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Removing salt Options
#1 Posted : Wednesday, August 06, 2003 5:36:26 AM
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As in furniture? Give us a little more info please. Water is still gonna be your best solvent for salt.
Robert Hendrix
#2 Posted : Wednesday, August 06, 2003 2:03:37 PM
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I was reluctant to state that this is a gun stock not knowing what the response would be here.After reading some of the other posts I can see my concern was groundless!
In the late 1960''s,Browning Arms tried to cure wood for guns in a salt bath.What possessed them to try it I don''t know.I guess the salesman from Morton was slick and the people that decided to do this had never lived where roads were salted.(I live in Georgia and I know better!)
It worked O K on the blanks on the top of the pile but the ones on the bottom really soaked it in.The metal on my gun is rust pitted badly and will require extensive(and expensive)restoration.Some guns don''t show the effects of the salt (yet) and others do.If the salt could be removed from a high grade stock,it would be worth while.My stock is a standard grade and in only fair shape other wise so it will be a test subject.
P.S.If you are looking at a Browning from that era(into the early ''70''s)if possible,remove the butt plate and look for rusty screws.Warning,they may break so have an understanding about it first!If any signs of rust appear on metal where it contacts the wood,price accordingly or go look elsewhere.
#3 Posted : Wednesday, August 06, 2003 3:07:56 PM
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Research into sperm oil. That is what this Dicks reports and suggests. Also an old reference to naval cannon on salt cured and encrusted wooden mounts recommends painting with sperm oil. I know such is not available today, but the modern sythetic versions, such as transmission fluid (ATF) are. I would think such may warp though. Such might be an option.

For what it may be worth, Majere has several four inch pipes full of ATF. He soaks garden tool handles that way. I have not seen any warpage.

And I know Majere wiped down his Garand with used ATF after the racoon war.

#4 Posted : Thursday, August 07, 2003 1:16:58 AM
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Intersting thread...I didn''t know that about Brownings. As is usually the case, we solve one problem and create another. Your question might be a good one for the American Rifleman (magazine) staff...maybe even Browning themselves.

I would think you could wipe/rub the stock with distilled water. This will raise the grain and open the pores, provided there is no sealant on it now. After it dries, re-check the fit of the barrel and action, lightly sand it smooth again and then seal it with a high-quality stock sealant, such as tung-oil.

I built a rifle 25 years ago, finished it with hand-applied tung-oil. The rifle has been thru **ll and back and the finish is still protecting the wood. It is very durable.

I doubt you''ll ever remove all the salt...how would you ever know if you had?? If there is a rifle club around, you might want to ask the club president who in the club is best with stock refinishing...there is always a gun fanatic/expert/craftsman in every club.

I say "seal it in".

And yes... :) ...your gun concerns were groundless! Welcome to the board. Let us know how the Browning turns out!
#5 Posted : Thursday, August 07, 2003 1:45:39 PM
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Your gun concerns, you should have been wary. Ya just never know these days. We seem to have the idea that all along Americans have been gun lovers. In fact one of the problems in getting the revolution of ''76 going was a lack of guns and foundries for making them. One of Franklin''s duties in France was to obtain arms.

As to people here, we all run the gamut from tree huggers that will pick off a squirrel while doing the hugging to those folks who think guns are an outmoded means of protecting the state.

PERSONALLY I am a first and second ammendment absolutest. I thinkg the cure to bad SPEECH is MORE SPEECH. I think the cure to abuse of the second ammendment is prosecuting those people.

If you drive through Arkansas be aware you will be stopped at the state line and your car inspected for guns. If you don''t have one we will loan you one. But you must give it back before you cross into OK. We don''t want to arm those folks.
Robert Hendrix
#6 Posted : Thursday, August 07, 2003 5:10:59 PM
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Thanks Guys,
Andy,I needed a laugh about something(don''t want to arm the folks in OK) so thanks!
As to the lack of fireams manufactering,that was the Crowns decree so we couldn''t rise up against the crown.They finally allowed us to make tools and household items here but powder mills and shot towers were prohibited(see above).
As for the first amendmnt,most people don''t realise(imo)that the only guarantee any of our "rights" have is a piece of paper and the second amendment.
Years ago,some well known person was carping about banning guns.I was with a group of my friends and told them I hoped if he got his way we wound up in the same jail cell.They looked at me and asked what I meant?I told them that after the guns were baned, I might be there for not surrendering my guns and he''d be there for whatever he was protesting about that the now all powerful gov''t didn''t like.He''d be in for an I told you so for however many years we were together.

Browning doesn''t want to talk about this unless you are the original owner with the warranty card in your name.
The subject is an old one in gun collector circles that are involved with Brownings.I''m thinking I''ve got to go back in time to before people just replaced something to find an answer.(That''s why I''m here).Unfoutunatly,I didn''t think to ask my Grannie before she passed a few years back.She might have known.If I had known about this 20 years ago,I could have asked around some of the family that still live in N GA and found out but the''ve mostly passed on now.
There is someone trying an epoxy sealer but it hasn''t been long enough to see if it will last.If Browning had varnished the stock on the inside it might have worked a little better but the contact point at the rear of the reciever would wear through sooner or later.
On another forum it was discussed about testing for salt with a solution of 1% Silver Nitrate.If salt is present,the spot where it is applied will turn white.
Don''t wait on pins and needles as whatever I try will be a while in the future before I start and will probably take weeks to bear any results.In the meantime maybe someone else will weigh in with a surefire home remedy that I can try.The oil bath Michael suggested will probably be the last thing I try for reasons stated below.

I didn''t forget about your advice,I just do things backwards sometimes.
Thanks for the advice about oil.I had thought about this already.The problem with oil is it weakens the wood fibers.However,oil can be removed by bleaching or wicking with heat and wiping(a lot of wiping!)and there is one other dry compound that I can''t remember(I''ll have to dig in my reference books to find it).
Btw,I''ve seen "this Dicks" elsewhere on this forum(I think).Who(or what) is this Dicks?(A newbie question I guess).
Well thanks to all.I hope someone else has some input that isn''t put off by the end use.
Thanks to all and if you want to email me direct it''s roberthendrix@outdrs.net .
#7 Posted : Friday, August 08, 2003 12:52:02 AM
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Dicks is simular to Henleys. Majere has it online, now complete I think. http://www.thelitterbox.org/pates/

You are correct about petroleum oils weakening fibers, but does ''natural oils'' such as sperm or soybean? Expand the fibers, yes, but weaken? Unsure.


Robert Hendrix
#8 Posted : Friday, August 08, 2003 2:28:28 AM
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Hi Michael,
I''m not sure about the damage natural oils will cause to the fibers.Water will swell the fibers but can be dried easier.
The right oil can''t be too bad as military gun stocks were submerged in boiling linseed oil as their protective finish.
That may be my answer but to get that much oil out is some kind of chore(been there done that).
One of my gunsmithing books authors described the military process as using linseed oil hot enough to scald a brick.

Thanks for the note about Dicks.I had looked after I asked and found it.I should have looked first but I didn''t and I ''poligize.
Sooner or later someone will get a brainstorm about this and we''ll all be rich I tell you, rich.Meanwhile,back at the ranch,I guess I''ll have to go work some more to pay the bills.

Thanks aagain,
#9 Posted : Friday, August 08, 2003 9:35:24 AM
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hi Robert i dont know if this will help or not & i can''t verify there clams but maybe worth lookin in to,,,,,,,,http://www.klever-ballistol.de/en/balliste.html ,,if dicks doesnt extract the salt maybe can seal it in. could it be a blueing defect?,, if a stupid queston please forgive errr. sleep depravation, any way best of luck on it
tc ray
Robert Hendrix
#10 Posted : Friday, August 08, 2003 2:15:29 PM
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Hi Ray,
Thanks for the input.The only bluing defect is the contact with a corrosive agent the wood is saturated with (the salt).It is so far fetched that anyone would try this(brining wood for guns?!) that it isn''t a stupid question at all.I''ll go look at the link you left and see what it has to say.
When I bought the gun I didn''t know anything about salted wood on Brownings but the price was right for that particular model gun so I bought it anyway.I''ve gotten my $400.00 worth from it anyway it goes.
Sooner or later I''ll find an answer even if it''s give up and replace the wood like everybody else tells you to!
Thanks to all,
Robert Hendrix
#11 Posted : Friday, August 08, 2003 2:15:29 PM
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Hi to all.This is my first time here although I've read M E N for many years and if anyone knows an answer to my question,I think I'll find it here.
Does anyone have any idea how to remove salt that has soaked into wood with out damage to the wood?
Refinishing is no problem but anything that weakens the wood or warps it would be.The thickness varies from 3/8"(9.5mm)to 1&3/4"(44.5mm).
Something to displace the salt that wouldn't cause metal to rust would be fine as long as it wouldn't irritate skin or be greasy to the touch.
Thanks in advance,
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