Mother's Conduit Log Peavey

With scavenged pieces of electrical metal conduit, a short section of fence post pipe, and assorted fasteners you can construct a log peavey without parallel.


| November/December 1979



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A log peavey will give you the necessary leverage to maneuver large log sections for additional cutting.


PHOTO: MOTHER EARTH NEWS STAFF

If you're a member of the growing ranks of the wood-heating clan, you've no doubt found out that cutting wood for your stove or fireplace is only half the fuel foraging battle. Once you've felled and sectioned your trees, each log must still be trimmed, split, gathered, and stacked.

And in the course of such firewood processing adventures, you may also have discovered that moving a 12-foot-long log with a kink in the middle is no easy matter. Timber of that proportion can often be neither rolled nor lifted. Of course, professional lumber choppers have just the tool for such a job: it's called a log peavey after its inventor, Joseph Peavey. A commercial model of this back-saving device would probably be too expensive to be worthwhile for the occasional "lumberjack," but MOTHER EARTH NEWS' version of Mr. Peavey's log lifter is so easy to make that it would be worth your while to build one ... especially since most of the components can be found in construction site scrap piles (be sure to ask before you scavenge from one of these gold mines) or even at the town dump!

Start by locating a handle: a 60" length of 1" electrical conduit (professionally called E.M.T. or electrical metallic tubing) bent to a 90° angle at one end. Much of the conduit used in construction will already have 90° curves (for turning building corners), so you can easily adapt such scrap-pile treasures to your needs.

Next obtain a 24" piece of 2" fencepost pipe. Bore a 1" hole through one side of the tube directly in its center. Then push the bent end of your 1" conduit through the 1" hole and weld the two pieces of pipe together.

With that done, find a 4" length of 1/4" X 1 1/2" hot-rolled steel and cut one corner off at a 45° angle. Take this little wedge and weld it—point out—to the outside of the curve of the conduit handle about six inches from the junction of fencepost and pipe.

Now scrounge up a 16" section of 3/4" conduit again with a 90° bend. Cut a 1/4" slot in each end of the 3/4 " pipe, but make that notch one inch deep on one end and two inches deep on the other.





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