How to Make Saddle Soap

Learn how to make saddle soap with this recipe, which will help give your leather goods the care they need to stay supple and clean.

091-025-01

Saddle soap helps keep leather goods — such as bags, shoes and saddles — in good condition.

ILLUSTRATION: MOTHER EARTH NEWS EDITORS

Content Tools

Leather aficionados who want to keep their prized boots, bags, shoes, belts, chairs, harnesses and saddles in top condition need saddle soap. Not only does it clean away dirt and grit that dull leather's luster, but it also supplies the oils and waxes essential for long-lasting suppleness and protection.

To make inexpensive saddle soap at home, you'll need two pots (one of stainless steel or heat-resistant glass), a stainless steel spoon, short, wide-mouthed jars or empty commercial saddle soap containers, beeswax, pure flake lye, castile soap shavings, water and pure gum turpentine. (Beeswax and pure flake lye can be found at a hardware, candle, or grocery store.)

In the steel or tempered-glass pot, combine 6 ¼ parts beeswax, 10 parts pure flake lye and 10 parts water. Caution: Pure flake lye can burn and corrode skin, clothes and furniture, so be careful! Boil this mixture for five minutes, stirring constantly with the stainless steel spoon.

Next, in the second pot, melt 2 parts castile soap shavings with 10 parts water, mixing them with the well-rinsed spoon. When the soap liquefies, add it slowly to the lye-and-beeswax mixture, blending evenly until fully combined.

Next, remove the pot from any heat and stir in 15 parts of turpentine. (Watch out: Turpentine is highly flammable.) Pour immediately into containers; cover and keep in a cool, dry place. The soap can be kept indefinitely.

If you prepare the recipe with one part equaling one tablespoon, you'll have enough to fill four 8-ounce jars.

When you use the saddle soap, have two soft flannel cloths on hand. Soak and wring out one until almost dry, dip it into the soap, and rub the leather with a firm circular motion. Rinse that cloth in warm water, wring out, and then use it to remove any excess lather. Use the second dry cloth to polish the leather to a soft luster, and say goodbye to ugly-looking leather goods!

roslyn
3/31/2016 10:28:37 AM

Why is lye being used if the recipe only melts already made castile soap in water? What fat is there to saponify past the beeswax? And NEVER make a soap recipe based on "parts", only accurate weight measurements should be used to be assured that no excess lye is left in the recipe. Some reasoning behind the recipe would be good, as a soap maker it really doesn't make a lot of sense.


fran22
11/12/2014 7:13:58 PM

That would HAVE to be natural turpentine (i.e. liquid pine resin), NOT mineral turpentine, I'm thinking.


sounisoun
3/18/2014 8:19:01 PM

Pure flake lye = NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide)? if yes, be careful!, water in first, then NaOH and the beeswax


pearlheartgtr
11/7/2013 1:34:25 AM

Turpentine replaces the "Resin" or "Rosin" in the commercial saddle soaps. Turpentine is a solvent used in many cosmetics and soaps.


denice peters
3/4/2012 5:39:14 PM

Seriously? Turpentine? I would have been afraid to put that on my leather furniture. But I may try this.


giacobone
12/28/2008 3:10:09 PM

I just use plain castile to clean tack.....of course you need a seperate conditioner (i.e. Lederbalsam) with that approach. -g