remove them from the hive. There are chemical treatments, or you can dust the frames of bees with finely ground sugar and that will help dislodge them and make it easier for the bees to knock them off themselves.

magwa999
11/5/2014 8:40:41 AM

Not sure how many actual beekeepers are in here. The screened bottom boards and the organic pulverized sugar are one of the best ways to fight off the mite. I have no mites and from doing beekeeping for many years do not give my bees any chemicals what so ever. Letting the bees keep to themselves and leaving 100 lbs of honey for each hive I have had no problems. I do not split my hives but let the bees swarm when they need to. Bees are not the best pollinators and the queen is not a captive but a queen. It is a natural function of the bees to produce honey and thrive in the wild. Bumblebees are one of the top pollinators and have become more and more used by growers. The complaints here about the article should be more about the pesticides killing the bees and not the bees themselves. Unless you are a beekeeper and have done some research you should listen with your ears open and not your mouth with your ears shut. Bee Happy


ROBERTK
10/23/2013 5:25:42 PM

An easy way to keep mice out of the hives over winter is to take a 1/2 inch mesh and roll it around a 3/4 inch dowel. Then 90 degree the rest. Looks kind of like a letter d with the lower circle open. The curve goes into the inside of the hive entrance. The bend in the mesh keeps the mice out. Make sure the wire mesh goes all the way across the entrance. As for powder sugar it doesn't actually work very well. It works when the hive is broodless. During the season it's practically worthless. Also, powder sugar contaminates the honey so only do this when the honey flows are over. A more efficient way to control mites is drone trapping. If you don't know what this is you should research it. I do this every year and have minimal mite levels. As for wintering. The hive should have low mite counts by the middle of August, food stores, lots of bees, and the brood should still be reared. The queen needs to be laying here in southeaster Pa late August into September and later. These are our winter bees. October 15 is our frost date and we need the bees who didn't fly to be our winter bees. These are the ones that make through the winter. The flying bees won't survive through the winter. Lastly, for the winter make sure you have the top cover slightly propped up (about 3/8 inch) for air flow. If not you'll find a hive of dead, wet bees in the spring. Right now I'm feeding my 45+ hives. It's expensive, but with all the building in my community there is minimal fall feed for them. So, sugar syrup made from white table sugar is used. Good luck keeping your hives alive over winter


earthcitizen
5/30/2013 10:15:32 PM

@Lorraine: I'm vegan, so I don't eat any of the animals you've listed. As for the issue of native vs non-native species, European Honeybees are an invasive non-native species, which is doing great harm to native pollinator species, whereas mice are not. Further, the author isn't referring to mice in his pantry as 'pests', but rather mice (and other native animal species) in their natural environment.







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