Hand Sewing the Herringbone Stitch

Add detail to your next sewing project with one of the beautiful variations of the Herringbone stitch.


By Natalie Chanin
August 2018

sewing-geometry
Cover courtesy of Abrams

The Geometry of Hand-Sewing (Abrams, 2017) by Natalie Chanin embraces traditional hand-sewing while simplifying elaborate and ornate stitches with the help of stitching cards included in the book. Chanin is the director of Alabama Chanin and the author four additional sewing and style books. The following excerpt details variations of the herringbone stitch.

herringbone-1
Displayed in order from left to right is the Double Herringbone, the Woven Double Herringbone, the Whipped Herringbone, the Laced Herringbone, the Threaded Herringbone, the Looped and Threaded Herringbone, and the Knotted Herringbone. (Photo by Abraham Rowe and Rinne Allen).



Double Herringbone

The Double Herringbone is worked as a single row of Herringbone Stitch and then filled in between the first row of stitches with a second pass.

double-herringbone
Illustration by Sun Young Park

Woven Double Herringbone

The Woven Double Herringbone is created by weaving the second pass under one leg of your first row of stiches and over the second leg, alternating over and under as you sew.

woven-double
Illustration by Sun Young Park



Whipped Herringbone

The Whipped Herringbone (also known as Tied Herringbone) uses a small Parallel Whipstitch to tie each of the crossed stitches together and secure them to the fabric. Parallel Whipstitch is often worked in a second pass.

whipped-herringbone
Illustration by Sun Young Park

Laced Herringbone

The Laced Herringbone is created with a second thread that passes behind each of the crossed threads. It can be added to single or multiple rows of Herringbone Stitch.

laced-herringbone
Illustration by Sun Young Park

Threaded Herringbone

The Threaded Herringbone, in its most simple version, is created when a thread or yarn is threaded under and over each of the crosses in a row of stitches.



threaded-herringbone
Illustration by Sun Young Park

Looped And Threaded Herringbone

The Looped And Threaded Herringbone is created by threading and looping around each of the crosses in a row of stitches.

looped-threaded
Illustration by Sun Young Park

Knotted Herringbone

In Knotted Herringbone, the crossed stitches are knotted together — not stitched through the fabric — using a looped stitch method like Coral Stitch. This stitch is often worked in two colors to highlight the added detail.

knotted-herringbone
Illustration by Sun Young Park

Whipped Herringbone

The Whipped Herringbone (also known as Tied Herringbone) uses a small Parallel Whipstitch to tie each of the crossed stitches together and secure them to the fabric. Parallel Whipstitch is often worked in a second color to highlight the added detail. 

whipped-herringbone
Illustration by Sun Young Park


Reprinted with permission from The Geometry of Hand-Sewing by Natalie Chanin ND and published by Abrams, 2017.




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