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Do-it-yourself projects and plans for anyone who can swing a hammer.

Build a Bicycle Dash Cam with an Old Cell Phone


According to All Green Recycling, 57 million phones are thrown out by Americans every year. About 75% of all used phones go to the landfill. Phones release toxic substances into the environment, so they should be recycled or reused whenever possible. The report revealed that 9.4 million tons of e-waste are produced by the United States every year, and only 13% of electronics in the country are recycled. When we throw out electronics, we are getting rid of materials that are valuable. When a million cell phones are thrown out, we throw away 772 pounds of silver, 75 pounds of gold, 33 pounds of palladium, and 35,000 pounds of copper. In other words, every year, U.S. residents are throwing away over $60 million in gold and silver.

The average American replaces his or her cell phone on an annual basis, making phones the most commonly replaced electronic item in use. After you get a new phone, you can put your old phone to good use, which in turn will reduce your carbon footprint and help the environment by reducing the harmful chemicals and materials that are released by a phone being thrown into the trash. A smartphone can effectively be used as a dash cam.

Upcycled Bicycle Dash Cam

While there are a few ways to make use of your old smartphone, one of the better ways is to convert into a dash cam that you can use on your bicycle. With the camera, you can record your rides, which is especially helpful if you are involved in a crash with another vehicle.

With recorded video detailing an accident, you can avoid those arguments that are basically “he said, she said" and you can show officers exactly what happened. A video is more reliable and acceptable than any verbal statements from witnesses.

Getting Your Dash Cam Set Up

You’ll need the following to mount your old cellphone to your bike:

• 2 strips of heavy-duty Velcro
• 1 flat angle bracket
• 2 1 ¾’ pipe clamps
• a section of Inner tube (optional)
• an old cellphone
• A dashcam app of your choosing

To use your smartphone as a dash cam on your bike, you will need to make sure it is properly secured to your bike. To do this correctly, you must take two strips of heavy-duty Velcro along with two pipe clamps and a flat corner brace to properly attach it. You will start by attaching the corner brace to your smartphone.

Next, attach a sturdy Velcro strip to your phone's back. You will put the second strip on the end of the brace corner and trim any extra Velcro off and away from the brace. By using heavy-duty Velcro, you shouldn't have to worry about the camera coming loose. The corner brace must be attached to the bicycle directly.

Take two pipe clamps so you can attach the part of the corner brace that is untouched so the phone can be held up and used. The pipe clamps must be positioned near the center of the handlebar, which will enable you to get a better picture when videotaping. The corner brace needs to be tightened under the clamps.

Take a small inner tube section and place it over the area where the clamps are going to be attached so you don't damage your bike's finish.

To run a dash cam app on your old phone, you will not need cellular service or WiFi. You will just need to download a dash cam app onto the old phone. You will then just start the app at any time you head out on the road. There is always the chance of flaws or malfunctions, but you will be giving yourself a way to protect yourself in a friendly, eco-friendly manner that is much less expensive than purchasing a dash cam.

A dash cam can make a significant difference in whether you have an ongoing dispute after filing an insurance claim following a cycling crash. While you cannot expect a smartphone being used as a dash cam to be foolproof, you can expect greater protection. You need to remember to turn the app on and start when you go for a ride, so it will be working.

This article was created by Personal Injury Help, an organization dedicated to providing the public with information about personal injury and safety information. Nothing in this article constitutes legal advice or opinion, and is intended for informational use only.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

Redesigning Holidays to Fit Your Lifestyle


As an inventive and flexible artist, I am used to repurposing and redesigning things to fit my individual needs. Doing so in my arting and my gardening comes quite naturally. However, redesigning the holidays took a bit longer for me to achieve due to habit and tradition.

Our most recent redesign was a shift several years ago from celebrating Thanksgiving to honoring ThanksGaia. For the past 15 years or so, I have become more and more dissonant with this holiday tradition due to the growing divide I felt between what Thanksgiving has traditionally represented and how that narrative doesn’t square with accurate history.

However, I love gathering on that Thursday and sharing a meal of abundance with close friends (intentional family) and relatives. A dear friend felt a similar discomfort and suggested the renaming to ThanksGaia (Gaia—Greek Goddess of the Earth). As soon as I heard Eric’s suggestion, I was in. This name more fully affirms my beliefs and practices as our table is resplendent with food from our garden, both fresh and preserved.

Winter Solstice

Our ThanksGaia dinner includes the staples of a fresh, local or organic turkey; mashed potatoes (often from our garden); sweet potatoes (from our garden); the three sisters of squash (homegrown pumpkin), corn (cornbread with our own dried corn ground into meal), and beans (green beans sauteed in garlic from our garden); applesauce (made from the apples from our trees); mead (also from our fruit); and added this year, krautchi (fermented from our cabbage and other veggies). This helps create a meal that truly shows the abundance our Mother Earth has gifted us.

This celebration, as depicted above, is perfect for us. It may work for you as well, or it may not. The point of redesigning any holiday is to create one that befits your personal desires and needs. You’ll want to keep the traditions that you hold dear, replacing those that don’t work for you.

About 20 years ago, our family remodeled another holiday in an even larger way. Our children were younger, still enjoying Christmas and all the excitement that comes with that time of year. They were also questioning why we observed some of the traditions when they didn’t necessarily line up with our own beliefs.

Since we were homeschooling at the time, we decided to research other traditions. We ended up not only redesigning the way we celebrated but also moved the date. Since then, we have celebrated on the Winter Solstice which lines up more directly with our love of the earth rather than with the birth of Jesus.

An interesting thing happened once we made this shift. The stress levels lessened for us all. We were also able to more easily celebrate the Christian aspects of the holiday with our in-laws without feeling the discord. This allowed us to more fully embrace the meaning of the day as they celebrated it.

Before it crosses your mind, this is not an attempt at “killing Christmas.” In fact, for me, it helps resurrect it by keeping it separate and maintaining a sort of purity. We were able to move the traditions that we hold dear to our day of celebration while separating out the religious aspects of the holy day that our relatives glorify.

How to Redesign Your Holiday

Get together with the impacted group of people so you create a holiday everyone feels connected to and each individual feels involved in the new tradition. This can be a detailed process that involves weeks or months, or it can be a brief afternoon discussion. It also might be driven by one person’s need for a change with others going along. For those celebrating alone, I believe this is still a vital process. Why not look at how to change a holiday or time of year to reclaim it and make it something more personally enjoyable?

You might ask these questions:

Do you want to change the date?

What do you like about the holiday as you currently celebrate it?

What do you want to leave behind because it bothers you?

Are there foods that embody this holiday for you?

Are there people you wish to include or avoid?

What is sacred about the holiday and would be missing if you didn’t include it?

Can you include practices that more nearly align with your beliefs?

Do you want to research your ancestry and incorporate some related traditions?

Do you want to make your day more holy or fun?

What aspects will create the desired atmosphere and outcome?

Find the process and motivation that speaks to you and yours, then follow it and design away. If changing the name will suffice (as it did for us with ThanksGaia), then go for it. If you need a more major overhaul (as with our Solstice shift), you may have to try different things and alter bit by bit until it feels right.

Walk in the garden

I’ll leave you with my long-practiced birthday celebration practice: Celebrate the day of your birth for as many days as you are years old. This year I turned 60, that earns me 60 days of revelry. This means that I choose one small special thing each day for 60 days that makes me smile. This could be anything from a walk in my garden to a meal with friends. The key is focusing on happiness and fulfillment. Be happy!

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

How to Make a Christmas Holiday Wreath


Photo by Getty Images/FatCamera

For this project, you’ll need a wire wreath frame, some florists’ or paddle wire, and some pruners. You’ll also need some festive-looking plant material gathered from your garden, such as berry-bearing holly, ivy, and conifer sprigs. You may like to add a bow or ribbon as a festive finishing.

Making a Holiday Wreath Step-by-Step

• Cut your materials to size. (Make sure they’re in proportion to the wreath frame.)
• Fix the end of the florists’ wire to the wreath frame by wrapping it around the frame three or four times. Pull it tight to lock it in place.
• Choose a piece of each material for your first bundle. Position the largest pieces at the base and anything with berries toward the top.
• Place the bundle on the frame where you’ve fixed the florists’ wire. Wrap the wire around the bundle three times. Pull it tight.
• Repeat with each additional bundle until you’ve nearly filled the frame. Overlap each bundle with the next to hide the wire.
• Make a smaller bundle to finish with. Tuck this under the first bundle. Fix it in place with the florists’ wire.
• Turn the wreath over. Cut the florists’ wire and secure it into the wreath frame.

Learn more about making your own wreath in this video.

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More Videos

Watch more videos on gardening techniques and other self-reliance, DIY topics on our Wiser Living Videos page.

DIY Greenhouse Build with 2-by-4s and Gambrel Roof

Our family designed and built a gambrel-roofed greenhouse from the ground up. In this article, I provide step-by-step details on how to build this greenhouse with a 2-by-4 structure. We also created a detailed YouTube video.

The items below are what you will need for our design (10 feet wide by 12 feet).


• Safety goggles
• Gloves
• Tape measure
• Drill and 5/16 drill bit
• 1/4 hex driver
• Circular saw
• Miter saw
• Hammer or nail gun
• Tin snips
• Paint brush
• Level

Material Needed:

• TUFTEX polycarbonate panels
• Foam enclosure strips (80) and screws
• Aluminum corrugated siding - 20 pieces
• 2x4 x8 feet boards. 60 pieces
• 2x4 x12 feet boards. 5 pieces
• 2x4 x12 feet boards, Pressure treated. 2 pieces
• 2x4 x10 feet boards, Pressure treated. 2 pieces
• 12 feet aluminum ridge cap
• 25 feet of rolled aluminum
• 30-inch door
• Framing nails
• White Exterior Paint

Step 1: Build the 3-Foot-High Side Walls

The first step is to build the side walls. The side walls are 36 inches high and 12 feet long. With the top and bottom boards at 3 inches high, you will want to cut the studs at 33" high. Looking at our Sketchup design we have 26 studs at 33 inches each.

To speed up this process I created a stop with some scraps of wood next to my miter saw that allows cuts of precisely 33 inches.

The side walls are 12 feet long, so you will want to use 2 of the 12 foot 2-by-4s for the top and bottom of each wall.

We want the 2-by-4s to be 24 inches on center to have a proper location to screw the walls into. 24 inch on center will carry up to the rafters which will have the TUFTEX panels attached to.

Instead of measuring and marking the 12 foot board at 24 inches on center, I created a spacer board at 22.5". This spacer really sped up the process and we  re-use this spacer later in the project. The nail gun makes fast work of things.

Greenhouse Build Step 1

Step 2: Build the Front and Back Walls

Using my 3D Sketchup design, I print out the dimensions to get a cut list for the front and back walls.

The front wall is like the back wall at 10 feet wide, however we have a door in the middle. We leave the 10-foot-wide board on the bottom (don't cut it out for the door, it will keep things stable).

You want to allow for a 30" wide by 80" high door in the center of the wall. And then add additional 33" boards at 24" on center to the left and right of the door.

For the top of the door/header I sandwiched some particleboard scraps between two 30" wide 2-by-4s.

We will be adding additional framing to these sections in a later step.

Greenhouse Build Step 2

Step 3: Cut the Rafters

For this design, we have 14 top rafters and 14 bottom rafters. Since it is difficult to convey the various angles I suggest that you use my Google Sketchup design to get the lengths and angles. Another option is to purchase pre- made rafters from your local home center. I can provide the actual Google Sketchup files for free on request. Be sure to dry fit/test the rafters before you cut them all.

I used my Sketchup design to get my lengths and angles and I setup the angle on my miter saw and setup another stop and then cut all 14 bottom and then top rafters.

Greenhouse Build Step 3

Step 4: Build the 24 Gussets for the Gambrel Roof

Since we have a gambrel roof we need a sturdy connection from the top rafter to the bottom rafter. For this we built 24 gussets. Two gussets for each gambrel transition and one gusset on the inside of the first and last rafter.

To build the gussets, first mockup one with cardboard and dry fit it. Then cut them all out on particle board.

Greenhouse Build Step 4

Step 5: Assemble the Rafters, Attach the Gussets

Using some leftover scraps from cutting out the gussets, I created a jig. With this jig, I perfectly aligned each rafter and the jig holds things in place so that I could attach the gussets.

Greenhouse Build Step 5

Step 6: Assembly and Foundation

Time for assembly. At this point we attached the pressure treated boards to the bottom of each wall. We then moved the greenhouse and dug several holes and filled them with cement.

Dpending on your soil/location you should consider an ideal foundation.

Greenhouse Build Step 6

Step 7: Rafters, Purllns and Paint

It's all coming together now! We temporarily affix the 12-foot ridge board above the door and precisely center it. Then we start attaching the rafters. We attached through the ridge board with 2 long screws from the opposite side. We use our 22.5-inch spacer board when attaching each rafter.

After all the rafters are up we cut purlins to go between each rafter. After all the purlins are attached we paint everything white.

Step 8: Front Wall and Back Wall

While the painting is in process. I build a grid on the front and back wall. The goal is to have 24" center squares to attach the TUFTEX to.

Some of these cuts can be tricky, one thing that helps when trying to frame into an angled section is to align the board in front of the angle and use the angle board as a guide, draw a line and cut it. This is what we did to make the cut pictured above fit perfectly.

Greenhouse Build Step 8

Step 9: Side Walls and Flashing

The final step before adding the TUFTEX panels is to add the side walls. We bought 36" high corrugated aluminum for this. We attached these with metal roofing screws.

Then we rolled out the aluminum flashing and cut in 12-foot sections. We attach the flashing to the bottom part of the top section of rafter (top gambrel) and we don’t attach it to the bottom section of roofing.

The TUFTEX panels on the top roof section will attach over the flashing, the TUFTEX panels on the bottom roof section will go under the flashing. This way, any wind driven rain will not make it through the gambrel section.

Greenhouse Build Step 9

Step 10: Attach the TUFTEX Polycarbonate Panels

We can finally attach the panels! These TUFTEX Polycarbonate Panels can be cut with a circular saw with the blade in backwards.

We also cut some of the panels for the front and back with a tin snips.

A few notes on installation of these panels: Pre-drill all holes or you can end up with small cracks. Since you can see the foam filler through the panel- keep them nice and straight. Like anything, practice makes perfect. Consider starting the TUFTEX installation on the part of the greenhouse least viewed (the back-side) and install the final panels on the front-side (most viewed) because by the time you get to the front you will likely be doing your best work!

Step 11: Flashing and Finale

We used some aluminum edge flashing on each outside corner. We used a white ridge cap on the top of the greenhouse. Please be sure to watch the video of this project — it is a great video and will help better explain some of the steps of this project.

Photos by Kerry Mann and Jen Mann

Kerry W. Mann, Jr. moved to a 20-acre homestead in 2015, where he and his family use modern technology, including YouTube and, to learn new skills and teach homestead projects. Connect with Kerry on his Homestead How YouTube page, Instructables, Pinterest,  Facebook, and at My Evergreen Homestead.

Greenscraping Gourds

Gourds green and greenscraped

My last blog article covered how to clean a previous year’s gourds. The method described in that post is great for gourds of all sizes, from tiny to huge. However, letting nature take her course with mold growing over the entire surface can leave areas of discoloration that may interfere with artistic preferences.

In this article, I describe (and show via video) a nifty process that not only gives you a more uniform surface but also speeds up the drying process. While the old, moldy way is an over-wintering process, the greenscraping method yields ready-to-art gourds in just a month or two.

In the above photo, you can see my freshly picked banana and cannonball gourds in the bowl and those same gourds completely greenscraped and drying on the racks. Also pictured are three completed gournaments from past seasons. Though I may lose some of the freshly greenscraped gourds due to their immaturity at season’s end, I love the nearly perfect surface created with this method so much that I find it’s worth it to lose a couple in the process.

Gourds larger than you can hold easily in one hand should be left to cure naturally (as described in my previous article). The imbalance of moisture content between the very wet insides and the drying, scraped outside of a larger, thicker-walled gourd will cause it to explode from the pressure differences. Thick walls are definitely preferred for strength (such as needed for containers) but they do not lend themselves to speedier drying processes. That preferred thickness becomes a barrier to successful greenscraping by keeping water in too thoroughly while the outside environment is evaporating as quickly as possible.

I have created a video of the greenscraping process if you want to see this method in action. Here’s my outline for greenscraping gourds.


A safe working surface
Bleach (just a capful or two)
Rubber gloves
Cloth scrubber
Bucket with water
Dull knife
2 plates

The Greenscraping Process

Make sure that the area you are working in won’t be adversely impacted if any of your bleach (or water with bleach) splashes or spills. I like to work on a piece of rigid plastic that has a lip. I lay my rags down on it so they can absorb any excess water from the dipped gourds. I also like to use gloves so the gourds don’t collect germs from my hands after dipping. This keeps the potential for mold-growing to a minimum.

Greenscraping tools

Once your station is set up, scrape the outside layer (the green skin) off of the gourd to reveal the hard shell beneath. You’ll want to scrape off as much as possible so that the final scrubbing (with the cloth scrubber) is easier. Hold your knife at an angle and peel or scrape at will. I usually do this fairly quickly—only slowing down where there is a blemish or if my gourd is curved in a more difficult-to-reach way.

After the gourd is scraped free of its outer skin, dip it in the bleach water for 10 seconds or so. Take the gourd out and lay it on a rag. Use the cloth scrubber to clean off any green skin that remains. These are usually small streaks left from the imprecise stroking of the knife or areas near the stem, blossom end, or a blemish. If necessary, gently scrape hard-to-reach areas with the knife.

Dip the gourd into the bleach water one last time, then set onto a plate. Once you accrue several completely cleaned gourds, transfer them to a safe and undisturbed place to finish drying. Make sure that the gourds are not touching and that there is plenty of space around them for free-flowing air. I use old shoe racks set up in my studio to dry mine (as in that top photo). Check the gourds once a week or so. If you notice any mold starting up, simply wipe them down with a rag soaked in bleach water.

Depending on the thickness of the gourds and the heat and humidity of your drying space, the gourds should be dried and ready to work with in 6 to 12 weeks. Their color will slowly change, losing the green tones and turning more tan. When I think they’re ready I test mine by touching them to my cheek. They are room temperature when they are finished.

The photo below shows banana gourds at various stages after being picked.

banana gourd comparisons

Left to right: newly harvested, freshly greenscraped, greenscraped and dried for about 3 weeks, completely dried and altered for arting gournament, immature greenscraped gourd that has split, naturally curing and moldy gourd.  

Whether greenscraping or letting your gourds cure naturally, I hope these articles have given you food for thought and more of an appreciation for how much work goes into preparing a gourd for utilitarian and creative endeavors. As always, “Gourd forth and prosper.”

Blythe Pelham is an artist that aims to enable others to find their grounding through energy work. She is in the midst of writing a cookbook and will occasionally share bits in her blogging here. She writes, gardens and cooks in Ohio. Find her online at Humings and Being Blythe, and read all of her MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

A Gourdeous Day for Cleaning Gourds

Cleaned Gourds

Anyone who knows me understands that I love hardshell gourds in all shapes and sizes. Even though I have a lot of them in my waiting-to-be-arted-upon collection, I keep right on growing them. Part of my adoration comes from the transformation they go through from garden to canvas.

Hardshell gourds need a somewhat lengthy growing season (at least 120 days) so they have plenty of time to build up a nice thick shell. Once the season is over, the gourds can be left out in the elements to weather or they can be brought indoors. I let mine dry over the winter in my attic where the white and black molds don’t bother anyone. Speaking of that mold… it’s part of the drying process—your gourds are not rotting! It’s perfectly normal, don’t throw them away.

As you can see in the photo above (bottom left), after being harvested last year and drying completely this gourd is a fuzzy mess. It has also lost most of its weight. Last Fall it took both hands and some hefting to carry this gourd indoors. It easily weighed over 30 pounds. Now, I can lift it with one finger and it weighs under 2 pounds. Notice how beautifully it cleaned up with just a bit of elbow grease.

My favorite days for cleaning gourds are beautifully sunny days with not more than a slight breeze. Water is your friend when cleaning gourds and wind can slow down the process by swift evaporation. I choose a comfortably shady spot to work with full sun nearby so the freshly cleaned gourds can easily dry.

Gourd cleaning utensils

The tools I use for cleaning dried, moldy hardshell gourds:

2 large buckets
copper or stainless steel scrubbies (I go through at least one of these per session.)
old towels
scrub pad
old knife
plenty of disposable gloves (In one sitting, I only used one for my left hand but 4 for my right.)
large rocks (or other weighty things)
scrub brush (Optional—while you might find this useful, I tend to use the scrubbies the most.)

Set up Your Work Station

Fill your buckets two-thirds to three-quarters full with water and a little bleach (I use 1/4-1/2 a cup per large bucket). Put some gourds into the bucket and weight them down with rocks (see photo above, bottom left section). You’ll want to add water as necessary for proper submersion. Any parts above the waterline can be wrapped with soaking towels. If your gourds are too large for your container and you don’t have anything else that will suffice, you can soak the towels (don’t ring them out) and wrap the gourds. Let the gourds sit in the water (or soaked towels) for at least half an hour—longer is better.

Scrub Your Gourds Clean

Remove one gourd at a time to work on. As you take one out, you can start another soaking. I usually have at least 5 gourds going at once. I use one of the buckets for soaking and the other for dipping as I scrub as well as for adding water to the towels that are wrapped around the larger gourds. Scrubbing hard doesn’t damage the surface of the gourd but it does work well to remove the molds. (See top photo, bottom half. Both photos are of the same gourd on the same day—before and after cleaning.)

For the areas that I can’t easily access with the scrubbies, I use a scrub pad or one of my handy gourd knives. These knives were fashioned for me by a friend. He took some old kitchen knives and ground them so that I could greenscrape my gourds without damaging their surface. I use these to gently clean crevices that my other tools can’t reach.

Once the surface of the gourd is soundly scrubbed, I rinse it off with my garden hose (or other plain water source). I check for missed spots and scrub a little more as needed. Otherwise, set your gourd in the sunshine to dry. Be sure to turn it every so often to ensure complete drying.

The top part of the first photo shows the result of six hours of scrubbing from a recent gourd cleaning day. The lighter spots on a couple of the large gourds are blemishes that I’ll have to design around. Every one of these gourds were covered in yucky stuff (aka mold), as you can see evidenced in the photo below. But, there are beautiful golden brown canvases under all that black, white, and gray fuzz. Go forth and make your world a more gourgeous place by growing, curing, and cleaning gourds.

Gourds being cleaned

Blythe Pelham is an artist that aims to enable others to find their grounding through energy work. She is in the midst of writing a cookbook and will occasionally share bits in her blogging here. She writes, gardens and cooks in Ohio. Find her online at Humings and Being Blythe, and read all of her MOTHER EARTH NEWS posts here.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.

Holiday Heirloom Wallhanging

Christmas heirloom wallhanging

I think of myself as a permaculture educator and usually write about sustainable gardening. This post is not about gardening, but it sure is about permaculture. In permaculture we like to make use of everything we have. Well, I had accumulated a box full of jewelry that I never wore, so I decided to put the items in a wallhanging that we can get out every Christmas when the family is all here.

Each item seems to tell a story, especially the charms on the two charm bracelets I had. The activities they represent happened so long ago, I might not have even mentioned them before.  I used to wear a necklace now and then until the children (now ages 31-44) came along. The babies would quickly pull off anything dangling on the chains. In my wallhanging the empty chains are now garlands and the trinkets pulled off are ornaments on the tree, along with all the charms that never made it to the bracelets.

Being an active person involved in my community, I have accumulated pins given as awards, recognition, or membership. I can’t think of a better use for them other than putting them on this tree. Relatives who have passed are remembered here with pins they used to own.

If you don’t feel you are ready to give your jewelry up to a wallhanging, if your mother or grandmother are still living, you might make one with their jewelry. It could be a great bonding experience and the stories behind each piece can’t help but come tumbling out. If they have already passed on, you might have their jewelry, but you will miss out on the stories. You can find details about how I made this Christmas wallhanging and photos showing more detail about the pieces on it at Homeplace Earth.

It might be that you aren’t into Christmas trees, but some other idea will pop into your head for a wallhanging. Maybe the memorabilia that you decide to preserve for all to see won’t fit on a wallhanging, but would be great in a shadow box that you could hang on the wall. Whatever you decide on, enjoy the process and share it with others.

Cindy Conner is the author of Seed Libraries and Grow a Sustainable Diet and has produced DVDs about garden planning and managing cover crops with hand tools. Learn more about what she is up to at Homeplace Earth.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Guidelines, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on their byline link at the top of the page.