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slipform masonry Options
skruzich
#1 Posted : Thursday, August 14, 2003 9:51:35 PM
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Have you considered building cordwood style with soda bottles filled with water? Majeure (SP?) mentioned something about this a while back and said that they used the water filled bottles in the mortar as thermal heat storage.
steve
andydufresne
#2 Posted : Friday, August 15, 2003 5:37:14 AM
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FUnny you should ask that question!

[url][/url]http://www.hollowtop.com/cls_html/do-it-yourself/stone_masonry.htm[url][/url]

Try this....I have read a lot of this site. They sell a book and a video. I intend to buy both some time in the future. Seem to me to know what they are talking about
nfgraham
#3 Posted : Friday, August 15, 2003 7:37:16 AM
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Flutie; Frank L.Wright used a drystack method. i.e. Poured foundations,with vertical rebar.Then they drystacked stone leaving a large central void. The stonework was then encased with wooden formwork,and concrete poured down into the central void,filling this area and then moving out to the formwork. When the formwork was removed you have a wall that looks as if it was stone laid in morter.
michaels
#4 Posted : Friday, August 15, 2003 2:04:07 PM
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Steve,

Majere is going to love that spelling.

Flutemandolin,

Go back into the archives here and look for Majere''s (then his handle was pate20135) posts. He not only tried to describe the difference between slipstone and slipform, but also advised how to test the rock. I think he gave up trying to describe the difference, but would be good for you. Actually, nfgraham gave a fair description.

And you can also find the ''soda bottle'' discussion.

He should be back after the 20th, so drop him a line then, I know he would love to answer, as he has much such work to do in restoring RockRidge. It is a ''Wright'' style built-into-the-cliff multilevel, all drylay and slipstone.

nfgraham. Is that Graham, in the OK area?

Michael
majere
#5 Posted : Thursday, August 21, 2003 10:28:11 AM
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nfgraham,

I am curious too, is that last name ''Graham'', in Oklahoma? If so, you may be ''English'' family, adoptive mother. We are still looking for some of them. Michael is also related that way.

Flutemandolin,

Michael is correct, I am now in a ''Wright'' style home, and estimating repairs and updates. What does thee need to know?

As to the soda bottle tricks, that is very easy, and cheap. The local ''english'' have even started doing it. Get some decent pallet wood. Plane it. ''Panel'' the wall behind the stove with it, in a diagonal fashion (///). Then form with more pallet wood a ''mould'', fill bottles, lay them in the mould, against the wood. Pour mortar (english are using thin stucco) soup. When set, tear away the mould. You have a small firewall that protects the wall, and captures and radiates heat with a much sharper ''absorbtion curve'' and a longer ''release curve''. The english have done us one better, they put the glazed ceramic tiles on the front. The ''backing'' pallet wood protects the wall from heat, even the heat stored in the water filled bottles. In my case, I did some slipstoning instead of the tiles.

Take care,

Majere.

flutemandolin
#6 Posted : Friday, August 22, 2003 9:34:33 PM
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Posts: 134,494
Thanks for the replies and suggestions. The water bottle idea sounds interesting; could you tell me more about the absorption and release curves compared with stone? What size bottles? I could probably get all I need at the recycling shed or along the roadsides [:(!].

The plan is to build a freestanding half wall, up to 4 ft high, in back of the stove and angled to either side. One question: Does the color of the mortar make a difference as far as heat absorption? The rocks would be fairly light in color.

Thanks again!
michaels
#7 Posted : Friday, August 22, 2003 11:44:11 PM
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Posts: 134,494
Flutemandolin,

Majere did post some figures on the ''curves'', perhaps it is still in the archives. When he returns, perhaps he can point me to where those are here in the Librum.

I can answer the bottle size question. 20 fluid ounce.

Yes, the color of the mortar does make a very major difference. In our case, we use our own natural sand which is a slate grey in color. And as to height, that is not a problem. I now live in what was Majere''s home, and this wall is five foot high, standalone (about two inch gap between wall and drywall)(He did not use pallet wood as back paneling on this one), and ''winged''. But he ''cheated'' by putting a pipe through this wall, to the outside of the building, for draft purposes. This does affect the heat absorbtion curves. This stove really can blast, so it is a gentle tradeoff.

Michael
flutemandolin
#8 Posted : Friday, August 22, 2003 11:44:11 PM
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Posts: 134,494
My husband and I are about to start building our house and we have plans for a centrally located woodstove with a 3-sided half wall behind it for heat storage and to keep dogs, cats, toddlers etc from accidentally touching the back. Our land has an abundance of glacial rocks of various shapes and sizes, some sandstone and some granite. I would like to use the rocks rather than spend money on bricks. Does anyone have experience with slipform masonry? Any good online resources or book recommendations? Specifically, could I build small sections and mortar them together rather than build the entire wall as one unit?

Thanks for your help![8D]
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