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Geothermal Heat Pumps: How We Installed Our Green Alternative to Fuel Oil Heating, Part 3

Geothermal Water Furnace 

Geothermal Water Furnace. Photo by Allison Ehrman

This is part three of a three article series on geothermal heat pumps. Part one can be found here and part two can be found here.

Living with a geothermal system has been great so far. We only ended up using the cooling function for two days before autumn arrived in our part of the country, so I may revisit this topic again in an article next summer. But other than dealing with a torn-up yard as winter settles in, we’ve been very happy with the end results.

Our geothermal company sent a representative to our home several days after installation to teach us how to use the system. As tech-savvy as my husband and I are, I didn’t really think this was necessary, but it turns out there were a few things we still needed to learn in order to maximize the furnace’s efficiency. Anyone who buys a home with an existing geothermal heat pump or installs a new one should find an expert to demonstrate how that specific setup is meant to be used. 

At our old home, we allowed the indoor temperature during the winter to get down to 55 degrees at night and kept it at 68 during the day. But geothermal heat pumps generally come with an auxiliary “emergency” heat generator to supplement the main furnace’s heat on extremely cold days or to kick on if the system fails for some reason. Large temperature fluctuations also cause the emergency heat to run because the system is trying to play catch up, and emergency heat consumes much more energy and is therefore much more expensive than regular geothermal heat. Our thermostat automatically triggers the emergency heat if a temperature change of more than 2-4 degrees is suddenly required (we’ve since set the default to 4 degrees). So we now keep our thermostat at 70 during the day and 68 at night. We were keeping it at 72 during the day and 70 at night, but it was just too warm. The highest daily bill we’ve seen so far has been $3, but it’s only been getting down to just below freezing outside. We may adjust it to be cooler inside as winter really settles in. 

Another difference is that our system has a variable speed compressor. This means we can control how fast the cool or warm air comes out of the vents around the house. When the system was first installed, the company had the speed cranked up as high as it would go. I found the increased “whooshy” noise a little annoying and didn’t feel that we needed to be blasted by conditioned air in every room. A simple change reduced the flow back to normal. But I can see how such an option could come in handy some days. 

Although it isn’t noticeable this time of year, I know we will also enjoy not hearing the drone of an outdoor AC unit during the warm months. A geothermal pump doesn’t have an outdoor compressor and is just as silent in the summer as it is in the winter. Since the old unit was situated between our deck and patio, this will be a wonderful change. 

And the system can be set to automatically switch from heat mode to cooling mode, which is convenient for those times of the year when the weather is in transition.

Lastly, geothermal is also helping to heat our hot water. I can’t tell a difference at all, but I do feel less guilty when I stand a little longer under the shower on sleepy mornings, especially when I remember all the flood rain our well received this summer. The expert from the geothermal company did tell us that we may want to consider switching off the hot water option when outdoor temperatures get very low because using it at such times can also help trigger the emergency heat. So we’ll be keeping an eye on that as well. Luckily, our smart thermostat makes monitoring and controlling everything quite simple. 

Water Furnace Thermostat

Water Furnace thermostat. Photo by Allison Ehrman

All in all, I highly recommend geothermal heat pumps as a green alternative, especially if you find yourself in the market for a new system. Current rebate incentives make the price comparable to traditional systems, and the cost and energy savings can’t be beat. As for the comfort they provide, I really don’t mind not having to wear three layers of clothes in my home at night while still using less energy for heat each month. 

If you live in Northern Maryland and are looking for a reliable geothermal company, I recommend the services of Ground Loop, Inc.

Allison Ehrman works in the corporate world, but her heart and soul reside in her Northern Maryland country home, where she and her husband grow and preserve herbs and vegetables, prepare exotic dishes from locally-sourced foods and craft natural body care products. You can read more of her Mother Earth News articles here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

Geothermal Heat Pumps: How We Installed Our Green Alternative to Fuel Oil Heating, Part 2

Vertical ground loops. 

Installing horizontal ground loops. Photo by Steve Ehrman.

This is part two in a three article series on geothermal heat pumps. Part one can be found here.

Our geothermal installation took five days and was followed by an inspection and training session. The amount of time and effort involved in setting up a new system varies, depending on the location of your existing heating and cooling units in relation to where the ground loops enter your house, and on the location and configuration of your ductwork, electric wiring, and hot water heater.

Day 1

We awoke early in the morning as the ground loop installation crew arrived. A large flatbed trailer parked in front of our home, carrying an excavator and a compact track loader. This day’s work consisted of digging the horizontal trenches for the ground loops, laying the loops, replacing the removed soil, and running the loops into the back of the house.

In total, our Water Furnace required four 150-foot horizontal trenches, each five feet deep. These were joined at the end of our yard by a “header” which routes the water/antifreeze mixture from the house through each of the loops in parallel and then sends the heated or cooled mixture back to the house.

It was a little disturbing watching our entire back yard being dug up so quickly, but we were excited and took more photos and videos than was probably necessary. We had been told by a neighbor that he had been present during the original construction of our home and had never seen such rocky soil in his life. So we were a bit nervous that the condition of the ground would add extra time and expense to this portion of the installation, especially since our contract stated that this could be a possibility. Luckily, the large excavator easily handled the stones and the workmen said our yard wasn’t anything out of the ordinary.

By the end of the day all of the loops were in place, along with the header, and they had been filled with pressurized air and left for the weekend to make sure there were no leaks.

Day 2

The crew returned early on Monday and began by confirming that the ground loops had maintained pressure. This day consisted mostly of removing our existing heating and cooling systems and beginning to make alterations to the ductwork to accommodate the new unit. Our home was built in 1977 and the positioning of some of the ducts in the utility room had us scratching our heads because one glance was enough to see that they were inefficiently and poorly placed. Our geothermal company reconfigured the ductwork nearest the location of the new furnace at no additional charge.

If you are replacing an oil tank, you will need to check with your geothermal company to see if they will remove and dispose of it. Our company did not provide this service, but that wasn’t a problem for us since the previous owners had completed that process already. Our company did, however, remove and dispose of the interior furnace and the exterior air conditioning unit. This was probably the noisiest day of work inside the house, and the workers opened the windows and doors to the basement while we set up fans to help remove the smell of oil from the old furnace. I can’t tell you how glad I was to see that old system go.

Day 3

The third day was spent installing the new Water Furnace, connecting it to the header for the ground loops, and beginning electrical updates. Our setup consists of a Geolink variable flow center which pumps the water/antifreeze solution through the ground loops to and from the 5 Series Water Furnace. The furnace uses a compressor to heat and cool the house and also sends supplemental hot water through a separate loop to our water heater using a desuperheater (DSH) generator. A Little Giant pump removes any water that condenses during the heating and cooling cycle, sending it out into our yard through a drain pipe. It is all controlled through a Water Furnace color touchscreen thermostat which was installed in place of our old thermostat and provides us with information on temperature, humidity, furnace and fan settings, and real-time cost and energy savings calculated by entering local electricity costs.

Day 4

The big day had finally arrived! It was now time to fill the loops with water and ethanol and finish the electrical and duct connection. When I got home from work that afternoon the installation crew had already left for the day and my mind was preoccupied with other matters. As I stepped into the house, my first thought was, “Geeze! Why is it so cold in here?!” Then it hit me. The Water Furnace was running and the icy cold air rushing through the vents was being cooled by the ground loops in our own yard. Nothing beats the satisfaction of knowing you’ve made your home more comfortable and more efficient.

 Digging ground loop trenches.

Refilling and smoothing the ground loop trenches. Photo by Allison Ehrman.

Day 5

The final task of installation consisted solely of running heated water from the Water Furnace to our existing hot water heater. This took a full day’s work in our home because our water heater is on the opposite side of the basement from the furnace room. The geothermal company ran pipes from the furnace to our existing 17-year-old water heater, and connected them via a valve at the bottom of the tank. This plain water is warmed in the DSH and is completely separate from the closed outdoor loops. This function was optional with our installation, and only serves to supplement the hot water heater when there is a surplus of heat from the geothermal system.

By the end of day five, the system was completely in place and running. And due to a timely weather transition, we went from cooling our house with geothermal the day before to heating it with the same system the following day. 


A week after the work was complete, the county sent an inspector to take a look at the installation. This was a very brief walk-through, as the geothermal company had taken care of all required permits throughout the entire process. The company also sent an expert to our house to train us on using the new system, which is a critical step for getting the most in energy and cost savings from the setup. I will go into our experience managing and living with geothermal in the upcoming third article of this series.

If you live in Northern Maryland and are looking for a reliable geothermal company, I recommend the services of Ground Loop, Inc.

Allison Ehrman works in the corporate world, but her heart and soul reside in her Northern Maryland country home, where she and her husband grow and preserve herbs and vegetables, prepare exotic dishes from locally-sourced foods and craft natural body care products. You can read more of her Mother Earth News articles here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

How I Prepare My Smart Home for a Hurricane

Hurricane home 1

As a resident of South Carolina, my fall pastime these last few years has become evacuating for hurricanes. In 2016, it was Matthew, then came Irma, and this year, as the wrath of Hurricane Florence barreled towards the Carolinas, I packed up my family once again and headed for safety.

The hardest part about evacuating is leaving your home and all your possessions behind to an unknown fate. But I have a “smart home.” It’s in these times of emergency that the connected technology I’ve installed throughout my home has really proven its worth — beyond the everyday conveniences, added security, and fun features these Internet-of-Things devices already offered us.

In fact, smart home technology can help in many ways before, during and after any natural disaster. Chief among these is to provide peace of mind, or, if the worse does happen, the ability to know about and act on a problem even if you’re hundreds of miles away.

With a connected home, you can check in remotely from wherever you are. During an event like a hurricane, as long as the power stays up (and in some cases even when it’s out), you can get notified if there’s fire, smoke, water, carbon monoxide or other dangerous pollutants swirling around in your home, keep an eye on your property and neighborhood, and even give someone access to the house if there is an emergency. Plus, you can know what that problem is while there’s still time to mitigate it, not weeks later when the damage could be catastrophic.

Today, part of my pre-evacuation checklist includes prepping my smart home to make sure it can keep me connected and informed during and after the disaster. Here’s what I did prior to Florence’s arrival.

Set My Smart Thermostat to Eco Mode

Smart thermostats can be controlled remotely, but before I leave, I manually set my thermostat to “eco mode” — which keeps the home’s climate within two set points (62 and 84 degrees). This saves money on the power bill, and it also helps keep pressure off the electrical grid, which can be strained in times of disaster.

Hurricane home 2

I also have an air-quality monitor, which alerts me if the humidity is going above a certain level and automatically turns the system back on to deal with it, helping keep the air in my home healthy and mold-free. It also alerts me if there are high levels of pollutants in the air, so we can mitigate these before ever stepping foot in the house.

Check My Security System

I have a smart security system installed in my home with a motion sensor and two door and window sensors to alert me on my smartphone if someone enters. It’s plugged into the power most of the time, but I changed out the backup batteries in the system’s hub before I left to make sure it continued to work if the power went out. It has built-in cellular backup so will still alert me to any intruders even if my WiFi router went down.

I also have a camera installed in my backyard that’s connected to the security system. It is battery powered, so to make sure it stayed charged for however long we would be gone I set up a solar panel to power it.

Prep the WiFi

A smart home runs on WiFi. If it goes down, it wouldn’t matter how many battery backups I have, most devices will no longer be able to communicate with me if I’m not in the house. The best solution is to connect a UPS (uninterruptable power supply) to the router and to the smart home hub I use to control many of the devices. These will only give me a few extra hours of “uptime,” but it’s worth it.

Check the Smoke Alarms

I have two smart smoke detectors in my home that send an alert to my phone if it detects fire, smoke or carbon monoxide. Before leaving, I also installed smart batteries in my remaining non-connected alarms. Interestingly, these smart batteries also have weather alerts built-in, and I received one telling me about the storm.

Switch the Smart Lighting to Vacation Mode

I use a smart home hub to control my connected lighting, and before I left the house (although I could do it once I’d left if I needed to — that’s the beauty of a smart home!), I turned on the three “vacation” routines I have created. These turn the lights on and off at different times of day on different days, helping give the impression the home is occupied.

Position the Leak Sensors

I have ZigBee-enabled leak detectors connected to my smart home hub to tell me if there is any water where it shouldn’t be. Before we left, I placed them in strategic locations around the house where water from flooding might intrude and near any appliances that could spring a leak.

Monitor the Sprinkler System

Have you ever seen someone’s sprinklers running during a hurricane? I have. In order not to look foolish or waste water, I set my smart sprinkler system into standby mode. However, it already knew a storm was coming and had turned off so it wouldn’t water for the following seven days. I also added a wireless flow meter to the system. This monitors water flow and shuts down the system if too much water is running through it.

Check the WiFi Cameras

In addition to the security camera in the backyard, I have three cameras watching over my home. A video doorbell, an outdoor camera and an indoor camera. Before leaving I repositioned the indoor camera to look out our back door, so I could monitor the whole perimeter of the house from afar.

Putting It All to Use

The beauty of a connected home is that you don’t need to constantly monitor it — if there’s a problem, it will tell me. If a smoke alarm goes off, I’ll get a notification. If the leak detector senses water, I’ll know about it. If someone approaches my front door — I’ll see live video of the event, even if they don’t press the doorbell.

In theory, I could just sit back and relax on my Hurri-cation in Florida, but in reality, we were all glued to The Weather Channel, and I was checking on my cameras every hour or so, especially when the storm arrived, which thankfully just grazed us.

When we got home a week later, we counted our blessings that we had been spared, packed up all the extra canned food, batteries and other supplies we had bought before the storm, and sent them a few miles up the coast to where they were now desperately needed.

Jennifer Pattison Tuohy is a freelance writer and editor covering the intersection of sustainability and technology for Xfinity Home. She writes about the Smart home, mobile phone technology, consumer tech, small businesses, and green living for a variety of newspapers, magazine and online publications.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

Geothermal Heat Pumps: How We Installed Our Green Alternative to Fuel Oil Heating

Removing Oil Tank From Yard 

Removing an old fuel oil tank from yard. Photo by Steve Ehrman

During summer 2018, my husband and I began searching for a home out in the country. For 10 years we had raised our two sons in a kid-friendly townhouse neighborhood in the exurbs of Northern Maryland, and we were ready for a change. We had become known as the weird neighbors who insisted on raising vegetables in a garden that ran all the way around our end-unit home, and we had come to realize what we really wanted was a large yard with a full garden.

After our youngest son graduated from high school, we found our dream house. Built in 1977, this place was beautiful on the outside and had many new updates on the inside. But the best part was that it sat on an almost 2-acre lot with lots of open space, and was surrounded by large trees on all four sides. It was love at first sight.

Finding Greener Options for Fuel Oil Heating

Then came the home inspection. Everything was going smoothly until the very end when the inspector discovered a fuel oil tank buried in the front yard. We insisted on a pre-sale inspection which revealed that the tank was leaking, and by law the state EPA was brought in. Fortunately, the sellers were able to take advantage of a Maryland compensation program to help offset much of the expense of having it removed and properly disposing of the contaminated soil.

This meant that at the time of closing in late June we were without any heat in the house. We had decided we didn’t want the sellers to simply replace the old tank with an above ground fuel oil tank. Fuel oil is an increasingly expensive way to heat a home, and of course it’s not environmentally friendly. At this point we decided our best option was probably a conventional electric heat pump. Our dream was a geothermal system, but we thought it would be too cost prohibitive. I’m happy to say we were wrong.

How a Geothermal Heat Pump Works

A geothermal heat pump uses the same general process of heat transfer as a traditional air heat pump, only it’s much more energy efficient, because the temperature of the earth is consistently warmer than the air during the winter and cooler than the air in the summer.

When it’s cold outside, a geothermal pump draws the heat from the ground, concentrates it, and delivers it into the home. In the summer, the opposite happens as warmth is pulled from the house and sunk into the cooler ground. This is accomplished by running water through a series of “ground loops,” which are basically heavy-duty coiled tubing. This means that about 70 percent of the energy required by a geothermal system comes from the earth itself, which in turn draws its warmth from the sun.

According to the EPA, geothermal heat pumps can reduce energy consumption up to 44% compared to air-sourced heat pumps, which are generally considered to be very efficient heating and cooling systems. BGE, our local electricity and gas utility, estimates that many home owners will see a return on energy cost savings in as little as two years of investing in a geothermal system.

Closed Loop vs Open Loop Heat Pumps

Ground loops can be “closed” or “open.” In a closed ground loop system, they are filled with a mixture of water and antifreeze which never leaves the piping as it circulates through the ground and home.

Our company uses ethanol, which is more environmentally friendly and efficient than propylene glycol, and they test the system regularly to ensure there are no leaks. If there is a well or body of water on the property, an open system can be installed, depending on local regulations. This type of setup uses plain water, exchanging the warmed or cooled water directly back into the well or pond as it runs.

These loops can be installed vertically or horizontally. Vertical loops require less disruption to a yard but are more expensive due to the increased cost of digging to a greater depth. Horizontal loops can be placed just five feet below the surface but require tearing up a good deal of the lawn, depending on the square footage of the house and the heating capacity of the water furnace.

Due to the size of our backyard, the fact that we haven’t started any gardens or landscaping projects yet, the lower cost of horizontal loops, and the increased number of regulations and permits in Maryland for vertical ground loops and open loops, we opted for closed horizontal loops.

Different geothermal companies offer different options with installation, including heating for your hot water, smart thermostats, humidifiers, and dehumidifiers. After doing some research into the cost of buying and installing some of these things on our own, we decided that the only other option we wanted was the hot water heating, because it will provide an additional cost and energy savings over time.

Incentives for Geothermal Heat Pumps

Installation and equipment costs vary by location. The total setup for our 1,900 square foot home, including the hot water option, will cost $24,000. But the reason we can afford to do this is because we’re not paying anywhere near that amount. With incentives and rebates, we will receive from the federal government, State of Maryland, our county, and our local energy utility company, the total final cost to us will be closer to $11,200.

And we won’t have to pay anything up front because we have taken out a special one-year, interest-free geothermal installation loan from a reputable company. We will have received the tax breaks and grants before the loan is due. Other longer-term payment options are available, but you need to be careful to consider the amount of interest that they will charge past any interest-free period.

In the end, we estimate that the geothermal installation and equipment will only cost us about $1,200 more than installing a top-of-the-line air heat pump and furnace. If we’d foregone the water heating option, it would have been about the same cost. And since we’ll be using less energy, we’ll end up saving much more over the years. If we are able to afford solar panels in the future, the house will be more efficient and almost independent of grid energy.

I will be writing more articles about our journey into greener living through geothermal in the coming weeks and months, including what the installation process entails and what it’s like living with geothermal. I will also be writing about our adventure in rebuilding our lives in the country and all the plants, good food, hard work, and fun that involves.

If you live in Northern Maryland and are looking for a reliable geothermal company, I recommend the services of Ground Loop, Inc.

Allison Ehrman works in the corporate world, but her heart and soul reside in her Northern Maryland country home, where she and her husband grow and preserve herbs and vegetables, prepare exotic dishes from locally-sourced foods and craft natural body care products.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

Boat Builder Constructs Sailboat-Inspired Handmade Home


The following is an excerpted from Home Work: Hand Built Shelter (Shelter Publications, 2004) by long-time MOTHER EARTH NEWS contributor Lloyd Kahn. The book features more than 1,500 photos illustrate various innovative architectural styles and natural building materials that have gained popularity in the last two decades, such as cob, papercrete, bamboo, adobe, strawbale, timber framing and earthbags. If you love fine, fun or funky buildings, you will want to own this splendid book.

Dean Ellis grew up in West Vancouver. He studied science at the University of British Columbia in the 1960s. When psychedelia came along, he switched to studying art. Dean became a photographer and did a number of shows. “Conceptual stuff, sort of like Andy Goldsworthy,” he says. In the late 60s he started working as a carpenter in Vancouver. Then he built a 35-foot sailboat “to sail the world.” But he ended up selling it and borrowing $100,000 to build a 42-foot fiberglass long-liner for cod fishing.

From boat building he learned to work with metal. With this house overlooking a beautiful stretch of coast, he decided to build a metal-frame house. To get the curves he wanted, he got a metal fabricator to run the 2-inch-by- 2-inch roof beams through a roller, bending them to the right curve. Posts are 3-inch-by-3-inch and 4-inch-by-4-inch steel tubes. The frame was welded in place and then plywood was attached with self-tapping metal screws.

“I never relied on welding,” says Dean. “I always welded things as strongly as I could, but I didn’t want to depend on the welds.” So he stacked the steel beams on top of the steel posts, as you would with a wood frame. “It allowed me to take a leap into steel.”

To make this kind of curved steel framing possible, he says, you need:

1. A nearby fabricator that will do the rolling at a decent price

2. A hand-held Makita grinder with cut-off blades

3. A wire-fed 220 Hobart welder. It weighs about 50 pounds, and costs around $,000 ( No acetylene tanks to lug around. He says it’s like using a glue gun.

4. A welding mask that gets darker when you look into the light, so you can work up high

He first put up the curved roof, directly influenced by Lloyd House’s building techniques. I asked him if he ever built a tilt-up wall and he said: “Well, how would you get the windows right?” Meaning you put up posts and the roof, then decide where windows go by looking both out from inside the house, and then back at the wall from the outside.

All the tables, chairs, light fixtures, and plumbing taps are homemade. The steel counters in the kitchen are bold and striking.

Dean clearly remembers my second book, Domebook 2. “I came from Domebook 2. The whole trip. I built an 18-foot dome in the woods. My wife was pregnant. It leaked, but it gave me a place to live for eight years. We had a potbelly stove — we cooked a turkey in it — we were living your dream. Right out of your book. It was gorgeous. We lived in a leaky dome, but the climate was so benign.”

Dean knew and admired Allen Ferrell, ­legendary BC boat builder (also featured in Home Work). “He lived totally simply.” Allen would typically sail in the Strait of Georgia in the summer (when water is warm enough for swimming), and then pull the boat up on the beach in the intertidal zone in the winter. In Canada, no one can own land below the high tide mark; this means, with say an 18-foot tide, there’s a lot of unowned land at water’s edge.

“It’s not just about boats,” Dean goes on. “It’s living in a beautiful place, a nice community. But that era has about ended now. Everything is too expensive these days; there are too many regulations.”

Lloyd Kahn is a sustainable living visionary and publisher of Shelter Publications. He is the author of natural building books, including Home WorkTiny HomesTiny Homes on the MoveShelter II , Builders of the Pacific Coast, and The Septic System Owner’s Manual (All available in the MOTHER EARTH NEWS Store). He lives and builds in Northern California. Follow Lloyd on his blogTwitter, and Facebook, and read all of his MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

Considering a Tiny Home? 8 Things to Think Through


Photo by Pexels/James Frid 

More than a trend, the tiny house movement has engendered a philosophy. It's the idea that people can do more with less, that they can cast off inessential luxuries and take only as much as they need. For many Americans, this mindset is a much-needed diversion from the country's obsessive consumerism.

But a tiny house is a giant leap in lifestyle for those who haven't experienced them. For individuals who have come to enjoy a certain degree of comfort, the constraints of a tiny house can prove disenchanting, failing to meet their expectations as an alternative way of life.

Those who want to make a tiny house their home should research the many different angles of this complicated subject. We've compiled the main points that every person should address before they invest, including advantages and disadvantages of the tiny house lifestyle.

Advantages of a Tiny Home

People seeking to buy a tiny house will find no lack of enthusiastic testimonials about the tiny lifestyle. Many of these claims are rational, with evidence to support them. Below are four reasons why a tiny house is a smart choice for those looking for a change.

1. Reduced Expenditure

The immediate appeal of owning a tiny house is the reduced cost of maintenance. It's a simple matter of scale. With a smaller property, the owner pays less for regular upkeep, while a larger property demands a constant stream of money to account for regular fixes and perpetual servicing.

For homeowners looking to downgrade, this factor might contribute to their final decision to buy, as it should. Many attribute their decision to the money they save in their monthly utilities, from reduced energy expenditure on efficient appliances to lower heating and cooling costs. These small cuts add up quickly.

2. Increased Mobility

Those who participate in the tiny house movement cite the mobility of their homes as a factor behind their purchase. As long as the tiny house is road legal and the homeowner has the proper equipment, they can hitch their house to their vehicle or transport it via trailer to a destination of their choosing.

Much like an RV in this regard, towing a tiny house allows the owner to bring their home with them anywhere. Retirees who are looking for an alternative living situation to their current property — if even for a brief period of respite — will find that a tiny house can serve as a little home away from home.

3. Lower Carbon Emissions

To add to the material benefits a homeowner enjoys, a tiny house also lessens their carbon footprint. Tiny houses produce only 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide emissions per year. Compare that to the 28,000 pounds produced by an average-sized house. This significant difference is a strong selling point.

In addition to reduced emissions, tiny houses require fewer resources to build. With the population in the U.S. rapidly growing, a sustainable method of making more houses that take up less space is needed to alleviate stress. If more citizens were to make the switch, it would aid both the country and the planet.

4. Accessibility

Individuals with an aptitude for carpentry can try constructing a tiny house of their own, without the need for outside contractors. Those who work with their hands, particularly farmers, might find that building a tiny house is within their skill set and that they have the space and materials to do so.

On average, those with a DIY attitude can build their tiny house for an average of $23,000. Construction demands more than just a rudimentary knowledge of putting two boards together, of course, but with determination and commitment, almost anyone can turn their dream into a reality.

Disadvantages of a Tiny Home

Though many homeowners with a tiny house can attest to their advantages, certain disadvantages are impossible to ignore. Before taking the next step, those interested in owning a tiny house should thoroughly educate themselves on the pros and cons that downsizing entails.

1. Lack of Space

Families will find that a tiny house doesn't afford them nearly as much room as a regular house or homestead. For a nuclear family, or parents that are expecting children, the "tiny" part of the tiny house equation can serve as a significant barrier to entry that's difficult to overcome.

In an environment that parallels the close quarters of tiny house living, researchers found that crowding-related stress can lead to higher rates of domestic violence and substance abuse. A tiny house might cause strain on the owner's mental health, especially if they're prone to claustrophobia.

2. Fewer Appliances

Homeowners who downsize will have to make compromises in the way that they live. This change is a simple fact of owning a tiny house — one that every potential buyer should come to grips with right away. With less space, there's less room for the modern comforts that most people enjoy.

Some tiny houses have to do without a washer and dryer, and others without an oven. Plumbing is its own issue, with small-scale infrastructure depending on compost toilets when standard pipes won't fit in the space. Fortunately, there's a market for compact appliances to account for this problem.

3. Trouble Socializing

Homeowners who frequently host guests should know that a tiny house is no place for socialization. It's difficult — if not impossible — to entertain an entire group within the confines of a tiny house, and those who try will soon find themselves transitioning to the front lawn for roomier accommodations.

It's reasonable to have a single visitor, but inviting multiple people is unrealistic in many cases. That said, the novelty of a tiny house is sure to attract attention, and if the property is large and the season is right, there's no reason a homeowner can't hold a successful outdoor party.

4. Legal Implications

There are legal implications to owning any type of property, but tiny houses are often under scrutiny. Without an understanding of local laws, homeowners with tiny houses can face zoning fines and in extreme cases, eviction. It can prove challenging to process and account for all of these regulations.

Grassroots organizers have pushed for a wider acceptance of tiny houses in their communities, but ordinances often differ on a town by town, city by city basis. Homeowners should research which areas of the U.S. are flexible in their laws and which will cause more trouble than they're worth.

Deciding What Matters Most

Those interested in downsizing their property have much to consider. A tiny house is no small investment. It represents a significant change in lifestyle that a homeowner will have to come to terms with, and they should set aside time to weigh the advantages and disadvantages of the shift.

A tiny house comes with challenges, of course. But as many Americans have found, even the tiniest house has a lot to offer.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

How To Conduct a Simple DIY Home Energy Audit

modern energy-efficient home

While implementing renewable energy options at home, such as solar panels or wind turbines, can offset your energy usage and potentially reduce your utility bills, it’s a good idea to periodically check on your home’s efficiency and ensure that you’re not wasting energy unknowingly.

Performing a home energy audit is a quick, simple, effective way to reduce your carbon footprint, maintain your home, and save money on your energy bills. The following 7-step guide will help you to determine which areas of your house have room for improvement, as well as provide recommendations that you can implement for a more energy-efficient home.

Step 1: Find Air Leaks

Air leaks can let air from your heating and cooling systems out, let outside air in, and make your home drafty. Common spots for air leaks include doors, window frames, baseboards, and electrical outlets.

To determine whether or not you have an air leak, go around to the spots mentioned above and hold a feather or string in front of them. If it moves, there’s likely an air leak.

If you do find air leaks, use caulking, expanding foam, or weather stripping to fill and seal them. For air leaks near electrical outlets, place an electrical or switch plate insulation pad behind the plate.

Step 2: Examine Lighting 

Do some research on your light fixtures and figure out the size and wattage of bulbs they require. Then, consider switching your current bulbs out with light emitting diodes (LEDs) or compact fluorescent lights (CFLs), as these can put off the same amount of light as a normal incandescent bulbs while using much less energy.

Step 3: Check Windows

Sun rays streaming into your home through windows can put a huge strain on your cooling system, so in hot summer months, ensure that your windows are shaded or covered. You may consider putting up awnings or investing in solar screens.

However, during colder winter months, you should un-shade your windows, as letting sun rays in will help heat the home.

Step 4: Inspect Plumbing 

Standard shower heads, sinks, and toilets utilize a significant amount of energy. To save water, energy, and money, consider switching to low-flow options.

You can also conserve energy by turning down your water temperature. To determine your current water temperature, run hot water to your sink and test it with a kitchen thermometer. The Department of Energy recommends setting your water heater to 120°, so if the water is hotter than that, turn down the dial on your hot water tank and test again in a few hours.

Step 5: Look at Electronics and Appliances

Keeping your electronics and appliances plugged in at all times, even when you’re not using them, utilizes a significant amount of unnecessary energy. If you don’t want to worry about plugging and unplugging your devices, you may consider purchasing a smart power strip to plug your devices into. Then, you can simply turn the strip off when your electronics are not in use. 

When it comes time to replace appliances, buy Energy Star rated products, which are certified to meet certain standards of energy efficiency and save on operating costs.

Step 6: Assess Heating and Cooling Systems

Check the ductwork for your heating and cooling systems and make sure that they are all connected, both to each other and to the unit. Like you did with your windows, doors, baseboards, and electrical outlets, test for air leaks in the ductwork of your systems and seal any leaks that you find.

It’s also a good idea to have your heating and cooling systems serviced annually to ensure they are in top working condition, as well as replace the air filters in your HVAC systems as often as recommended.

Step 7: Evaluate Insulation

Attics, basements, walls, and pipes should have their insulation checked every few months.

Looking across your attic, if the insulation is level with or below the floor joists, you probably need to add more insulation. Make sure the insulation in your attic is evenly distributed with no low spots.

To check insulation in your walls, cut the power and remove outlet covers. Shine a flashlight into the crack around the outlet box and you should be able to see if there is insulation in the wall and how thick it is. If you think you may need more insulation in your walls, it’s a good idea to have a professional take a look. 

If your water pipes don’t have any insulation, you can reduce heat loss by adding pipe wrap insulation wherever you have access to the pipes. Pipe wrap insulation is easy to install: simply duct-tape one end to the end of a pipe (if the insulation isn’t already self-adhesive) and wrap the insulation around the pipe, overlapping it by at least one-half inch with each wrap. Completely cover the pipe, taking care not to leave any areas exposed, then tape the end in place.

Sarah Hancock educates consumers about the workings of the solar industry to help people make decisions that benefit both their own interests and the environment. Connect with her on the Best Company Solar Blog and on Twitter.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

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