A SAFE, NO-COST FRUIT AND BERRY FUNGICIDE
by Celine Caron
RELATED CONTENT
remove mildew from white cotton items such as sheets and T-shirts, mix a box of baking soda...
You can use vinegar in place of many commercial products for cleaning, removing mold and mildew, an...
Garden soil is happier and healthier when it is disturbed less. Add more mulch and use non-tilling ...
THE NEWSPAPER YOU READ TODAY MAY BE YOUR FOOD TOMORROW November/December 1973 THE NEWSPAPER YOU REA...
Research briefs on mulch as irrigation aid, cross pollinating chile peppers, garlic sprays for mild...
People who live in wet climates are often all too familiar
with the effects of mildew on such plants as gooseberries,
currants, raspberries, grapes, phlox, and roses ... and if
the same individuals keep fruit trees, they're probably
acquainted with apple or pear scab (Venturia
inaequalis) as well. Many commonly used wholistic
controls aren't terribly effective against these fungi ...
while more potent fiingicides-including lime sulfur-do
indeed destroy mildew and scab but, unfortunately, also
kill Anthocoris musculus, a valuable predator of
mites and aphids.
The dilemma does have a resolution, though ... and
it came about through the work of an English entomologist,
Dr. Peggy Ellis. Since commercial fruit growers commonly
spray a 5% solution of synthetic urea on fallen leaves to
control apple and pear scab, Dr. Ellis reasoned that human
urinewhich contains 2 to 4% urea, depending on the
diet-could serve the same purpose.
The entomologist first tested her theory on a backyard
gooseberry patch ... and was pleased to find that the urine
was extremely effective in combating a mildew problem that
had afflicted the plants. Encouraged by this success, she
reported her discovery to the members of the Henry
Doubleday Research Association in the fall of 1978. As a
result of her report, I soon became aware of this
breakthrough in wholistic fungus control. And since my own
currant crop was plagued with a severe mildew problem at
the time, I was able to test the remedy immediately ... and
my results were every bit as good as those that Dr. Ellis
had observed.
More work has been done-on both a formal and an informal
grower-to-grower level-over the past few years, and the
success record is impressive enough to make me want to pass
the news of this technique along to MOTHER's fruit-growing
readers.
UREA . . . I'LL NEVER STOP SAYING UREA
Thanks to the research completed thus far, it's possible to
outline both preventive and curative urine treatments. In
either case, though, be aware that undiluted urine will
sometimes scorch leaves and could kill foliage, so the
substance should generally be used in its pure form only on
dormant wood.
PREVENTIVE TREATMENT
Step 1: Spray straight urine on trees and shrubs just
before the leaves fall in the autumn ... or soon thereafter
(in this case, of course, leaf burn won't be a problem).
Make sure, too, that the ground beneath the plants-out to
the drip line-is well covered with the liquid ... as this
precautionary measure will destroy any spores present on
the fallen leaves.