Hits and misses of DIY projects, both big and small.

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Hanging Lights 

Even with minimal building capability, you can learn how to make light fixtures from old metal chicken feeders. The feeders may be hard to come by, but if you know someone that has been in the commercial chicken-raising business, then you can likely find some in their used feeder pile. That's how I got some of mine.

This project is really quite simple. First, you will need to decide if you want a fixed light or a swag lamp. I made some of both. I ordered parts from a site I found by searching around on the Internet that supplied the lamp cords, sockets with rings, and rods. You can order any length rod depending on how low you want the light to hang.

Drill and Sander 

Project Components and Cost

The parts I ordered to make the fixed light were a little less expensive than for the swag light. I used steel pipe, 1/8-inch, threaded on both ends (this fits the socket thread size). Cost of the pipe: $4.52.

Keyless lamp holders (sockets): $3.28. Locknuts: $0.26 each (you will need 2). The 3-inch electric box was $7.00 and the cover was $0.95. Paint: $4.00.

The total cost per light was $19.32. I used some electric wire I had already, so you may have to figure in the cost of a few feet.

For the swag light, the cost of the cord with socket was $30.00. The chicken feeder was free. The paint cost me $4.00.

Chicken Feeder 


I needed to sand the metal feeder tray and the wire cage. I did this with an electric drill and a wire brush attachment (see photos). Clean up the feeder up and spray-paint it a bright color.

Sanding Attachment 

I wired the rod and light straight into a junction box with a cover (the cover needs to have a hole in it) and then painted the feeder portion a range of bright colors.

I also made a swag light that turned out to be the easiest. I simply ordered a colored cord with socket and ring together and attached the cord to the painted chicken feeder tray, put in a light bulb and attached the wire cage (which is spring-loaded).

Drill Attachment 

I did all the wiring of the electrical boxes myself but I did hire a licensed electrician to wire it to the main electric line.

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Occasionally, there can be unintentional side effects from switching to more appropriate choices. For example, when incandescent light bulbs are replaced with more efficient and longer lasting technology (such as LEDs and CFLs), waste is created. As more people choose to reduce their energy consumption and buy newer, energy-saving light bulbs, more incandescents are disposed of.

PowerSave Campus, a program working on California university campuses to increase energy efficiency, presented Humboldt State University students with a way to divert incandescent light bulb waste by hosting a terrarium-making workshop, where students could up-cycle their incandescents into something new: mini terrariums! 

PowerSave Campus set up a table at the Campus Center for Appropriate Technology and provided materials (incandescents, plants, tools) for students to use. The workshop had a huge turnout. The workshop encouraged students to swap out incandescent bulbs for a more efficient type of light taught students how to turn their incandescents into terrariums at home.

CFL and LED light bulbs use 10-20 percent of the energy of an incandescent and have a much longer lifespan, which compounds the monetary and energy savings.

How to Make a Mini Terrarium

1. Remove the metal plate from the bottom of the bulb by twisting it up and pulling the small metal piece out.

2. Break the black glass and remove all the pieces. Depending on the brand of the bulb, the black glass can be easy or tough to remove. If you are finding it difficult to remove, you will need to use skinny pliers that will fit in the hole left once you removed the metal plate. You can leverage the pliers against one side of the black glass to break it apart.

3. Break the inner glass inside the bulb by leveraging the pliers against one side of the light bulb and pushing against the glass lightly in the opposite direction. The glass is very fragile, so be sure to be careful when breaking it or you could break the actual light bulb, too. The glass pieces and wires will need to be pulled out through the opening.

4. Some light bulbs are coated with a white powder. This can be easily washed off by rinsing the bulb in water. If the powder is not wiping off easily, soap will help.

5. Fill the light bulb with dirt. How much dirt to use is up to you, but most fill the bulb up to the middle of the curve of the light bulb.

6. Pick your favorite small native plants, or purchase various plants that stay relatively small in size or do not grow too quickly, and do not require a lot of water. This will help you create a terrarium that you can enjoy for the longest amount of time possible. For the workshop, various lichens, mosses, and succulents were collected to create beautiful terrariums.     


Quick Tips

1. Dried leaves and small twigs covered with lichens can really add some color and character to your terrarium.

2. Don't be afraid to add a lot of lichen! They require hardly any maintenance and they make terrariums look great.

3. You can arrange the plants by using any tool that is long and skinny (i.e. long tweezers, small scissors, or even screwdrivers work).

4. If you are interested in making a terrarium with only succulents, you should consider using small rocks as a substrate instead of soil. Many succulents prefer small rocks since succulents require good drainage and loose substrate.

5. You can put 3 to 4 small dots on the bottom of the bulb with a hot glue gun so your terrarium can sit on a flat surface without toppling over. Or hang your terrariums up by tying them with a string or wrapping them with wire and hanging it at your window.

First and final photo by Matthew Ware

Middle photos by Ivan Soto

PowerSave Campus is a program of the Alliance to Save Energy, funded by the investor-owned utilities of California, and is a student-driven energy efficiency education program that promotes careers in the green workforce, generates actual energy savings, and increases awareness and education of the importance of energy efficiency and water conservation. Projects range from energy audits, competitions, academic projects, and career events that involve students, faculty, and community members. Click here to learn more about PowerSave Campus. You can read more about what Humboldt State’s PowerSave team is up to by signing up for our monthly newsletter on the HSU PowerSave website.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Best Practices, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on the byline link at the top of the page.


Forge 1

Blacksmiths often held a special status among traditional people; when your plow bent or your scythe broke, he kept your family alive. They must have seemed like alchemists, turning bare stones into gleaming jewellery or fierce weapons; here in Ireland even their homes looked different, with a bizarre keyhole-shaped door that announced the resident’s craft as clearly as any barber pole or butcher sign.

Try blacksmithing for a short time and you respect them yourself. Metals like copper or tin can be hammered into shape cold, but iron needs more than a thousand degrees of heat to become malleable; for those temperatures you need charcoal, a forge and a continual blast of air, along with the skill to know what you’re doing.

I do not claim to have such skill, but under the guidance of two excellent tutors, I was able to take a rusty piece of discarded machinery and, by heating and pounding it many times over two days, flatten and shape it into a useable machete. The course was one of many offered by the Irish organization CELT, and hosted at the Slieve Aughty Centre in County Galway.

We started by creating a forge – in this case, out of clay, sand and horse manure, mixed and shaped like a sand castle. We cut and stapled plastic bags and wooden planks to form bellows, and used pipes to connect them to the clay structure, and soon we had something primitive yet useable. We used metal ones later to save time, but it’s a great pleasure to know that you can make a working forge from almost nothing.

We quickly learned that forging metal means a lot of time standing over the fire, holding the metal – with tongs, obviously – in just the right place to get the proper amount of heat, and withdrawing it at just the right moment. Too much heat and it sparks and disintegrates, too little and no amount of hammering can budge it. Movie blacksmiths look like bodybuilders slamming white-hot metal with sledgehammers; the reality involves a lot more frantic and often delicate tapping, as the smith has only a few seconds to make the right changes before it cools again.

In my case, I hammered the old machine part into a straight bar, flattened it into a knife-shape over the next two days, and a bit of cutting and polishing did the rest. I cut a handle from a hazel branch, heated the “handle end” of the metal until it was yellow-hot, and seared the hot metal into the handle, with a gust of steam and a few bursts of flame from the wood. The result looks a bit crude, like a weapon an orc might use in the Hobbit, but it’s turned out to be a perfectly serviceable tool.

Blacksmithing is one of the dozens of professions that were widespread in all traditional cultures, when most villages had families of craftsmen – coopers, wrights, tanners and thatchers – that now survive only as surnames. Children apprenticed from an early age, learned a skill for several years, and might have entered the working world as masters at an age when teens today are spending their prime years bored and self-destructive.

A world of craftsmen creates an economy alien to modern Westerners; instead of cheap belongings meant to be thrown away quickly, goods had to be made durable, to be fixed, recast, re-forged or re-sewn over and over, with no mountains of rubbish. Such an economy entirely lacked the anonymous transactions that we think we depend on; writers from a century or two ago described recognizing particular barrels, nails or saddles as we would recognize someone’s handwriting, and the craftsman’s reputation hung on the quality of their work.

Of course, few people would be able to make a living as a smith anymore, but it’s a skill we should retain; plastic can only be recycled a few times, but iron can be recycled indefinitely. When the world is no longer able to mass-produce new materials at its former rate, when there is no new plastic and fewer forests, we will have billions of tons of landfill waste. Movies like WALL-E posit garbage covering the Earth, but in real life much of that garbage would not only be reusable, but precious, and today’s landfills could be tomorrow’s mines.


For more information about CELT’s Weekend in the Hills, check them out here. If you are in County Galway, do check out the Slieve Aughty Centre near Loughrea.

Top photo: Two of my course-mates stoking their forge; the bellows are pipes and cattle feed bags, the forge itself is sculpted out of clay, sand, and horse manure. 

Bottom photo: The knife I made, with a book for scale.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Best Practices, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on the byline link at the top of the page.


Dead Batteries

Batteries have a limited working life. Even the best batteries won’t last forever. When your electronics say “low batt” it means just that: The batteries are low but not dead. They can still have useful energy in them.

The energy that remains in seemingly dead batteries can be used in this simple night light project that you can build at home in about one hour. Your new night light will shine for months and is reusable for years, powered by “dead” batteries.

How to Wring All the Energy from a ‘Dead’ Battery

New, single-use batteries start with 1.5 volts. However, modern electronics generally stop working when the voltage in a battery reaches 1.2 volts. To be clear, we're not talking about bringing a “dead” battery back to life but simply harvesting the rest of the energy that remains inside. Until now, remaining energy was wasted when a battery was recycled or sent to a landfill. That wastes energy and money.

This isn't a new concept. It's based on the Joule Thief circuit that has been around for decades. I don't like the term Joule Thief so I renamed it a “Watt Winger.” The teaching version of the Joule Thief circuit uses transistors and a homemade transformer. Fortunately, a solar-powered garden light has compressed all of this onto a single electronic circuit board—much better for use with the Watt Wringer. Repurposing the circuit board from a garden solar light into an attractive and efficient nightlight is easy.

Don’t worry! There is no engineering involved and there is no chance you will be shocked by the electricity

Watt Wringer Materials List

Supplies you will need:
• Solar-powered garden light – new or used
• Wire cutters - or substitute toe nail cutters
• Screw driver
• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Battery holder – lots of options for these
• Switch (optional)
• Enclosure (optional)
• Hot melt glue (optional)
• Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape (optional)


Step 1: Find a Donor Solar-Powered Garden Light

Those little solar-powered garden lights seem to be everywhere.

Solar Light

Inside a solar-powered garden light is a clever electronic circuit board that is still working long after the garden light stops working. New solar-powered garden lights are not too expensive but used or damaged lights are less expensive, sometimes free. Maybe a used solar panel is cloudy or someone ran over the light with the tractor. Hey, it happens!

Note: A cloudy solar panel will have reduced performance.

Step 2: Disassemble the Top of the Solar-Powered Garden Light

Light Cap

Let’s start by opening the solar light and following the wires.  The battery is easy to see.  



This solar light uses a battery that is shorter than a standard AA battery. Other parts are not so easy to identify in the photograph so here’s a simple diagram that may help.

Diagram Circuit

The circuit board is connected to the battery with two wires and to the solar panel with two more wires.

Step 3: Identify the Type of Solar-Powered Garden Light You Have

Some older solar-powered garden lights have a solar panel PLUS a photo diode (wait, I thought you said there wouldn’t be any engineering?). A photo diode is just a light sensor. These light sensors are small and round with a squiggly looking pattern. Light sensors turn lights on and off automatically at dusk and dawn.


For the simple night light we’re building, we will be using solar-powered garden lights without light sensors. Besides, they're just not that common anymore.

Step 4: Inspection and Testing

Remove the battery and follow the wires from the battery to the circuit board. If the circuit board has damage from a leaky battery or physical damage (remember the tractor?) it’s time to find another solar-powered garden light. Circuit boards aren’t worth fixing.

Even a circuit board that looks OK, it might not work. There’s also a chance the LED light could be burned out.  To see if the circuit board and LED are still working, install a battery you know is still good.  When you cover the solar panel on top of the garden light, the LED should illuminate.

Step 5: Harvesting What You Need For the Project

If you have a working circuit board and LED light, you have found your donor parts. Remove the battery again and cut the wires between the solar panel and the circuit board. There are small wire cutters for small projects like this but nail clippers work pretty well, too.

Cutting Circuit

Circuit Chopping

Light Circuit

Next, carefully remove the circuit board from the garden light housing. A hobby knife and some patience will remove the adhesive. Be careful not to damage the wires—or yourself!

Battery and Supplies

Before you cut the wires to the battery holder, test the circuit board and light one more time just to be sure the circuit board was not damaged when removing it from the housing. With the battery installed and the solar panel disconnected, the LED will still illuminate if everything is OK. If the LED is still working, congratulate yourself. That was the hard part.

Step 6: Start Building Your Night Light - Choose a Battery Holder

Choose the battery holder you want to use. In this post, we’re focusing on AA and AAA batteries because they are the most common. Larger 1.5-volt batteries such as C or D size can be used, too.

The donor light in the photos has battery holder that was molded into the solar-powered garden light itself. This light is intended to be used with smaller, non-standard batteries so full sized batteries will fit. Some solar power night lights have full sized battery holders that can be reused.  If that’s the case for your project, carefully cut away any parts you don’t want. As an alternative, find a battery holder in another electronic device such as a damaged remote control or camera. Still another alternative, you can use battery holders from electronic supply stores like Radio Shack.

There are lots of options for battery holders.

Step 7: Choose an Enclosure

Speaking of options, there are also lots of ways to enclose your new nightlight. You could install it in a plastic jar or some other container. These clear, pointy containers in the pictures below are rejects from a plastic bottle making machine. Great for camping or backpacking because they are compact and waterproof.

Light Working

You can also leave all the components completely exposed for a high tech look. There are also alternatives to build your nightlight inside something else like this metal lantern designed for tea lights.

Tiny House Lit Up

This little battery holder below is designed for four AAA batteries and has a convenient switch built in. It has a compact stealthy appearance. Also good for camping or backpacking but is not water tight. It’s inconspicuous on a shelf.


In the photo above you can see the battery and circuit board inside. A small hole through the side of the battery holder is for the LED to shine through. The circuit board is held in place with hot melt glue.

Your enclosure might influence where you add a switch and how much wire you may need to add to reach the switch. Small enclosures won’t need any extra wire.

Step 8: Add a switch (Optional)

For this light, we’re going to add a switch to make it easy to turn the night light on and off. The switch is optional. Slide switches can be removed from small appliances or other electronics. Buying these new can be a little expensive. Right now prices are low at Radio Shack but there are also many other online electronics suppliers such as Mouser and DigiKey.


There are lots of slide switches to choose from. Any switch will work because voltage and amperage is very low in a Watt Wringer.

Slide switches have flanges that make mounting easy. The switch can be held in place with screws or hot melt glue.  Slide switches are a low cost solution. Toggle switches can be used too but they’re more expensive to buy new.

You could eliminate the switch and remove the battery when you want to turn off the light or just leave the light on all the time. Naturally the battery won’t last as long if the light is on all the time. Since our goal is to save energy so we’ll turn the light off when it’s not needed.

Install a switch in one of the wires between the battery and the circuit board. It doesn’t matter which wire but it’s conventional to install a switch at the positive side of the battery.

To make the connections at the switch, remove a short section of insulation at the end of the wire to expose the copper inside. Connect the wires to the switch. Electrical connections with small wires like this are usually made by soldering. Shrink tubing or electrical tape will protect the wires from accidental short circuits. A short circuit at the switch will keep the light on all the time.

Closed Circuit

Before you install your new nightlight into a housing, let’s check it again to make sure it lights up.  If there is a problem, it’s easier to fix it now than after everything is inside the enclosure.   Install the battery again and flip the switch back and forth.

Light Wires Circuit

Step 9: Enclose or Not to Enclose?

The last step is to put everything into the enclosure and mount the switch. The possibilities are as endless. You don’t need to put the Watt Wringer in an enclosure. It can just sit on a table and be a conversation starter.

For this example, I chose to replace an incandescent light bulb with a Watt Wringer. A deck prism is a piece of glass that ship builders placed through the top deck of a ship to allow light to enter the decks below.  I like the contrast of old school lighting with today's electronics.

Green Light

You’ve probably noticed that most of the light leaves an LED through the end away from the wires. Bend the wires so the LED points in the direction you want the light to go.  In this case, I bent the wires so that the light goes up, through the glass. The switch is easily mounted through a hole in the plastic base. Hot melt glue holds the switch in place.  If you’ve read this far, you’re probably handy enough to install a switch without any further instruction. But if you need some help, please feel free to leave a comment in the box below.

Step 10: Next Steps

Save your batteries! Other people also save their dead batteries and give them to me. Maybe people you know will save batteries for you. Better yet, show others how to find this blog post on MOTHER EARTH NEWS so they can make a Watt Wringer for themselves.

After a few weeks or months the light will start to flicker. When that happens, it’s time to replace the battery with a different “dead” battery. When the LED is flickering, the battery is really nearly dead at around 0.6 volts. Then you can recycle the battery knowing you got the most energy possible from it.

Congratulations! Your new nightlight will wring lots of Watts from your batteries.

If you have any questions about this blog, please leave them in the comments below. You could be helping other people who may have the same question. If you prefer, email me: My contact information is on my bio page. Thanks for following this blog post and be on the lookout for more of my DIY projects from MOTHER EARTH NEWS.

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Best Practices, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on the byline link at the top of the page.


Mother’s Day is right around the corner! Are you ready? I recommend homemade gifts for your mother this year. They are always thoughtful and usually are budget friendly. These eco-friendly projects are perfect for the home crafter who needs some fresh ideas for Mother’s Day this year.

Teacup Candles Plus Rose Vanilla Scented Soap

Teacup Candles + Rose Vanilla Scented Soap

These teacup candles are adorable! You could use mismatched teacups that you already have, or pick up some pretty or unique teacups at a thrift shop or flea market. Pair a teacup candle (or two!) with some homemade rose vanilla soap and you’ll have a great smelling gift for your mom or grandmother.

Follow these DIY instructions for Teacup Candles from Martha Stewart.

Follow these DIY instructions for Rose Vanilla Scented Soap from Hello Natural.

Wooden Coasters and Coffee Mug

Wooden Coasters + Coffee Mug

If mom is a big coffee or tea drinker, why not make a special mug for her, complete with homemade coasters? These State Pride coasters can be customized with mom’s home state and her favorite colors or colors that represent her favorite school or team. If you’re handy with a saw you can cut your own coasters, or if you’d rather, you can purchase a craft kit from Darby Smart (designed by me!). A simple DIY Sharpie marker mug and Mom’s favorite brand of coffee or tea completes the ensemble.

Follow these DIY instructions for State Pride Coasters from This Ohio Life.

Follow these DIY instructions for Mother's Day Sharpie Mugs from Maiko Nagao.

Metal Tray Magnet Board with Vintage Brooch Magnets

Metal Tray Magnet Board with Vintage Brooch Magnets

Instead of breakfast in bed, turn an old breakfast tray into a chic magnet board, complete with vintage brooch magnets and some of your favorite family photos. It’s a gorgeous, sentimental and practical gift! Look for metal breakfast trays and vintage brooches at flea markets, garage and estate sales. This is one of the easier DIYs on this list and I have the instructions for making a magnet board right here on the Mother Earth News blog!

Follow these DIY instructions for Metal Tray Magnet Board from the Mother Earth News DIY Blog.

Follow these DIY instructions for Upcycled Vintage Jewelry Magnets from My So Called Crafty Life.

DIY Vase Plus a Bouquet of Locally Grown Flowers

DIY Vases

There are lots of different ways to repurpose a container or glass bottle into a beautiful vessel for flowers. Raid your recycling bin for interesting and uniquely shaped bottles. Whether you turn one or multiple bottles into vases, fill them with locally grown flowers, picked from your own backyard or bought at the farmers’ market. It will make a lovely and cheerful spring gift.

Follow these DIY instructions for Gold Honey Bear Vase from A Beautiful Mess.

Follow these DIY instructions for Painted Vases from The Girl Candy House.

Homemade Bookmarks and DIY Book Clutch

Bookmarks and Clutch

If your mom is a book lover, make her homemade bookmark and DIY book clutch to match! The photo bookmarks are a perfect (and hilarious) way to include the kids in creating a special gift for mom or grandma. The book clutch is a great way to repurpose an old and tattered book that still has a nice cover (look at used book stores, garage sales and library book sales for colorful vintage tomes) and it makes a great eco-friendly fashion statement!

Follow these DIY instructions for Bookmark Pals from Wake & Whimsy.

Follow these DIY instructions for Fun Photo Bookmarks from Redfly Creations.

Follow these DIY instructions for Zipper Book Clutch from See Kate Sew.

Whatever you plans are this Mother’s Day, make sure your gift to mom or grandma is a gift that is good for Mother Earth too!

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Best Practices, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on the byline link at the top of the page.


With spring amongst us, I, like most of you, am excited to tackle a few new gardening projects. After searching the web for innovative ideas, I came across a nifty one that makes use of a simple pallet. My husband and his family operate bulk oil and gas companies in our local and have an abundance of these useful objects. This has no doubt onset my slight obsession with pallet recycling. If you need help sourcing a pallet, check out a similar establishment in your area or a grocery/gardening store.

Watch Create a Vertical Pallet Garden, a video tutorial by Andrew Martin, to learn how to create your very own pallet garden!


For spring, I could see doing a porch herb garden with this or some nice lettuces. It’d be wonderful to step out your front door to gather edibles for cooking. If you tackle this fun project over the weekend, be sure to let me know how it turns out!

Photo courtesy of Flickr/Tutto Giardinaggio (giardinaggio).

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Best Practices, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on the byline link at the top of the page.


Cactus Teacup Planter 1

This little planter is so cute! It’s the perfect spring time project and can easily be made with an old teacup, or one picked up at a local thrift shop or garage sale. The other items can be purchased at any home improvement or gardening store.

The most important thing to consider when making a planter out of a non-traditional planting container is drainage. Cups, teacups and bowls do not have drainage holes so you will need to create drainage space with pebbles. Drainage is especially important for planting cacti and succulents; desert plants that have evolved with the ability to survive with very little water. I recommend using a potting mix specifically designed for cacti and succulents, it will be better suited to the needs of the plants used in this project.

Depending on whether or not you use a teacup you already own and if you garden fairly often, you may not need to purchase anything for this project, other than a small cactus or succulent. If you do need to make purchases, the cost should be relatively low, with pebbles and potting soil leftover for future projects!


To make your own teacup cactus planter you will need:

• 1 teacup
• Small pebbles
• Cactus/succulent potting soil
• Small cactus or other succulent
• Larger pebbles or other decorative items
• Water
• Spoon (optional)

Before beginning the project, make sure to thoroughly clean the teacup you are using. Once the teacup is cleaned and dry, add the pebbles. You'll want a layer about an inch in height. If your teacup is rather large, you can make the pebble layer deeper.

Take your cactus or succulent out of the container you purchased it in. Gently tease the root ball so it's a bit loose before setting the plant in the teacup. Make sure that the top of where the soil begins is not taller than your teacup, if it is, you need to remove some pebbles so your plant will sit lower in the teacup. Once your plant is sitting where you would like it, add your cactus potting soil to the teapot. It's easiest if you pre-moisten your potting soil with a bit of water before adding it to your container. Dry soil will get everywhere; with damp or wet soil you have more control. I prefer to spoon a little bit of soil into a plastic container, add water and stir before adding the damp soil to the jar. I also use a spoon to add my soil to the teacup, but that’s entirely optional.

The final step is adding a decorative touch to your planter. I use some of the same pebbles that make up the drainage area in the bottom of the teacup to decorate the top of the soil. Any small items can be used, a little plastic animal or other trinket adds just a little something extra!

Cacti and succulents prefer bright, indirect light. Keep an eye on your plant and be sure not to over water it.

If you have enough teacups and leftover supplies, you could make an entire tea party of cacti!

Cactus Teacup Planter 2

All MOTHER EARTH NEWS community bloggers have agreed to follow our Blogging Best Practices, and they are responsible for the accuracy of their posts. To learn more about the author of this post, click on the byline link at the top of the page.

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