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MAX Update No. 28: MPG Heats Up

I've been on the road for a couple weeks, laptop by my side, weighing the suggestions about pumping up MAX's performance (see Update No. 26 and the numerous comments attached to it).

One that especially sparked my interest was the idea of relocating the turbocharger to the back of the car — the commenter explained the idea in detail and it makes sense. The comment, from Glen2Gs, ended with this:

“… The "Still Born" Top Gear USA television program took a VW Rabbit Diesel (AKA The Sipster) and were able to "tweek" it to 84mpg with a 0-60 time of 7 SECONDS!

http://www.topgear.com/us/features/more/project-sipster-sipster-indeed/  

May be time to send the Kubota ... packing.”

For those unfamiliar with the Sipster project, they took an '81 Volkswagen Rabbit and put in a power plant from an '03 Volkswagen Jetta TDI (diesel). The word “put” is a bit of an oversimplification and waaay out of my skill set, but that's the basic idea. They backed up the engine swap with aerodynamic modifications and got the results quoted above. It's a good story and worth the read, and it got new folks interested in the subject. All in all, I think it's pretty cool.

But before I toss the Kubota and trade MAX in for a Rabbit, we're not really talking apples and apples here. For example, they used different cardboard-and-duct-tape aerodynamic modifications for the performance runs and the economy runs. But the X Prize Foundation isn't going to let us change MAX’s body depending on which task we're facing, so that's apples and oranges at best.

Maybe not even apples and oranges, since they were “hypermiling” — drafting, coasting, and generally making life rough for the surrounding traffic— for their economy run. So we're comparing driving techniques as much as we're comparing cars, so maybe it's apples and donuts.

But still, 84 mpg is pretty spectacular. But then I read how they measured the mileage and said, “Whoa, that's how the hucksters did it back when they were selling high mileage refrigerator magnets to tie on your fuel line.”

In brief, one morning they filled the tank all the way up to the gas cap (diesel cap?), drove 70 miles, and filled it to the gas cap again. The pump stopped at 0.833 gallons, less than a gallon by a pint and a third. Pretty simple, so what could be wrong with that?

What's wrong is that as the day heats up, the fuel heats up expands, filling the tank from the inside. A factor in this case is the TDI system re-circulates fuel through the fuel pump (which heats the fuel), into the engine compartment (which heats it further), and back to the tank. Diesel expands at roughly 0.05 percent per degree Farenheit and...

Well, I haven't a clue what the difference was between starting and ending fuel temperatures in Top Gear's mileage test. But neither do they, so I'll guess a number that makes the math easy: 25 degrees. That would give an expansion factor of 1.25 percent; times 10 gallons (the capacity of the Rabbit tank) is 12.5 percent of a gallon, or one pint. That’s not a factor to ignore when the line between success and failure is a pint and a third (as was in their case, where they were shooting for 70 mpg). Now we're comparing apples and honey bears.

By the way, this fuel expansion thing is not just theoretical. When Sharon Wescott and I won Escape from Berkeley (see Update No. 14), supporters had brought us extra fuel at the finish line. So we filled our under-the-hood tank to the top before we headed out of town. The fuel was veggie oil — I don't know its expansion rate, but it was greater than our fuel consumption rate. In Vegas traffic, we couldn't burn it as fast as it expanded — 15 minutes down the road we stopped to see if we'd sprung a leak, but no, oil was overflowing from the top of the tank. Imagine what fabulous gas mileage we could claim if we used the fill-drive-refill mileage measurement technique.


Browse previous MAX Updates.
Read the introductory MAX article, Here Comes the 100-mpg Car.
Visit the Kinetic Vehicles website for more technical details on MAX.

What's Your Fantasy Green Home?

Having a “green home” can mean all sorts of things. To some people, it means living in a home that’s free of chemicals or materials that produce any sort of toxic fumes (formaldehyde from furniture or volatile organic compounds from paint, for example).

To others, a green home must be extremely energy-efficient: superinsulated, energy-efficient appliances, and with minimal space. It may even include living off the electrical grid.

If a home isn’t built of natural, local materials (such as stone, logs, cordwood or adobe), some people will say it’s not green.

So, with all these variables in mind, what would be your fantasy green home? Tell us what it would be made of, what types of energy-conserving features it would have or about the design. You can write all about it in the comments section below.

Prefab Homes: Modular and Panel Homes

Modular homes. Manufactured homes. Prefab homes. Those words have many connotations, but “prefab homes” covers the broadest range of houses that are built — at least partially — somewhere other than the house’s actual site. Just about any construction style can fall into the prefab category, including timber-frame and log-home construction. Structural insulated panels (SIPs) can be incorporated into many prefab building styles.

Certain aspects of prefab houses make them environmentally friendly: With proper planning, fewer materials are wasted by manufacturing many similar houses in one factory, and leftover pieces are more likely to be used instead of going to landfills. Shipping modules to the building site uses significant amounts of energy, but if the materials are not partially assembled prior to arriving at the building site, they need to be shipped to the site, too (unless wood, rock or earth from local sources are available).

Prefab includes kits for do-it-yourselfers, but frequently contractors complete a prefab house on the building site. So if you find a style you like, you can hire someone to complete the project for you.

Two popular types of prefab homes are modular homes and panelized (panel) homes. Both of these methods produce traditional styles of houses. Finish work (usually including drywall and trim) is completed after the main structure is assembled and passes inspection. In most places, prefab houses must be approved by a local building inspector while the plumbing and wiring is still visible in the walls and after the house is finished.

Modular Homes

Putting together a modular home is a bit like stacking toy building blocks — but more complicated. Depending on the design of the home and the distance from the manufacturer to the building site, each “block” may be an entire house, a room, groups of rooms or only a portion of a room.

MiniHome offers several models of green modular houses. These units include solar panels, and the company avoids using toxic chemicals in any of the construction materials. No part of the house is vinyl, which can produce gasses that may cause health problems. And the only material that has formaldehyde in it is the insulation in the SIPs, which is sealed from interior spaces, so off-gassing should not be a concern.

MiniHome
   PHOTO COURTESY SUSTAIN DESIGN STUDIO
   MiniHome 12X34

 

You can find more options for modular homes from the Modular Building Systems Association and on these sites:

Britco Factory Built    
Haven Custom Homes    
Hive Modular    
PowerHouse    

Haven home
   PHOTO COURTESY HAVEN CUSTOM HOMES
   Modular homes often look like traditionally built homes.

 

Panelized Homes

Both interior and exterior walls of panelized homes are built in sections (panels) prior to delivery to the home site. Sometimes, siding has already been added at the manufacturing plant, but usually it’s installed after the shell of the house is assembled.

framing panels
   PHOTO COURTESY CONNOR HOMES
   Wall panels are assembled indoors.

setting panels
   PHOTO COURTESY CONNOR HOMES
   A crew sets the panels in place at the building site.

panelized home
   PHOTO COURTESY CONNOR HOMES
   A completed panelized house looks like it was completely built onsite.

 

To find manufacturers of panelized homes, check out the Panelized Home Directory from the National Association of Home Builders or these sites:

Connor Homes    
FlatPak
Nelson Homes   
Sterling Building Systems 

FlatPak
   PHOTO COURTESY JOEL KOYAMA/FLATPAK

   FlatPak houses have a more contemporary style.

 

More Options

“Concrete” may not be the first building material that comes to mind when you think of prefab houses, but sections of walls made of insulated concrete can be cast prior to delivery for quicker assembly at the building site. Take a look at the Solarcrete and Standard Precast Walls sites for more information.

SolarCrete
   PHOTO COURTESY TRI-STATE SOLARCRETE
  This custom-built concrete home was created using pre-cast panels.

Steel prefab houses, such as those available through KML Building Solutions, include steel panels and roof trusses.

For a more ideas on prefab homes, check out the Prefabs.com directory and read Prefabrication's Green Promise. If you’re considering building your own home, read You Can Build a House and Kit Homes.

Do you live in a prefab home? Share your experiences in the comments section below.

Proper Tire Inflation: Students Will Teach You Why it Matters

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, 1.2 billion gallons of gas are wasted annually due to under-inflated tires. By keeping tires properly inflated, drivers can improve their gas mileage by up to 3.3 percent.

 This Earth Day students at Loudoun Valley High School in Percellville, Va., have launched the enGAUGE It campaign to encourage motorists to regularly check their tires and keep them properly inflated. The students will hand out thousands of free tire gauges at various locations around the community and will provide demonstrations on checking tire inflation to community members, including local elected officials.

The Newton Marasco Foundation, an organization dedicated to inspiring the next generation of environmental stewards, is sponsoring the enGAUGE It campaign by providing the students with the tire gauges. The Foundation has also created a website for enGAUGE It that offers tips for checking tire pressure, a gas savings calculator and a tool kit for starting an enGAUGE It campaign in your area.

To learn more about checking your tire pressure and why digital gauges are best, read Check Your Tire Pressure and Improve Your Gas Mileage and Under Pressure: Better Tire Gauges Mean Better Fuel Economy.

Have you Considered Renewable Energy for Your Home?

Have you considered installing renewable energy systems at your home? For example would you be most likely to have a wind turbine, or solar electric panels? Have you thought about a solar water heater, a solar space heater or solar-powered outdoor lights?

Tell us what you’ve considered and why; whether you’re dreaming big or starting small; and how far in the future you hope to be able to make it happen.

If you’re looking for more information on your options, this article, All Kinds of Solar, is a quick list of the many different ways people use solar energy. Another good introduction to home-scale renewable article is the article Choosing Renewable Energy, which discusses one couple’s efforts to get off the grid with wind power, solar power and wood heat.

 

Wind Power For Your Own Backyard

The following information is condensed from a presentation by Brent Summerville, Technical Director of the Small Wind Certification Council.

Small wind can be very rewarding — creating your own electricity from home wind turbines allows you to enjoy energy security, become more connected to weather patterns and the rhythm of the seasons, and interact with your community by hosting curious visitors wanting to learn more about your efforts in sustainability. As Wendy Milne describes in her article, Choosing Renewable Energy, “The aesthetics of wind turbines are irresistible, and we steal a glance at ours almost every time we walk between the house, garden and workshop.”

If you are interested in creating home wind power, start by visiting the US government website for Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy (EERE). This will help you to find state-specific information on a variety of issues such as installation, maintenance and pricing as well as providing you with wind resource maps, for optimizing the placement of your turbine,and contact details for local organizations and authorities. If money is tight and you'd prefer a DIY project, consider building your own wind generator; it will be sturdy, not so expensive, and less efficient than a commercially available unit — but it will be yoursand it will create energy.

Here are a few extra resources to help you out:

Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency: Click on "FED" for Federal incentives or click on any state for state incentives
Home Power Magazine (click on The Basics and Wind Electricity)
American Wind Energy Association

Build your own:

Windstuffnow.com (parts and information)
Otherpower.com (information and plans for sale)
Axial Flux Windmill Plans (plans available for purchase)

MAX Update No. 27: The 5,000 Mile Inspection

Thanks to y'all for the great response to my horsepower question in Update No. 26. We'll be trying several of your suggestions and reporting back here with the results. But first, MAX is getting a major examination.

In these modern times when some cars get their first service at 100,000 miles, it may seem odd that we're tearing MAX down for a look-see with a modest 5,160 miles on the clock. But I've got my reasons.

For one, I cut my teeth on aircraft, and a 100 hour/annual (whichever comes first) inspection is par for the course in the aviation biz. Mind you, if your car starts making a funny noise you can pull over and call for a tow truck — but that’s not an option for pilots. So they want to know if something has funny noise potential before the actual noises announce themselves.

Kubota engine
Photo by Jack McCornack

It's a habit I've carried over to the road: My cars tend to be what the used car salespeople describe as fully depreciated, or beaters, or experimental ... Well, if I knew exactly what they were going to do, there'd be no point in building them, would there? Anyway, giving my cars an “annual” keeps me from wearing out my AAA card.

For another reason, 5,000 miles is long enough that gross design errors are likely to have left their mark. My biggest concern was that the transmission adapter might have a design flaw. Otherwise, believe me, I wouldn't have bothered pulling MAX's engine out of the chassis at a mileage mark where other people are thinking about changing their oil.

What defects was I expecting? Well, if I knew that, I wouldn't have to look, but one possibility was fatigue cracks. Every engine revolution vibrates the connection between the engine and transmission by one cycle. I could do the math and calculate how many vibration cycles there are in a mile, but it's easier to do a horseback guess based on hours. Let's see ... 5,000 miles is about 100 hours, figuring an average speed of 50 mph. Figuring an average RPM of about 2,000, 2,400 or so, times 60 miles per hour, that's 120,000 to 144,000. We'll be conservative and go with 120,000 cycles. That times 100 hours is 12 million vibration cycles — enough time for cracks to develop and grow if they're going to happen. They didn't.

It's also long enough for misalignment to show itself by unusual clutch or bearing wear. But it all looked good in there and appears ready to go another 50,000 miles before it gets another peek, and another 100,000 miles before the clutch disk wears out.

The only thing I didn't like is it's a bit dirtier inside than I'd prefer. But that’s all my fault; I left a big gap when I notched the bottom of the transmission bell housing so I could fit this powerplant in the Corrode Warrior (see MAX Update No. 7). I'm very happy with how this adapter is holding up, happy enough to make one for you if you want to make your own MAX, or for whatever Kubota/Toyota project strikes your fancy.


Browse previous MAX Updates.
Read the introductory MAX article, Here Comes the 100-mpg Car.
Visit the Kinetic Vehicles website for more technical details on MAX.

New AMP Electric Riding Mower from Ariens

The electric riding mower arena just got twice as crowded as the Ariens AMP™ Rider joins Hustler Turf’s Zeon all-electric zero-turn mower. The all-electric rear-wheel-drive and front-wheel steer AMP fills a more traditional riding-mower niche with a battery-powered machine that promises to deliver as much drive and cutting power as a conventional gas-powered riding mower without the emissions, oil, belts or noise associated with gasoline-powered mowers. The new AMP Rider will be available in May at The Home Depot and select Ariens dealers throughout the United States. Mother Earth News is hoping to test drive one soon, so stay tuned for more news on this new electric mower.

AMP Electric Riding Mower from Ariens
       PHOTO COURTESY ARIENS

Here are excerpts from the AMP electric riding mower news release:

Ariens is the first company to offer a riding electric mower in conjunction with a mass channel retail chain and through a wide and proven dealer network across the U.S. AMP™ Rider will sell for an MSRP of $3,299, the lowest priced all-electric riding lawn mower on the market.

“We understand that our customers desire alternative energy fueled mowers, and we are methodically moving our company towards offering a line of products that run off electric and other alternative fuels,” says Dan Ariens, company president. “With AMP™ Rider, we are able to offer homeowners a way to reduce fuel expenses and produce zero emissions, without sacrificing the power, reliability and support they expect from Ariens’ products.”

The AMP™ Rider is clean, easy and powerful and offers the following features:

  • No gasoline-producing emissions
  • 50 percent quieter than gas-reliant engine mowers
  • Fully charges in 16 hours (overnight) and runs up to 75 minutes on one charge
  • Charges with smart technology, shutting down automatically once full charge is reached
  • Same power as a conventional gas-powered rear engine riding mower
  • Minimal maintenance: no oil, gas, belts to maintain
  • Constructed with the same durable, high performance structure used on other Ariens premium riding mowers
  • Strong support network, with 2,000 Ariens dealers across the country

AMP™ Rider meets ANSI safety standards and offers a range of safety features one would expect from Ariens.

Ariens batteries
   PHOTO COURTESY ARIENS
  Batteries in the AMP Rider power the mower for up to 75 minutes on a charge.

How much lawn will the AMP™ cut?  
The AMP™ Rider electric mower will cut an acre of lawn within an hour.

How powerful is the mower?  
The AMP™ Rider electric mower has a 4.0 hp traction or drive motor and two 1.7 hp cutting motors. It is just as powerful as a conventional gas-powered, rear-engine riding mower.

How long will the mower operate before it needs to be recharged?  
Depending on the terrain, length of grass and moisture, the AMP™ Rider electric mower will cut continuously for up to 75 minutes.

Is it a hybrid?  
No. The AMP™ Rider electric mower is 100 percent electrically powered.

How long does it take to recharge the batteries?  
The AMP™ Rider electric mower can be recharged in 16 hours. With an optional 20-amp charger, the AMP™ Rider can be recharged in five hours. Technology integrated within the battery allows the unit to automatically shut off and hibernate when full recharge is reached, saving electricity costs.

Is it quieter than a gas mower?  
Noise tests have consistently shown the AMP™ Rider electric mower delivers more than a 50% reduction in noise.

What maintenance is required?  
The AMP™ Rider electric mower requires little to no maintenance. There are no belts to replace, no oil changes to make, and no off-season storage preparation required. The blades will need to be sharpened on average every two years depending on the volume of mowing the AMP™ conducts.

If something needs repair, can I get it serviced locally?  
Yes. In every community where the AMP™ Rider electric mower is sold, there is a Certified AMP Dealer trained to service the AMP™ Rider.

What is the cost and the ROI?  
AMP™ Rider is selling for $3,299 MSRP and is available at HomeDepot.com and at Certified AMP™ Rider Dealers across the country. We estimate that with a gallon of gas costing $3 per gallon and with weekly mowing, the average consumer would save $120 a year on fuel costs and avoid additional costs for oil and tune-ups.
 
How much does it cost to replace the battery and how often does it need to be replaced? 
AMP™ batteries are designed for 200 charges — the equivalent of about three to four years of mowing. The current estimate for battery replacement based on today’s battery technology is $749.

That cost is comparable to the $600 to $800 in savings you will incur with an electric mower over a three- to four-year time — about $200 per year for gas, oil and annual maintenance tune-up, including the cost of replacement filters and spark plugs. Advancements in battery technology may also cause the price to decrease by the time AMP™ batteries will need to be replaced.




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