A HEALTHFUL AND MEATLESS DIET
Are you thinking of reducing the amount of meat in your
diet, or just looking for a tasty alternative to beef and
potatoes? You'll find some help in MOTHER's
mini-manual.
Jeanne Malmgren Cameron
A person has only to browse through the cookbook section in
any local bookstore to conclude that vegetarianism can no
longer be considered a fad, as it was only ten years ago.
With the fitness phenomenon reaching an all-time peak, more
and more people are searching for a more healthful diet . .
. and for many, that means cutting back on meat, or even
eliminating it from their table. Furthermore,
vegetarianism—be it full- or part-time—has also
received the nod from the American Dietetic Association,
the National Cancer Institute, and the American Heart
Association.
But just how practical is a vegetarian diet, anyhow? As
more and more folks join the ranks of "rabbit-food
munchers," it becomes essential to dispel the myth that
vegetarian food consists largely of carrots and lettuce.
The majority of people who eschew meat altogether fall into
the lacto-ovo vegetarian slot: They eat a variety
of grains, nuts, beans, fruits, and vegetables, as well as
eggs and all dairy products. A little more strict are the
lacto vegetarians, who eliminate eggs from the
above list. The real hard-liners are the vegans (pronounced
VEH-jun), or "pure" vegetarians, who consume no animal
products at all.
NUTRITIONAL CONCERNS
Unfortunately, a good many folks who might otherwise dive
wholeheartedly into a low- or no-meat diet (for reasons of
health, ecology, economics, ethics, or whatever) hesitate
out of fear that they won't be able to provide their bodies
with the necessary vitamins and minerals on a vegetarian
regimen. And some people—particularly those with
hearty appetites—quail before the question of what to
eat in place of the familiar meat, fish, and poultry. (The
popular image of an anemic wisp of a person munching on
sprouts and nuts dies hard!)
However, these worries can be laid to rest. The basic
vegetarian diet is a totally healthful way of eating, one
that offers the body a full array of vitamins and minerals
and ample caloric energy to keep the human machine humming
along.
And you have only to glance through the pages of vegetarian
cookbooks to be assured that you'll eat handsomely on
nonmeat fare. Vegetarian cookery is a rich and varied
cuisine, full of marvelous dishes that suggest a whole new
style of, and reverence for, eating. Most folks who make
the transition to vegetarianism find that, rather than
feeling limited by their new diet, they're
actually overwhelmed with the spectrum of tasty meal
possibilities.
THE BASICS
Back in elementary school, we all memorized the famous Four
Food Groups, representing those categories said to be
necessary for a well-balanced diet. Basically, that was
sound advice, and it needs only slight modification to be
applicable to a meatless diet. From Laurel's
Kitchen (see the accompanying source list), here's an
updated and revised version of the Four Food Groups, which
offers a varied and safe way to nourish the body without
including meat: [1] vegetables (yellow and leafy green),
[2] fruits, [3] dairy products and eggs, and [4] grains,
legumes, nuts, and seeds. Choosing three or more servings
every day from each of these divisions will ensure the
lacto-ovo vegetarian a supremely healthy diet. For a
vegan regime, in which the dairy food/egg category
is not used, it's necessary to combine plant foods
carefully in order to ensure adequate protein intake.
A COMPLEMENT A DAY
Protein is probably the biggest bugaboo faced by
the potential or neophyte vegetarian. But not to worry.
Getting one's adequate share of daily protein is no problem
for the conscientious vegetarian, even for the vegan. In
fact, ensuring that you consume enough protein every day is
now generally considered to be even easier than it
was ten years ago.
But first, why is protein so important? Aside from water,
protein is the most plentiful substance in the human body
and is vitally important for building muscles, skin, hair,
nails, and internal organs. Protein—a complex of
carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and usually
sulfur—is also an important ingredient in hemoglobin
(the substance that carries oxygen in the blood) and in
antibodies, as well as in the production of enzyme and
hormones.
We can't, however, obtain protein directly from the food we
eat. Rather, we must collect the 22 amino acids that serve
as its "building blocks," so that the body can manufacture
its own protein supply. All but eight of those 22 acids are
present in the body, and those eight are therefore labeled
"essential" (since they have to come from the food we eat).
The essential amino acids are isoleucine, leucine, lysine,
methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan, and
valine. (Children require an additional one, histidine.)
Unless all eight are present in the system at the same
time, no synthesis of protein can take place . . . and
herein lies the major difference between a meat-centered
and a plant-based diet. Animal foods already contain all
the necessary building blocks for protein: They are
"complete" proteins. Plant foods, however, with the notable
exception of the soybean, are "incomplete"
proteins—low in one or more of the eight essentials.
It's obvious, then, that anyone who eliminates meat from
his or her menu must make certain that the plant foods are
augmented in some way to make complete proteins. And that's
done through the principle of protein complementarity,
first brought into the limelight in this country with the
publication of Frances Moore Lappé's now familiar
Diet for a Small Planet.
The process of protein pairing involves serving together
foods that have complementary amino acid makeups. That is,
each partner's strengths make up for the other's
weaknesses. For example, grains generally contain very
little isoleucine and lysine, so their obvious protein
"buddies" would be legumes, which are moderately high in
isoleucine and very high in lysine. On the other
hand, legumes are low in tryptophan and methionine . . .
giving them an amino acid profile that's the
opposite of that of most nuts and seeds. Dairy
products are especially high in the very amino acids
lacking in cereal grains, providing another beneficial
pairing. Based on these principles of complementarity,
three important combinations of foods should be kept in
mind (and used every day!) by anyone practicing a meatless
diet:
[1] Grains + Legumes,
(2] Legumes + Nuts or Seeds,
[3] Dairy Products + Grains.
The lesson of protein complementarity, then, is a required
course for any vegetarian cook (in fact, it usually
occupies several pages in the front of most modern meatless
cookbooks) . . . but the good news is that it's easier to
master than you might expect. That's because protein
complementarity has served for centuries as the basis of
many traditional native cuisines around the world and is
even present in some of our common American dishes.
For example, beans and corn (served in the form of
tortillas with beans, or bean-filled enchiladas) are a
South American staple, black beans and Cuban rice are a
plat national all over the Caribbean, and lentils
and rice—in countless variations—are served
daily in India. The Orientals, too, have long known about
protein complementarity; they combine soybeans (usually in
the form of curd, or tofu) with rice throughout China,
Japan, and the rest of Asia. Indonesians commonly serve
tempeh (fermented soybean cakes) with their rice. In the
Mediterranean, native peoples feast on specialties
combining garbanzo beans and sesame seeds. Closer to home,
the American Indians taught the early colonists to eat
succotash (a tasty mixture of lima beans and corn). . . and
our modern standards include cereal-and-milk breakfasts,
peanut butter or cheese sandwiches for lunch, and dinners
of pizza (wheat crust and cheese topping) or macaroni and
cheese.
So you can see that ensuring a healthy daily allowance of
protein is really no problem for the vegetarian. Yet the
questions remain: How much protein do we really need, and
what proportions are necessary to successfully balance the
amino acids in complementary foods? Debatable issues, both
. . . but there is a margin of error within which a
non-meat eater can feel perfectly safe. The amount of
protein a person requires is determined by his or her body
size, age, sex, and levels of activity and stress. The
general rule of thumb—as specified by the National
Research Council's Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA)-is
that we should receive 10-15% of our total energy needs
from protein... or about 0.424 grams per pound of body
weight each day. Thus a 150-pound person would need 63.6
grams of protein daily.
It's widely suspected that the government's RDA's for some
nutrients—most notably protein—are at least
slightly exaggerated. Therefore, some nutritionists advise
that it's wise not to become too alarmed over the matter of
protein intake in a vegetarian diet. Instead of anxiously
trying to compute your daily grams, Frances Lappé
suggests that you learn to "read" your own body and notice
whether it's carrying on its normal maintenance functions
properly. How do your hair and fingernails look? Do minor
wounds and sores heal quickly? Do you have enough energy to
carry you through a normal day? If so, you're most likely
receiving plenty of protein. During times of stress or
under special physical conditions, however, the body's
protein "appetite" increases (as metabolic processes
accelerate). . . so the daily requirement is upped
accordingly. A pregnant woman, for example, needs 30 extra
grams of protein a day, while a lactating mother requires
20 extra grams. Babies and children under four years of
age, according to the RDA of the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration, need 28 grams of protein daily.
VITAMINS AND MINERALS
What about vitamins and minerals, though? Can the
vegetarian diet substitute adequately for the important
nutrients found in animal products? This often raised
question tends to overlook the fact that most of the
vitamins and minerals Americans consume come from the very
plant foods that star in a vegetarian diet! Vegetables
provide us with lots of vitamin A, vitamin C, folacin,
riboflavin, and calcium. Fruits, of course, are nature's
storehouses of vitamin C, as well as vitamin A and natural
fiber... while grains and legumes contribute a
long list of nutrients, including protein,
carbohydrates, thiamin, niacin, vitamin E, iron, zinc, and
magnesium. Even so, several important nutrients are often
mentioned as matters of concern when meat is eliminated
from the diet: calcium, the B vitamins, iron, and zinc.
However, if the meatless diet includes dairy products,
there is absolutely no danger of coming up short
on those elements... and even the pure vegetarian diet can
score well with just a little care and planning. In fact,
one of the beauties of a vegan regime is that it
helps restore the body's normal alkaline state (meat is a
very acid-forming food) and thus actually reduces
the need for base minerals, such as calcium. By receiving
enough sunlight (to aid calcium absorption) and eating
abundantly of dark, leafy greens and soy foods, even the
vegan needn't have any calcium worries.
The only B vitamin of notable concern to vegetarians is B
12 (cyanocobalamin). Although humans need B 12 in very
small amounts (the adult RDA is 3 micrograms), the vitamin
is not widely available in plant foods, so the strict
vegetarian must find special sources of B 12 . If dairy
products are not included in the diet, a person may choose
to get his or her B 12 from fermented soy foods (tempeh
cakes or miso paste), nutritional yeast (a powdered
supplement often used to make mock cheese), or spirulina (a
blue-green microalgae now available—for rather high
prices—in powder or tablet form). Of course, vitamin
B 12 supplement pills are also available to the vegan and
usually have to be taken only once a week.
Iron is another element that's commonly thought to be
available only from flesh foods . . . but it is contained
in plants, although in a form not as readily assimilated by
the body. To ensure adequate iron intake, the vegetarian
can eat lots of iron-rich foods (legumes, dark, leafy green
vegetables, dried fruit, and molasses)... supplement these
with vitamin C (from any citrus fruit) to enhance iron
absorption . . . and use cast-iron cookware.
Fruits and vegetables, it's true, are generally poor
suppliers of zinc, a trace mineral that's vital to
enzymatic metabolism and reproductive functions. However,
most whole grains and legumes (both of which play prominent
roles in the vegetarian diet) provide ample amounts of
zinc.
PAIRING UP IN THE KITCHEN
We've already explored the nutritional basis of protein
complementarity; now let's examine the practical side of
the matter. In other words, how in the world do you get all
those little amino acids lined up in proper pairs when
you're rushing to get dinner on the table? Just keep in
mind those three basic combinations: grains with legumes,
nuts or seeds with legumes, and dairy products with grains.
Using those guidelines as a point of departure, you're
limited only by your culinary imagination. Here are some
suggestions to get you started.
In the grains plus beans category, an easy booster is two
tablespoons of crunchy soy grits (cracked, partially cooked
soybeans.) added to each cup of flour used in a recipe. Or
try a rice-bean casserole, split pea soup served with whole
wheat or rye bread, a lentil or bean curry served over
rice, or corn tortillas with a refried-bean topping.
For the nuts or seeds plus legumes combination, you can
sprinkle sesame salt over a bean casserole, put it in a
garbanzo-carrot stew, or try making hummus (the Middle
Eastern sandwich spread of mashed chick-peas and sesame
meal). A similar Mediterranean delight is falafel ... a
hummus-like dough that's shaped into balls, deep-fried, and
served on whole wheat pita bread.
Dairy products and grains are another happy match in the
world of protein pairing and probably offer the easiest
combination to work with. By simply adding two tablespoons
of nonfat dry milk to one cup of wheat or rye flour, you'll
increase the dish's protein quality by 45%! You can also
rely on macaroni and cheese, cereal and milk, rice-milk
pudding, cheese sandwiches, barley and yogurt soup, or
cheese and rice pilaf.
In addition to the three major complementary groups, other
beneficial pairings include grains with nuts or seeds
(whole wheat bread with tahini—sesame meal—or
peanut butter)... dairy products with legumes (how about a
cheese sauce over cooked garbanzos?)... or even grains with
yeast (include a little nutritional yeast in bread dough or
pancake batter, or sprinkle it on cereals and popcorn).
Sesame seeds and Brazil nuts, by the way, are both high in
methionine, the amino acid most lacking in dark, leafy
greens... so sprinkle some over your next batch of steamed
collards or kale for a taste and protein treat!
SOY FOODS REIGN SUPREME
Surely a meatless cook's best friend is the soybean: Humble,
trustworthy, and incredibly versatile, the little rotund
legume is a joy to have around and to work with. Soy foods
have been venerated in the cuisines of the Orient for
thousands of years, but they've been "discovered" in
Western kitchens only in the past 15 years or so, despite
the fact that the United States produces two-thirds of the
world's soybeans. Containing 35% protein by dry weight
(more than any other unprocessed plant or animal food), the
soybean is a nutritious little nugget: It contains no
cholesterol, almost no saturated fat, lots of calcium,
phosphorus, and B vitamins, and an extremely low ratio of
calories to protein. In fact, the amount of usable protein
contained in just one cup of cooked soybeans is equal to
that in a five-ounce steak ... at a cost of only 234
calories!
The whole soybean itself can be used in a
multitude of ways, because its bland taste is a natural
"sponge" for almost any spice, herb, or dairy product.
However, even when presoaked, soybeans take a long time to
cook (about three hours by normal methods or 30-40 minutes
in a pressure cooker), so it's best to make a
double—or even triple—batch each time and
freeze the leftovers. After cooking, they can be baked
whole in casseroles (they're especially flavorful with
cheese), added to soups, or stuffed into peppers... or you
might want to mash them and add seasonings to make soy
patties, loaves, cold sandwich spreads, or meatless
"meatballs."
Soy flour is another, somewhat "sneakier," way to
enjoy the solid nutritional bonus of soybeans. Simply add
two tablespoons of soy flour to every cup of regular flour
used in a recipe... and you'll have a nice low-fat,
high-protein supplement that won't affect the dish's taste.
(Soy flour is not normally used as the sole flour in bread
making, since it contains no gluten, the "elastic" that is
responsible for making the dough rise.)
Ah, tofu . This lovely, nutritious soy food has
long graced oriental kitchens, and now it's migrating
westward as well, fast outstripping all other soy foods in
popularity. Sold most commonly in 12- or 16-ounce blocks,
tofu (or soybean curd) is a creamy, low-calorie food that's
packed with protein (which is increased even further when
it's combined with rice or other grains).
Next time you're steaming vegetables, pop a few cakes of
tofu right on top and—when they're warmed
through—remove them from the pot and season them with
soy sauce or tamari. You can also broil individual tofu
cakes: Spread a generous layer of dark miso (fermented
soybean paste that's available in health food stores) over
the surface of each one, then place under your oven's
broiler for five minutes... and you'll have a naturally
salty treat.
Tofu can also be sliced and lightly fried in oil with a
breading of cornmeal (or any flour you'd prefer),
nutritional yeast, and salt and pepper. Use the browned
tofu slices to create open-faced sandwiches (dressed with
grated carrots, a sliced tomato, chopped onions, sprouts or
lettuce, and spicy mustard), or dunk them into your
favorite fondue or dipping sauce. If the tofu is cut into
long, thin sticks before frying, you can wrap the cooked
morsels in sheets of paper-thin nori seaweed, moisten the
edges to make a seal, and pop them into your mouth as
unusual hors d'oeuvres. Or marinate your tofu in a sauce
that contains tamari, vinegar, and herbs... then fry as
usual.
Cookbooks
While it's impossible to list all of the excellent
vegetarian cookbooks that are on the market these days, the
following selection of standard vegetarian texts should get
you started in developing your own vegetarian cooking
library. You should be able to find most of these books at
your local library or bookstore, and you can also order
them from the addresses given below.
[1] Farm Vegetarian Cookbook , edited
by Louise Hagler, is available for $6.95 plus $1.00 for
shipping and handling from The Book Publishing Company,
P.O. Box 99, Summertown, TN 38483. Ms. Hagler has also
editedTofu Cookery , which is
available from Mother's Bookshelf (105 Stoney Mountain Rd.,
Hendersonville; NC 28791) for $9.95 plus $1.50 for shipping
and handling.
[2] Laurel's Kitchen: A Handbook for Vegetarian
Cookery and Nutrition , by Laurel Robertson et
al., is a definite must for a vegetarian kitchen. You can
order it for $4.95 plus $1.25 shipping and handling from
Bantam Books, Inc., 414 E. Golf Rd., Des Plaines, IL
60016.
[3] Frances Moore Lappé'sDiet for
a Small Planet(10th Anniversary Edition) is
an invaluable guide to protein pairing and an excellent
overview of the world food situation (and what you can do
about it). The book is available for $9.95 plus $1.00 for
shipping and handling from Ten Speed Press, P.O. Box 7123,
Berkeley, CA 94707.
[4] The Moosewood Cookbook and The Enchanted
Broccoli Forest: And Other Timeless Delicacies ,
by Mollie Katzen, are two of the best collections of
vegetarian recipes. You can order the books for $9.95 and
$11.95, respectively, from Ten Speed Press al the address
given above (include $1.00 per book for shipping and
handling).
[5] Another excellent two-volume set—this one
with a refined European flair—isThe
Vegetarian EpicureandThe
Vegetarian Epicure, Book Two , by Anna Thomas.
These books are available for $7.95 and $8.95,
respectively, from Random House, Inc., 400 Hahn Rd.,
Westminster, MD 21157 (include $1.00 per book for shipping
and handling).
[6] The Book of Tofu(Revised
Edition), by William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, is a
complete guide to making and cooking with tofu, soymilk,
and okara. It's available for $11.95 plus $1.50 for
shipping and handling from Mother's Bookshelf at the
address given above.
[7] The Deaf Smith Country Cookbook ,
by Marjorie Winn Ford et al., is chock-full of
easy-to-prepare, tasty vegetarian recipes. It's available
for $6.95 plus 35¢ for shipping and handling from
Macmillan Publishing, Order Department, Front and Brown
Sts., Riverside, NJ 08075.
Another fun—and, as it turns out, very
traditional—way to prepare tofu is to convert it into
age (ah-GAY), a deep-fried soy curd. First, press your tofu
between absorbent towels with a cutting board and weight on
top for about an hour. Then slice it into thin pieces or
small cubes, and deep-fry them in 3-4 inches of vegetable
oil until they float to the top and turn golden brown.
Agé has a delicious crunchy texture and can be used
in an almost infinite number of ways, thanks to its firm
shape and low water content (enabling it to absorb flavors
even more readily than regular tofu). You can broil chunks
of agé along with vegetable pieces for a meatless
shish kebab... sauté agé cubes along with
mushrooms, bean sprouts, and grated gingerroot in a
traditional oriental stir-fry ... or use them to "beef up"
a hearty winter stew.
The rest of this mini-manual will have more ideas that
should help make venturing into this brave new world of
vegetarian cookery even more worthwhile!
Sumptuous Soybean Repasts
Barbara Heller
It's hard to find a more healthful (or less expensive) food
than the soybean. This versatile legume—which can be
prepared in a multitude of ways, from soymilk to "ice bean"
desserts to fermented tempeh—is low in starch and
devoid of cholesterol while being high in protein,
minerals, vitamins, and lecithin. The following four
soybean recipes (which have been kitchen-tested in my home
by three hungry men and rated excellent) should help you on
your way to discovering a nutritious, tasty, low-meat diet.
PREPARING THE BEANS
Although the fastest way to cook soybeans (or any other
dried bean) is in a pressure cooker—unsoaked soybeans
will take about 40 minutes at 15 pounds of pressure—I
generally prefer to soak the beans overnight and simmer
them the next evening. I usually cook one or two pounds of
soybeans each week, leaving half of them whole and grinding
up the rest in my food mill. In this way, a single cooking
gives me the basis for a week's meals with a minimum of
effort. I also save and store the nutritious cooking water
for later use in soups, breads, and other dishes.
To prepare your beans for cooking, sort through them and
discard any discolored kernels, then rinse them. Presoak
the beans by adding enough water to a pound of soybeans so
that they're covered with two inches of liquid, and store
them in the refrigerator overnight (the beans will nearly
triple in size, so use a big pot).
After the legumes have soaked, skim off the film that will
have formed, add a teaspoon of salt (and more water, if
necessary), and bring the pot to a boil. Then reduce the
heat and let the beans simmer until they're tender, a
process that usually takes about three hours. When properly
cooked, the soybeans should squish easily, but if they're
too tender, they'll form a paste when you grind them up.
BARBECUED SOYBEANS
4 cups of cooked soybeans (you can substitute other beans
for part of the soybeans or use 1 cup of cooked mixed
vegetables in place of 1 cup of soybeans)
3/4 cup of catsup
1/4 cup of mustard
1/4 cup of molasses
2 tablespoons of brown sugar
1 teaspoon of chili powder
1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder a dash of Worcestershire
sauce
To make this high-protein baked bean dish, combine the
beans with the sauce ingredients and bake, covered, in a
loaf pan in a 300°F oven for 2 to 3 hours. (For a
sweeter, less spicy sauce, you might want to omit the chili
powder and increase the sugar to 1/4 cup.)
SOY-VEGETABLE LOAF
Loaf:
3 to 4 cups of cooked soybeans, ground
2 carrots, grated
1 onion, diced
1/2 pepper, diced
1/2 cup of wheat germ
1/2 cup of bread crumbs
2 tablespoons of soy flour
1 teaspoon of paprika
1 teaspoon of salt
1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder
1/2 cup of yogurt
2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons of oil
Topping:
2 teaspoons of molasses
2 teaspoons of catsup
4 teaspoons of mustard
1 teaspoon of curry powder
Combine the main ingredients in the order given and place
the mixture in a loaf pan. Drizzle the topping over the
loaf and bake it in a 350°F oven for 45 minutes, or
until firm.
SPAGHETTI AND BEANBALLS
2-1/2 cups of cooked soybeans, ground
1/2 cup of wheat germ
3 tablespoons of grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons of chopped scallions or parsley
2 cloves of garlic, minced (or
1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder)
salt and pepper to taste wheat germ (for coating the
beanballs) butter or margarine spaghetti noodles and your
favorite tomato sauce
Mix together the first six ingredients and shape the
resulting dough into 15 to 20 balls about 1-1/2" in
diameter. Coat the balls with more wheat germ and then fry
them in butter or margarine until they're lightly browned,
turning them frequently as they cook. Then drop the
beanballs into your favorite spaghetti sauce and simmer for
10 minutes. Serve over a bed of steaming spaghetti.
SOYBEAN-CABBAGE CASSEROLE
1 large cabbage (about 2 pounds), shredded
3 tablespoons of oil
1 tablespoon of soy sauce or tamari
1/2 teaspoon of sugar
1 teaspoon of salt
2 cups of cooked soybeans, ground
1 tablespoon of whole wheat or unbleached white flour
1 egg dash of pepper
1/2 cup of milk butter or margarine
In a large skillet, sauté the cabbage in the oil
until it wilts, then add the soy sauce, sugar, and
half of the salt. Cook this mixture, covered, for
another 15 minutes. While that simmers, combine the
soybeans, flour, egg, pepper, and remaining salt, then
gradually stir in the milk. Alternate layers of cabbage and
bean mixture, beginning and ending with the cabbage, in a
greased two-quart baking dish . . . dot the casserole with
butter or margarine . . . and bake it in a 350°F oven
for about an hour.
From the Cookfires of the World
Judith Klinger
You have to wonder when you see a 95-pound woman carrying a
200-pound load on her back over the Himalayan trails from
dawn to dusk... and be still more amazed to discover that
her body is fueled by rice and dhal. And you may be further
surprised to learn that these simple foods—in the
proper combinations—produce complete proteins,
provide plenty of energy, and lend themselves to so much
variety in preparation that even finicky tastes can be
intrigued and convened.
The cookfires of the world offer many techniques for
achieving a healthful diet while slashing food costs. These
include developing new avenues of taste, focusing on foods
in season, relying on low-cost carbohydrates as staple
foods, using nonmeat forms of protein (and for those folks
in transition to a vegetarian lifestyle, serving meat as a
condiment rather than as a main dish), seasoning basic
foods with a wide range of herbs and spices, and utilizing
all leftovers.
My family and I used these methods of eating nutritious,
low-cost meals during our backpacking trips to more than
100 countries around the world. Our son, Greg, who was four
years old when we started our ten-month sabbatical,
remembers meals of rice and dhal that he consumed in Nepal
after hiking 14 miles or more in one day... and Laurie, one
year of age at the time, developed an appetite for whatever
came her way. Today, back in a suburban community, our
family spends only $30 to $35 a week on food—$2,500 a
year less than the U.S. average for a family of
four—while actually enjoying a better diet than the
typical American. Here's how it's done.
DEVELOP NEW AVENUES OF TASTE
The primary step in cutting a family's food budget is to
Stretch tastes to include more types of food. In changing
over to a vegetarian diet, you'll be introduced to new and
delicious combinations of edibles. Study the cuisines of
different cultures and look for low-cost staples that can
be adapted to your new way of cooking. Select the unusual
and inexpensive: A fruit cup tossed with unsweetened
coconut (bought in bulk), for instance, offers a special
touch associated with the South Pacific. Bananas—a
staple in the tropics—are often inexpensive in this
country. Try baking and sautéing them, whipping them
into drinks, or drying banana slices for snacks and
brown-bag lunches.
Let your crew at home help select countries from which
they'd like to try foods. Huevos rancheros (eggs with spicy
sauce), burritos, and tacos from Mexico are all made with
healthy, inexpensive foods... as are meals of all-vegetable
Indian curries served with rice and sliced cucumbers tossed
with yogurt.
TO EVERY FOOD THERE IS A SEASON
In season is the time to buy. (In most countries of the
world, where refrigeration is still a luxury, it is the
only time to buy.) In the United States, we have great
diversity in seasonal shopping, and newspapers often list
the best buys at farmers' markets or similar produce
centers. And, of course, if you're not already raising your
own vegetables, consider picking up a spade. Subsistence
farming is the normal way of life around the globe.
For the colder months, don't forget minigardens for
powerfully good eating. Your kitchen can produce impressive
quantities of sprouts—alfalfa, mung, and soybean...
radish, cabbage, lentil, and wheat berry.
Canned goods also have seasonal fluctuations. Shop ahead,
filling your larder as distributors seek to get foods out
of the warehouse and off the supermarket shelves to make
way for new harvests. Watch for such items as green beans,
peas, corn, tomato products, frozen fruits and vegetables,
and even nuts.
THE STAPLE FOODS
Throughout most of
the world, people subsist on a few foods that can actually
be counted on one hand: rice, wheat, or similar whole
grains... corn... and potatoes or other roots and tubers.
Add dried beans and you have the world's least expensive
foods. What's more, these basic edibles require little
processing (they're most nutritious when least processed),
store easily in limited spaces, and lend themselves to a
variety of cooking methods. Let's look at several of them
more closely.
Legumes. Among the first plants ever
cultivated, beans are still a great bargain. They're rich
in protein, vitamins, and minerals, and when paired with
whole grains, nuts and seeds, or dairy products, they
provide complete proteins capable of replenishing the
body's needs (so that you or the women on the Himalayan
trails can keep going strong). Today, even greater emphasis
is being placed on legumes as pan of the solution for a
hungry world that cannot hope to exist with meat as a
primary protein source.
Of all legume dishes, one of the simplest to prepare is
dhal. This Indian standard may be seasoned to suit your
tastes and served over a bed of rice as a nutritious main
dish. The following recipe adds cabbage, a "hardware
vegetable" that's easy to store for long periods of time.
DHAL WITH CABBAGE
1 cup of lentils or yellow split peas
1 medium onion, sliced
2 cups (or more) of water or vegetable stock
2 cups of shredded cabbage
1 /4 cup of olive or vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 clove of garlic (or 1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder)
1 small tomato, diced (or 1 tablespoon of tomato
paste)
1 teaspoon of ground cumin
1 teaspoon of turmeric
1/2 teaspoon of mustard
1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon of ginger
1/4 teaspoon of ground coriander
4 whole cloves
2 tablespoons of lemon juice salt to taste
In a saucepan, boil the lentils or peas and the first onion
in the water for about 15 minutes. Next, add the cabbage
and continue cooking until the lentils are soft, adding
more water if needed. Now, in a skillet, heat the oil and
saute the second onion and garlic until they're golden,
then add the tomato and seasonings (except the salt) and
cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes.
Add the lemon juice, stir the mixture into the lentils, add
salt as desired, and serve the dhal over steaming-hot brown
rice. Accompany the dish with such condiments as sliced
bananas, cucumbers with yogurt, or chopped tomatoes, green
peppers, and raw onions. This recipe will provide four
portions.
Here's another easy-to-prepare legume dish, one that's
popular in the Caribbean.
CUBAN BLACK BEANS AND RICE
1 pound of black or turtle beans
3 cups of water or vegetable stock
1/2 cup of olive or vegetable oil
1 cup of chopped onion
1 clove of garlic, minced
1 green pepper, diced
2 teaspoons of salt
1 teaspoon of ground pepper
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons of tamari
1/4 cup of wine vinegar hot cooked rice onion and
hard-boiled eggs for garnish
Rinse the beans and cover them with water to soak
overnight. The next day, drain the legumes, add about 3
cups of fresh water, and bring to a boil. While they're
cooking, sauté the onion, garlic, and green pepper
in oil, and when tender, add them to the beans along with
the seasonings, tamari, and wine vinegar. Cover the pot and
simmer the mixture until the beans are soft, adding more
water if needed. Serve with hot brown rice and a garnish of
chopped raw onion and sliced hard-boiled eggs. This recipe
provides six generous portions.
Another way to use legumes is in sandwich fillings.
Falafel, a Middle Eastern dish, is made by forming a bean
mixture into small balls, deep-frying them, and tucking
them into pita bread.
FALAFEL
4 cups of cooked garbanzo beans (2 cups soaked overnight
and boiled until soft)
1 medium potato, cooked and mashed
1 or 2 eggs, beaten
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley
1-1/2 teaspoons of salt (or more)
1 teaspoon of paprika
1/2 teaspoon of ground coriander or cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon of ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon of black pepper dash of cayenne juice of
1 lemon flour or fine bread crumbs vegetable oil
Drain and mash the cooked beans, then combine them with the
potato, egg, onion, garlic, parsley, spices, and lemon
juice. Chill the batter well, then form it into walnut-size
balls and dust each one with flour or bread crumbs. Fry the
rounds in 1-1/2" of hot oil in a heavy skillet until
browned, then drain them on brown paper and serve them
stuffed into pita bread, rolls, or french bread and
garnished with yogurt, chopped tomatoes, and onions or
shredded lettuce and tahini dressing. This recipe will feed
about six.
Whole grains. In the Western world, we are
just now rediscovering the importance of using whole
grains. This group of foods requires only small additions
of legumes or dairy products to create complete protein
combinations. Serve barley as a side dish, millet as
porridge, and oats not only for cereals and breads but
also—buttered and browned—for crumb toppings.
Rice, perhaps the most universal food, can be served in
main dishes, desserts, and salads.
The Japanese call rice go-han , with han
meaning "rice" and go meaning "highest reverence."
This is the staple food for two-thirds of the world's
people. For the most nutrition, rely on brown rice, which
has the germ and most of the bran layer intact. One cup of
brown rice provides 15 grams of protein and 154 grams of
carbohydrate, while one cup of white rice has only about 4
grams of protein and 50 grams of carbohydrate. Brown rice
also has double the iron and triple the calcium, niacin,
and B1 and B2 vitamins, and it's high in phosphorus and
sodium. What's more, brown rice just plain tastes
better!
To save time and energy, always make rice in double
batches, then use it in casseroles, egg dishes, salads,
puddings, and stir-fried meals. Fried rice is quick to fix
and unbeatable as a tasty money saver. Vary the dish by
adding onions, shredded carrots, slivered green peppers and
beans, minced cauliflower or broccoli, fresh sprouts, and
thinly sliced zucchini. To turn the rice into a complete
meal, add eggs, tofu, or cheese.
Pilaf is served in India and Pakistan for festive
occasions, and can be made with just about any grain. Try
substituting millet, cracked wheat, triticale, or barley in
the following recipe.
BASIC RICE PILAF
1 onion, diced
1/4 cup of chopped mushrooms
1 small carrot, diced
1 stalk of celery or a green pepper, diced
2-3 tablespoons of olive or vegetable oil
1 cup of raw brown rice
2 cups of vegetable stock or water
1 teaspoon of curry powder or a combination of the
following:
1 bay leaf a few cardamom seeds
1/2 teaspoon of turmeric
1/2 teaspoon of ginger
1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon of cumin
1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon
4 whole cloves
1/2 cup of chopped peanuts, pine nuts, sunflower seeds, or
almonds
1/2 cup of raisins, currants, or other dried fruit
1 teaspoon of salt
Sauté the vegetables in the oil. When they're
tender, add the rice and stir over moderate heat until the
grains are dry. Then add the spices (except the salt) and
the vegetable stock, cover, and cook for 20 minutes over
low heat. Sprinkle in nuts, dried fruit, and salt and cook
10 minutes more. Check the seasonings, adding more salt if
desired, and fluff just before serving. To make pilaf a
main dish, melt cheese over the top or serve it with beans
or a yogurt salad.
Tofu: Press It, You’ll Like It
Helen Prescott
What food contains more protein than an omelet, more iron
than spinach, and as much calcium as cottage
cheese—all for as little as 25¢ per homemade
pound? You guessed it: tofu. When my family was introduced
to this oriental import, it was love at first bite. We were
soon feasting on scrambled tofu for breakfast, sipping tofu
shakes with lunch, enjoying bean curd burgers for dinner,
and savoring slices of soy cheesecake for dessert.
However, with the nearest health food store some 30 miles
away and our favorite food selling for $1.30 a pound, it
wasn't long before our appetites outdistanced our
pocketbooks. Necessity demanded that we make our own tofu,
so for a few weeks I diligently mashed, boiled, strained,
and curdled the soybeans... and usually came up with only a
pound of bean curd to show for several hours' work. The
results were tasty, though, and rather than becoming
discouraged by our small return, we were all the more
determined to make the process economically feasible.
The answer to our predicament was a homemade wooden press
that can hold as much as 15 or as little as 2 pounds of soy
cheese at one time. This efficient device enables me to
strain the initial soymilk-and-mash mixture and to press
the bean curd while the liquid is still near boiling, thus
speeding up the tofu-making operation and sparing me some
burned fingers and spilled whey. The press cuts down on the
waste of useful by-products, as well: Since the bottom edge
of the contraption fits snugly over a large basin, it's an
easy matter to save the whey for use in baked goods, soups,
or pet food. And when the tofu is firm, the front panel of
the press lifts out to let the curd be cut and removed
easily. What's more, the implement cost us only about $5.00
in materials and took a mere two hours to construct . . .
and it saves us more than a dollar per pound of tofu each
time we use it.
BUILDING THE PRESS . . .
To make a tofu press, you'll need an assortment of pine
lumber and plywood (our design requires 5' of 1 X 6 pine
board for the sides, a 1' section of 1 X 12 pine board for
the lid, and a 12-1/2" X 13-1/2" piece of 1/4" plywood for
the base)... 18 to 20 No. 6 X 1-1/4" rustproof wood
screws... a drill with 1/8", 9/64", and 3/16" bits... a
circular saw or a handsaw... a chisel... a screwdriver...
some sandpaper... and enough vegetable oil to coat the
finished product.
First off, you'll need to decide what you'll be using to
catch the soymilk and whey as they strain through the
press, because it's best to make that container a permanent
part of your tofu operation. The catching vessel should
hold at least five gallons of liquid and be able to
withstand temperatures up to 212°F. Our press is
designed to fit snugly over a stainless steel basin that
sits in our kitchen sink. Whatever container you
choose—whether it's a plastic tub, large bucket,
enameled canning pot, or similar vessel—you'll want
to design your press so that two of its sides hang several
inches over the edge of your catching pot, while the
perforated bottom rests almost an inch below the top. (This
design prevents the press from sliding off center and
splashing out boiling liquid.)
Once you've calculated the size of your press, cut the two
sides out of the 1 X 6 pine board (ours measure 16-1/2" in
length). At each end of the side sections, cut out a small
rectangle 3/4" up from the base and 2" in from the sides.
Directly in from this indentation, cut a 3/4 "-wide
vertical slice 1/4" into the panel, as shown in the
drawing. (Because commercial lumber is measured before it
runs through a planer, your 1 X 6 board will actually be
3/4" X 5-3/8". . . which is why the groove is 3/4" wide.)
Next, cut the front and back pieces from the remaining 1 X
6 board (ours are 12-1/2" long). These sections should fit
securely into the side grooves. Thoroughly sand all the
pieces and secure the back panel into place with four
screws. The front panel is not screwed in, instead, it
merely rests in the opposite slots so that you can slide it
up and remove the pressed bean cheese with ease.
With that done, cut a base from the 1/4" plywood—ours
measures 12-1/2" X 13-1/2"—sand it, and screw it onto
the back and side panels, using four or five fasteners per
side. Next, on the underside of the press, pencil a grid of
3/4" squares 1-1/2" in from each side and drill
holes—using the 3/16" bit—at each crossing to
allow for drainage. Then sand the board again, making sure
to remove any loose chips in the holes.
Now measure to determine the appropriate size for the
cover. The lid should slide easily down into the press to
help squeeze out extra liquid, so leave about a l/8"gap on
each side between the panels and the cover (our lid
measures 10-3/4" X 11-3/4"). Cut the "cap" from the 1 X 12
pine board and sand it smooth.
Choose a scrap of wood to form a handle for the lid. We
used a coping saw to shape an elegantly curved handle, but
a simple 1" section of 1 X 6 would certainly work. Sand the
handle and attach it to the center of the lid, using two
screws.
All that's needed now is a quick coating of vegetable oil
to protect the wood . . . and you're in (the tofu)
business.
. . . AND USING IT
There are probably as many different ways to make tofu as
there are varieties of this creamy soy cheese. William
Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, authors of The Book of
Tofu , describe visiting hundreds of Japanese tofu
masters, each of whom employed his or her own particular
method of making bean curd. The most widely used method in
this country is what I call the "two-step tofu technique,"
which produces a soy cheese very high in protein. To make 5
pounds of tofu using this method, you'll need 4 cups of
dried whole soybeans, 10 to 12 quarts of water, and 2
tablespoons of nigari (a sea salt derivative used to curdle
the milk) dissolved in 1 cup of water. (You can use other
curdling agents, as well. Nigari forms large curds and adds
extra minerals to the final product, while lemon or lime
juice or cider vinegar makes a softer—and more
tart—cheese. When substituting the juice for the
nigari, use six times the amount called for and don't
dilute it with water. Epsom salts, which can be used in the
same amounts as nigari, is perhaps the least desirable
coagulant, as it gives a slightly salty taste to the cheese
and renders the whey inedible.)
Sort the dried beans and soak them overnight in about 12
cups of cold water. Then rinse the beans and puree them in
a blender, using 1 cup of soaked beans to each quart of
water (you can also use a food grinder or processor for
this step, adapting as necessary). Pour the resulting slush
into a large cooking vessel and bring it to a boil. Then
reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring
continually. This is one instance in which it pays to watch
the pot: Soymilk can foam up and boil over very quickly.
When the mixture has cooked for the allotted time, situate
your cheesecloth-lined press over the catch container and
pour the hot liquid through. Cover the strained mash, or
okara, with the folds of cloth, place the lid over
it, and push down slowly to force out any excess soymilk.
At this point, you might want to set aside a quart or two
of fresh soymilk (it's especially tasty when mixed with a
teaspoon of honey). Save the okara for later use, too.
Now, rinse out the large kettle and return the soymilk to
the pot. Bring it to a near boil, then turn off the heat.
Next, stir the liquid rapidly in one direction, pour in 1/3
cup of the diluted nigari, stir once or twice in the
opposite direction, sprinkle in another 1/3 cup of the salt
mixture, and cover the pot. After 3 minutes, lift the lid
and softly poke the curds to determine if the whey has
completely separated. If the whey is still milky, add the
last 1/3 cup of the solution, stir it briefly, and wait
another couple of minutes.
When the milk has completely curdled, pour it slowly
through your cheesecloth-lined press, cover the curds with
the cloth, place the lid on top... and plan on enjoying a
delicious meal of tofu in about four hours.
EDITOR'S NOTE: Suggestions/or serving tofu and other
soy foods can be found in the main article of this
mini-manual. . . and for more detailed recipes, you can
consult the cookbooks given in the source list. Back issues
of MOTHER contain a wealth of information on and recipes
for using tofu, as well: Issues 39-45 include a series of
excerpts from The Book of Tofu, by William Shurtleff and
Akiko Aoyagi, and more recent articles include "Cooking
With Tofu" (No. 65, page 124) and "Toothsome Tofu Pies"
(No. 87, page 42).
Ms. Prescott, author of this article, also contributed
some recipes that use the leftover okara from making
tofu... and you'll find these on page 36 of MOTHER NO.
83.
Favorite Vegetarian Victuals
Something about food has a way of grabbing folks'
attention. As soon as word got out around the office that
we were doing a meatless mini-manual, various staffers
began bringing in the recipes for their favorite vegetarian
dishes.
So, in the spirit of sharing a good thing, here are some of
those offerings, gleaned from various kitchens and
cookbooks.
TAMALE PIE
This recipe is one of those staff-of-life dishes:
Nutritionally, it's an excellent combination of ingredients
that complement one another in proteins, and its rich, full
flavor of beans and corn makes it a family favorite.
Group I:
2 cups of cooked pinto or kidney beans
1 tablespoon of tomato paste
3 tablespoons of water
2 tablespoons of oil
1/2 cup of chopped onion
1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder
1 teaspoon of chili powder
1 teaspoon of salt
1/4 cup of sliced ripe olives
1/2 cup of fresh corn
1/2 green pepper, chopped
1/4 cup of chopped parsley
1/2 cup of chopped celery
Group II:
2-1/2 cups of cold water
1-1/2 cups of cornmeal
1 teaspoon of salt
1/2 teaspoon of chili powder
1/4 cup of grated cheese (or more)
Grind the beans in a blender or food mill, combine the
tomato paste with the water, then set these aside while you
sauté the onion in the oil. Combine all the Group I
ingredients and let them cook over medium heat, stirring to
prevent the beans from sticking. Adjust the seasonings to
taste.
Next, combine all the ingredients in Group II, except the
cheese, in a heavy skillet, and cook over medium heat,
stirring constantly, until the cornmeal thickens and comes
to a boil. Then spread 2/3 of the cornmeal mixture over the
bottom and sides of a greased 8" X 8" pan . . . pour the
bean mixture into the cornmeal crust... and spread the
remaining cornmeal on top. Sprinkle the top crust with the
cheese and cook in a 350°F oven for 1/2 hour.
GREEN RICE CASSEROLE
This recipe, contributed by one of MOM'S staffers, is
extremely easy to fix and provides a good use for leftover
vegetables.
1-1/3 cups of evaporated milk or light cream
1/2 cup of vegetable oil
3 eggs
2 teaspoons of salt
1/4 teaspoon of pepper
1/2 teaspoon of minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon of Italian herbs
3 cups of cooked brown rice
1/4 cup of chopped onion
2/3 cup of chopped carrots
2 bunches of fresh spinach, steamed slightly (or 1 10-ounce
package of frozen spinach, thawed) leftover vegetables
added to taste
3 cups of shredded sharp cheese
In a large bowl, beat the milk, oil, and eggs until well
blended, then mix in the seasonings. Next, add all of the
remaining ingredients except for 1 cup of the cheese, and
mix well. Now, transfer the ingredients to a lightly
greased 3-quart casserole dish and place the remaining cup
of cheese on top. Bake at 400°F for 1-1/2 hours.
PERFECT PROTEIN SALAD
This recipe's a favorite with several of MOM'S staffers...
it's good for you as well as good-tasting!
3/4 cup of raw soybeans
3/4 cup of raw rye or wheat berries one of each, diced:
scallion, carrot, cucumber, red onion pepper, stalk of
celery
1 cup of cottage cheese
Marinade:
1/2 cup of cider vinegar
1/2 cup of mayonnaise
2 tablespoons of dry white wine juice of 1 lemon or
lime
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon of fresh fennel or dill
1/4 teaspoon of dry mustard
1/2 cup of freshly chopped parsley dash of basil salt and
pepper to taste
Cook the soybeans and rye or wheat berries until tender,
then add them to the marinade and chill the mixture. Add
the diced vegetables, and then combine everything with the
cottage cheese. Serve with alfalfa sprouts and tomato
slices.
SAVORY CHEESE AND ONION PIE
pastry for a 10" pie shell
10 ounces of cheese, grated (1/2 Swiss and 1/2 Gruyere
suggested)
2 tablespoons of flour
2 large onions, sliced
4 tablespoons of butter
1 teaspoon of freshly chopped basil
2 large, firm tomatoes, sliced
2 large eggs
3/4 cup of cream nutmeg (optional)
Line a 10" pie dish with your favorite pastry and chill it.
Then toss the cheese with the flour and set it aside. Melt
the butter in a large skillet and sauté the onions
until they begin to turn golden. Spread about 1/3 of the
cheese over the bottom of the pie dish, then layer the
onions on top. In the butter that's left in the pan, heat
the tomato slices with the chopped basil for a minute or
two, then arrange the mixture over the onions, and cover
with the remaining cheese.
Next, beat the eggs with the cream and pour over the
cheese. Sprinkle a little nutmeg on top, if desired, and
bake the pie in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 40
minutes, or until the top browns nicely. Serve hot, in
wedges, to six hungry cheese lovers.
EDITOR'S NOTE: The Tamale Pie recipe is reprinted from
Laurel's Kitchen, by Laurel Robertson et al. (copyright
© 1976 by Nilgiri Press), with permission of the
publisher. The Perfect Protein Salad recipe is reprinted
from The Moosewood Cookbook, by Mollie Katzen (copyright
© 1977 by Mollie Katzen), with permission of the
publisher, Ten Speed Press. The Savory Cheese and Onion Pie
recipe is reprinted from The Vegetarian Epicure, by Anna
Thomas (copyright © 1972 by Anna Thomas), with
permission of the publisher, Random House. For access
information, see above.
