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"heater heatsink" walls Options
#1 Posted : Friday, June 20, 2003 12:57:06 AM
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Thank you pate, I copied this to my folder here on my puter where i am storing my files for building a house. It is a daunting task! I am so glad to find out today i can use lumber that i cut from my own land. There are alot of counties around here that have banned using air dried lumber or lumber that isn''t bought from a lumber yard.
That will be a big savings as i can get 1000 boardfeet cut up for 120 dollars. Hrmmmm I have alot of hardwoods on my property probably going to have to take out at least 20 hardwoods that are 2'' diameter, and 75'' tall. I ought to get some decent lumber! I am thinking about using some of the long ones as Beams for my house. That would look absolutely beautiful to have beams through it.
Oh and The plastic bottle idea is a good one. I am looking into using more than one thing in this house idea. That would be a excellent Thermal storage idea.
Now the hard part is finding me one of those Cement Mixers. I can rent one for 150 dollars a week but was hoping to find a used one for sale reasonable.
#2 Posted : Friday, June 20, 2003 1:07:45 PM
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Welcome. And hereby are some more!

Knowing where thee is, I suspect you have some nice ravines. Any large enough to drop a tractor trailer or ''18 wheel'' trailer in? Fill around (not over) and have a man made cave. Is not a ''permanent'' structure, considering the potential weight of the earth, but I have yet to see one fail. Here we have inspections, something I understand your state no longer has, so we can buy such trailers who''s ''rolling stock'' is marginal for very little. Two such, ground surface set, will be supporting the new deck here at the Librum. We used them for temporary storage of various items. I can also vouch that above or below ground, they make nice garages, shops, and/or storage. But not barns where livestock would be. The Librums ''pair'' is going to be expanded. Looks like we will use six. With a ''patio'' of pallet planks above, with some plastic, we will have a five ''stall'' open end garage. And you would have the ''stearage storage container'' types that we do not.

I prefer beams overhead. I never liked ''antiseptic'' drywall ceilings. Ours is exposed beam in portions. Yes, I am slowly ''wood tiling'' the walls. See pallet wood below.

As to the cement mixer, has thee looked into making your own? We have one such here, one of those blue plastic water barrels. It sits on a galvanized metal pipe chassis, the weight bearing pipe is sleaved and bushinged with grease zerts. By sleeved I mean one pipe in another, with the ''outer'' pipe threaded to hold ends forming gasket holders (reducers) to hold in grease. The gasket is the rubber rings in under-the-sink plumbing washer kits. The driving force is an old lawnmower with the self-propelled drive driving one wheel under the barrel. We could have used a sprocket or chain, but we did not have such handy at the time. This one has no ''tip'' mechanixm, we didn''t need/want one, as we were not doing ''slab'' pours. We also slapped a ''home generator wheel'' kit on ours. We use old style ''can scoops'' (a large can, with handle tacked to bottom) to fish product out as needed. We needed it for very soupy mud for slipstone, and not slab work, so it worked fine. It is also great for making stucco. Yes, we have replaced barrels and gaskets a few times. In Upton, Pa, we used an old front load washer, I don''t recall how the holes were plugged, but I am sure thee could think of several ways. I would also look around for a ''compost tumbler'', some of those are hearty enough to serve also.

I would NOT suggest the old hoe and trough. The back.

Another suggestion, on the ''homestead money'' vein. We have nearby several ''have bobcat will travel'' families. They found and refurbished a bobcat, used it to build the home, then went into business as independent contractors. You could do that. Here they charge about $21 an hour, with a $20 road charge, in a forty mile radius. Here, the trouble is taking the ''a'' and ''b'' contractors licence from the state. Come to think of it, one I know has a homemade cement mixer front mounted, to make and then take the mud whereever needed in the job site. That contractors test is a bear I understand. That is how we got our bobcat, he failed the exam. And to let drop another tip, men are not the best bobcat operators, something about the different sexes debth perceptions and they way the two types of minds work, so the Mrs could be the contractor. I certainly have little skill, there be evidence here to that effect. (egg on face).

OH!, almost forgot. Is there any restrictions against ''earthship'' there now? One thing I remember about that state is all the ''junk'' tires.

And don''t discard ''pallets''. We use them for just about everything. We have battery powered ''sawsall'' units that we use to cut them up and then reuse the wood. Here, there is a family a couple of miles away that made a special ''pallet carrier'', to pull behind their old Mack cab-over. They have a come-along on a boom, mounted on the rear, and they do a thriving business with firms like ''home depot'' over in the metro area removing the pallets. If you go to their ''yard'', you can have any pallet for a buck. And they will deliver. Or, you can ''chop'' there. There are quite a few buildings in these parts shingled or sided with such.

On pallets, there are folks who use planers to make stock for home crafts such as birdhouses and the like. I have seen some very nice interior walls that were planed pallet slats, soybean oil stained, that would put paneling to shame. And the scrap can go into a fireplace, as most pallets are not treated in any way. My ''personal'' shop was done this way, but I cheated some by drilling holes to ''peg'' wall.

Oh, grab a spool of the larger guage solid ''guy'' wire. You know the stuff, used to guy ham radio towers. I use that to make peg hooks in my shop, make handles, small tools (scrapers, screwdrivers, odd bolts and screws, etc) and you would be surprised at some of the uses thee will find on the construction site. Think of all the things you would use binder wire on, now bring in the heavy duty guy wire.

Any ''oil'' crops in the area today? I remember soybean. That is what we use to ''stain'' pallet slats, and it works great for traditional ''yuppie'' decks. Forget the Thompsons Water Seal. We have youth on the east side of the mountain who instead of mowing yards, use pump sprayers to refurbish decks. Sometimes they come over the mountain to look for more to do. ''Junk'' corn oil works also, I am told. Soybean is non toxic, remember?

On the plastic bottle brick trick, when I was away from the Librum, I could not give you the details on my ''brick maker''. Our ''brick pan'' uses two ''Chromalox'' cartridge heaters on each side of the very square pan. Pan is 4"x4"x6". Center braized is a oven thermometer. On the wires to the heaters is a crude thermostat. Data on the cartrides is 250W, 3/8"x3", part number CRP 203A025, was about $25 each. There are many different sizes and capasities. These are what I had on hand. For more ideas grab "Secrets of Building a Plastic Injection Moulding Machine, by Vincent Gingery, of David J Gingery Publishing. 1997. 1-878087-19-3. Lindsay on the Web. I want to say $10, but could be wrong. It describes making a very small injection moulder, much too small for any real work, but you will get the ideas, and the same concepts apply to any glass injection moulding also. The whole secret is the controlled heat, 375 to 400 degrees F. Or you can make a ''slug'' maker much the same way, as we did. Perhaps I should do a Mother article, on how to make and use such bricks, now that I have a digital camera, and been ordered to learn how to use it.

I''ve rambled enough.

BTW, I was successful in ''gigging'' the monkey. He''s over in a cage right now. I knew no man or beast could resist one of the good wifes blueberry and acorn nut meal muffins. The humane folks will be getting him today.

#3 Posted : Friday, June 20, 2003 1:07:45 PM
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Posts: 134,494

This is for Steve, more than anything else. He asked me, indirectly, about cordwood construction. There are so many books, that the question was academic... But some tips are in order, and thought to post them here.

We don't use cordwood construction anymore. This is such a wet environment that we have not found a way to save the ends from getting damaged from mold, etc. We tried all kinds of dips and varnishes, etc. There are several 'swiss cheese' field walls because of this.

So we started looking at alternatives to actual cordwood. One was soda bottles.

We use a 'cordwood' style construction when building 'heater heatsink' walls. The wall is between the heat source, such as a stove, and the main wall to catch radient heat. But the way we do it is a bit different than most folks might think, we use bottles of water, plastic or glass, in a horizontal or 'long' configuration, slipcased/slipstoned in. The water captures the heat faster than the concrete/stone mass, and the encasing concrete is heat sink for longer duration release.

Another way is to use the bottles as a 'two way' roof on an underground. First trench, lay the full bottles. Pour in cement. Lay plastic for water barrier. Lay pallet wood planks (they make a decent thermal barrier). Lay more bottles. Pour on more cement. This way, the inside heat would be stored/reflected back in, and the outside heat out. I have been informed that a 'adobe' roof done this way, out in a Arizona enclave is 'primo', they used mud instead of concrete.

No reason one could not double a wall. We have a couple that way with the same type construction, of concrete encased bottles, then wood, then concrete encased bottles for a couple of sheds, and the spring house, here. The bottles are the small ones, of course. Believe me, that springhouse stays COLD.

I have also seen several 'field' walls of 2 liter plastic bottles as cordwood. Actually quite attractive. In one case, the person did his street number in the exposed bottom ends, in blue, with the rest green/clear.

Another idea, which I have alluded to earlier, is the melted soda bottle bricks. For building use such is much too brittle, but I was trying to make 'skylights' in the wall. I never figured a way to get the bubbles or defraction out. But, they stack nicely, and in time seal to each other with no cement or other adhesive. I had thought of doing a retaining wall this way. It would last longer than railroad ties, which is only four to five years here.

Take care,

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