Eight Tips for Milling Rough Lumber

With these simple tips for successfully milling rough lumber, you can turn inexpensive wood into the raw material you need to build beautiful wood projects.

| October 4, 2010

  • Wood Buying Bucks
    Get the best yield from the least-expensive wood.
    COVER: FOX CHAPEL PUBLISHING
  • Milled Wood
    First cut off the ends of the boards to get rid of any cracks (also called end checks).
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Rest Boards
    To make pieces dead flat, let the boards rest before taking them down to final thickness.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Wood Grain
    Being certain that your boards are truly flat, straight and square is the foundation you need to make accurate cuts, lay out precise joints and glue boards together without gaps.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Chalk Outline
    It's better to cute a big roughsawn board into individual pieces, one for each part on your cutting list, more or less, and then start milling.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Mark Grain
    Mark the grain direction on the board's end so you know to "start the cut here" on the nearest face.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Twisted Board
    If your rough lumber is only slightly twisted, it may remain perfectly stable after it's milled.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Skip Plane
    Sometimes it's difficult to read the grain, spot defects or figure out where the sapwood lies in a roughsawn board. If you're stumped, run the entire board through the planer — just enough to remove the high spots and skip over the low spots.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Follow Grain
    When you have a board with a grain that run off the edge of the in a bad way, cut a new edge, while the board is still rough, that more truly follows the grain.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON
  • Crosscutting Tools
    The author's favorite tolls for crosscutting are a jigsaw, a circular saw and a Japanese tree-trimming saw.
    RAMON MORENO; ART DIRECTION: VERN JOHNSON

  • Wood Buying Bucks
  • Milled Wood
  • Rest Boards
  • Wood Grain
  • Chalk Outline
  • Mark Grain
  • Twisted Board
  • Skip Plane
  • Follow Grain
  • Crosscutting Tools

The following is an excerpt from Getting the Most from your Wood-Buying Bucks from American Woodworker (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2010). Along with detailing the most economical way to buy and process lumber, Getting the Most from your Wood-Buying Bucks provides a variety of tips, techniques and general wood know-how. This excerpt is from Chapter 2, "Sawing & Milling Great Wood." 

 Transforming a long, gnarly plank of rough lumber into a set of perfectly milled boards is immensely satisfying. Not only do you save money, but you become intimate with the character of every precious piece of wood. The biggest benefit, however, is being absolutely certain that your boards are truly flat, straight and square. That’s the solid foundation you need to make accurate cuts, lay out precise joints and glue boards together without gaps. Here are some helpful pointers to build that foundation.

Cut Off the Ends First

Cracks in a board’s ends are a common flaw. Cut them off before you do any other crosscutting, so you know the true, usable length of your board. These cracks are also called end checks. Large checks are easy to see and remove, but you may also find hairline cracks that aren’t easily visible on the board’s surface or end.

I cut off the end of a board a little bit at a time, like slicing a loaf of bread. The slices are about 1/4 inch thick. As each slice falls off, I inspect it for checks. If the slice breaks very easily across the grain, it probably contains a hairline check.



Let Boards Rest

To make pieces dead flat, I usually let boards rest before taking them down to final thickness. I plane boards 1/8 inch thicker than needed and stack them with stickers or stand them on edge so air can circulate around every side.

After the boards rest for a day or so, I check each board for flatness by laying it on my tablesaw or jointer. It’s not unusual to find that some previously flat boards have cupped or twisted a bit. I rejoint one side of these boards, then plane every board to final thickness.

daltxguy
3/9/2012 10:35:56 PM

I think the heading of this article should be changed. When I see 'milling rough lumber', what I would expect is an article on how to mill logs into rough lumber. However, this article is about starting with rough sawn lumber to create finished sizes for woodworking projects.


daltxguy
3/9/2012 10:30:01 PM

Jointing here means truing an edge or a face.


FRANK WOOLF
3/8/2012 12:31:57 AM

Can somebody explain what jointing means in this article? I am English so jointing to me means joining two pieces of wood together or making a joint to joint them. This does not seem to be the case with this article.







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