How To Build Your Own Forge
September/October 1975
by JIMMY FIKES
RELATED ARTICLES
Using water pressure to make free compressed air....
With motivation, hard word and an internet connection, the dream of going back to the land is more ...
How to build a yard and garden cart you can use in all seasons, including tool caddy, detailed diag...
Homes made from natural, earthen materials are affordable, comfortable, sustainable and enduring, i...
Mention the word "blacksmithing" to most folks nowadays, and they'll probably conjure up a mental image of someone shoeing a horse. To homesteaders who master the basics of the craft, though, smithing can mean far more: the making of hinges, latches for doors and windows, shutter catches, door knockers, lightning rods, gutter hooks, beam end braces . . . kitchen utensils such as knives, meat forks, skewers, strainers, ladies, vegetable choppers, andirons, log tongs, pokers, trivets, fireplace cranes, trammels, pothooks, candleholders, chandeliers, rushlights, and batty lamps . . . tools such as axes, froes, grabhooks, peaveys, wedges, hoes, rakes, nails, chisels, adzes, chains . . . and a wide variety of other items. Those who really master the craft (and are, like me, carnivores who believe in killing the meat they eat) can even build themselves flintlock rifles. This article—then—is for those of you who need metalwork done and can't find anyone to do it, can't afford to hire a smith, or would just plain enjoy tackling such jobs yourselves.
There are two requisites for the beginning blacksmith: [1] a high level of interest, tempered with the patience of Job, and [2] a shop. I can't give you the first, but I can help you set up the second. At present I'll deal mainly with the construction of a forge and the fuels for its operation . . . and hope for a later opportunity to outline the arrangement of the smith's tools and some actual techniques of blacksmithing.
THE FORGE
A forge can be set up almost anywhere personal preference dictates: in a house, basement, tipi, barn, dome, shed . . . or out under the sky. Smoke and fumes, however, can be a problem (how serious a problem depends on what fuel you use) . . . and if no chimney is available, a completely open forge—or one protected by a shed—is probably the best choice. (Caution: Any open fire consumes large amounts of oxygen and can be a health hazard in a poorly ventilated space. Also, incomplete combustion of coal and charcoal may cause the emission of deadly, odorless carbon monoxide gas. For safety's sake, please design your work area with these facts in mind.—MOTHER.)
Since money is quite scarce with some of us, I'll now begin by outlining the simplest and least expensive method of constructing a forge. You'll need the following basic materials: 2 X 4's (or 4 X 4's, small saplings, or whatever sturdy wood you can locate), some plywood or planking, dirt, 6 feet of 3 inch pipe, a modest amount of concrete, and a little patience.
A good size for the top of your forge is 3 X 5 feet. This gives you room for a healthy fire, with plenty of extra space to lay out tongs, shovel, poker, pieces of metal, and numerous other odds and ends. The frame should be about waist high so that you can work most efficiently as you move iron back and forth from forge to anvil. Decide on the ideal measurements for your own setup, and build a strong frame to those dimensions.
Page: 1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
Next >>