Cutting Your Trees Into Your Own Lumber, Part 2

Reader Contribution by David Boyt
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In my previous blog, I wrote about preparations for having a sawyer bring a portable band mill onto your homestead to cut lumber.To sum up, have a good idea of what you want, so that the logs are sawn as efficiently as possibly.For example, if most of the lumber is going into a tool shed, how many 2x4s will you need, and how long?How much 3/4″ thick siding will you need?If you will be using a combination of custom sawn lumber and “store bought” lumber, let the sawyer know, so that he can match the dimensions (a store bought 2×4 is actually 1-1/2″ by 3-1/2″, and it seems like they keep getting smaller!).By the way, I realize that I’m being a sexist pig by referring to the sawyer as a “he”.In reality, most are, but as a writer for Sawmill & Woodlot Management magazine, I have met several ladies who would put most of us guys to shame. 

Placing a half-dozen of the poorer logs at the front of the pile will give you the opportunity to have some 6″ by 6″ “blocking” cut to stack the lumber on.The blocking gives a six-inch space between the boards and the ground.This allows air to pass

over both sides of the board so that it dries evenly.Otherwise, it WILL warp.Even if you plan to move the pile in the near future, take the time to stack it.Also, wood in ground contact starts decaying within weeks or months, depending on the species.This is good for a log out in the woods, but not for your lumber.Stack it right the first time. 

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