How to Choose the Best Doorstop

Installing the right doorstops will reduce damage to your walls (and your toes).


| Nov. 26, 2008



wood doorstop

To prevent accidents while working on doors, use a wedge to prevent the door from swinging.


ISTOCKPHOTO/ROB CRUSE

Over the years, traditional impromptu front-door stops have included everything from Grandpa’s duck decoy to jars of pennies to umbrella stands. They keep the doorknob from bumping into the wall — or the door from being closed suddenly by an errant breeze or cross draft. But there’s a better, more elegant and permanent solution.

To prevent damage to the wall from the doorknob, the best solution is a permanent doorstop of some kind. Depending on your needs and tastes, they can be mounted on the baseboard, the floor, the center hinge of the door, or on the wall. Exact placement is important. If you have a damaged doorstop, installing its replacement will be a no-brainer. But a door without a stop gives you some interesting choices.

Let me say first that I never work on a door without a small safety wedge, which is a kind of portable doorstop. Made of rubber or wood, it will keep the door stable and stationary. Until you have been struck in the forehead by someone opening the door you are working on, as I have, you may think this is excessive caution. Ever since the second time it happened, I have used two wedges, one on either side.

Hinge-mounted types are the easiest to install — just pull the center hinge and put it through the stop, tap the hinge back down in place, and adjust the screw mechanism until the knob misses the wall by a good half-inch. (Putting it on the center hinge places it in the middle of the door to balance the pressure applied to it.) But it works best only on light interior doors. The same is true of doorstops that mount on the baseboard molding.

For a heavier portal such as the front door, a floor mount often is best. A wall-mounted stop requires heavy framing precisely at the doorknob’s point of contact with the wall. Doorstops that are mounted only on drywall will most likely be pushed right into the wall. On the floor, however, you always know there’s something solid to screw into, and you can put the doorstop wherever you need it. This can be important if the entryway is tiled, so you can position the doorstop so that it's over the grouted area between tiles but on the level tile surface.

Using the wedge(s) to secure the door, fine-tune the placement of the floor stop. When you’ve decided, close the door all the way — and lock or wedge it, for your head’s sake — and take another look. If it’s out of the way of foot traffic, nobody will trip on it.

diablohardware
8/19/2013 9:12:30 AM

The door Wedge is a great tip when fitting to stop someone hitting the door off your head. Simple yet brilliant! One thing to note for wall/skirting mounted doorstops is the size of projection. With some door handles, usually door knobs, they project further from the door than some doorstops can reach, so make sure your doorstops projection is larger than the door handle's. Or avoid the hassle and buy an adjustable projection doorstop like that from Diablo Hardware. Save time and money. Adjusts 68mm - 98mm and will be the only style of wall/skirting mounted doorstop you would need. From wherever you buy an adjustable doorstop at least you going with the knowledge that it will be long enough to avoid the handle and serve it's purpose in stopping the door and protecting your walls. If you buy a floor mounted doorstop there are many points in this article you should definitely take into consideration. Especially the point of a round doorstop as it is easier to clean around.






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