In Search Perfect Skillet

Image Gallery Photos by Claire Anderson

by Anne Vassal

Photos by Claire Anderson

It would be nice if I could share with you the wondrous aspects of my long time favorite skillet, but until recently I didn't have one. Over the years, not a single one ever stole my heart. Having a quality, 12-inch skillet ought to be a necessity of life, though, along with shoes, cell phones and brie (OK, maybe not brie), so finally, I set out to find my "one and only."

As it turned out, I found several skillets that tickled my fancy: Calphalon's Commercial and Kitchen Essentials lines, All-Clad Metalcrafter's own brand (my favorite!) and Emerilware, developed by All-Clad with celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse. Here are the most important points to consider when you're searching for skillet that will steal your heart.

SKILLET SHOP BUT NOT 'TILL YOU DROP

Most all-purpose skillets have either flared or straight sides. Those with flared sides are called fry or omelette pans , and usually they come without lids; food just slides right out of these pans and onto a plate. Those with straight sides are called saute pans, and they come with lids.

I decided to limit my spending to less than $150, although it's possible to buy skillets that cost twice that price. I tested numerous skillets for "release-ability" (whether the food stuck to the pan), heat distribution and cooking time. I cooked a variety of foods, including eggs, pancakes, eggplant, plantains, tofu and chicken.

Appearance, durability, feel and whether the skillet was oven- or broiler-safe also were evaluated.

Appearance. This may seem frivolous, but a cookware's design is what initially will attract your attention. Imagine how the pan will look in your kitchen, on your stove. Evaluate its scratch-resistance. The best skillets I tested were heavy-gauge metal pans with stainless steel exteriors; they resisted scratches and dents better than either black enamel or anodized aluminum pans.

Durability runs a close second to appearance. All the skillets I liked were listed as dish-washer safe, but company repre sentatives all recommended hand-washing. Although better cookware will come with a lifetime warranty, be sure to read the fine print before you buy.