Janet and Mark Knickerbocker share a design for a homemade goat milking stand that makes milking easier, includes diagrams, materials, layout, bracing, the seat and the feed box.
Diagram: Goat milking station basic build.
JANET AND MARK KNICKERBOCKER
This homemade goat milking stand makes milking easy for the milker and the goat.
If you get dairy goats, you'll probably want to build this nifty goat milking stanchion to make milking easy for both the milker and the milkee. This homemade goat milking stand features an adjustable seat for the milker, a platform to raise the goat to a comfortable height and a feed box to keep her content while you milk.
To make the stanchion, you'll need a skill saw, jigsaw, electric drill, Phillips screwdriver for the drill, a 1/16 inch drill bit to bore pilot holes for screws and 1 1/2 inch wood screws.
If you want, you can add a chain neck restraint, which will come in handy when introducing a new goat to milking.
A. Two 44 inch 1 by 12s for front
B. Two 48 inch 1 by 12s for bottom
C. Two 23 inch1 by 6s for leg supports
D. One 36 inch 1 by 8 for seat slide
E. Four 10 1/2 inch 2 by 4s for legs
F. Two 23 inch 2 by 4s for slide support
G. One 36 inch 2 by 4 cut 45 degrees on each end (for brace)
H. One 23 inch 1 by 4 (top connector)
I. Two 8 inch L-brackets
J. One 6 inch piece of light chain
K. One screw eye, one screw book
Front: Begin with the two 44 inch 1 by 12s (A). Lay one on top of the other. Using a jigsaw cut out one half of the keyhole. Start the bottom of the keyhole at 19 inches with the top ending at 39 inches. (See illustration for the shape in the image gallery, which may need to be enlarged to accommodate a goat with horns.) Lay the two boards (A) side by side and screw the top connector (H) flush with the top. Use four 1/2 inch screws. Mount the L-brackets (I) flush with the bottom of front (A) on each outside edge, again using the 1 1/2 inch screws.
Floor: Position the two bottom boards (B) side by side. As pictured, position the slide supports (F) under the bottom boards (B) and screw down from the top using 12 1 1/2 inch screws, six per support. Attach the seat slide (D) across the bottom and flush with the outside edge of the slide support (F).
Bracing: Screw the leg supports (C) to the slide supports (F) using six 1 1/2 inch screws in each. Attach the legs (E) to the leg supports (C) and to the bottom (B) on all four corners. Attach each leg using four 1 1/2 inch screws, two in the top and two in the side.
To Attach Front to Floor: Attach the front (A) to the bottom (B) using the L-brackets previously installed on the front (A). Position brace (G) as shown in the diagram and screw to the front (A) and the bottom (B) flush with the far side of the stanchion.
If you'd like a restraint to confine your goat loosely to the stanchion, attach screw eye (K) to the right side near the bottom of the keyhole. Attach chain (J) to the screw eye (K). Attach the screw hook on the left side of the keyhole so you can fasten the chain loosely.
A. One 36 inch 1 by 12 (adjustable slide)
B. Two 16 inch 1 by 12s (sides)
C. One 16 inch 1 by 12 (top)
Mark and cut the two sides (B) as indicated on the diagram. Attach adjustable slide (A) onto sides (B) 8 1/2 inch from the bottom. Use three W screws on each side. Attach the top (C) across the top of the sidepieces allowing 2 inches of overhang on each. Attach with six 1 1/2 inch screws, three on each side.
A. Two 13 1/2 inch 1 by 4s (front and back)
B. Two 12 inch 1 by 4s (sides)
C. One 15 inch 1 by 12 (bottom)
Two 4 inch L-brackets
Screw together the front and back (A) to the sides (B). Use two 1 1/2 inch screws in each corner. Attach bottom (C) using three 1 1/2 inch screws per side. Attach L-brackets to the bottom of the box, flush with outside edge. These will later attach the feed box to the stanchion.
Mark and Janet homestead in northeastern Missouri where Janet is a freelance writer and Mark works for the Missouri Department of Transportation.
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