Incredible Homestead Chickens

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Materials for litter should be as high in carbon as possible and include leaves and wood shavings. Sawdust and wood chips can be used, though they should be aged first. I avoid straw because it can support the growth of harmful molds.

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The microbes use nitrogen in the droppings as an energy source as they break down the litter into simpler elements. As the carbon in the litter is used up, the nitrogen can no longer be utilized efficiently by the microbes and begins outgassing as ammonia. Ammonia is bad for your birds’ respiratory tissues, so that first whiff of ammonia is your signal to add fresh material or clean out the litter. Materials higher in nitrogen, such as hay and soybean vines, don’t work as well for litter, because they decompose too quickly.

Deep litter also is labor-saving. You might need to shovel out the equivalent of finished compost once a year or so, and you can use it in the garden without further processing.

If you need to use an existing building with a wood or concrete floor, that’s OK. You can still use a deep layer of organic material as the foundation of proper manure management (straw in this context is fine, since it stays drier). In this case, the litter does not break down as completely and will need to be composted before use in the garden.

There is one potential problem with deep litter over an earth floor — the exposure of your flock to digging predators. It’s a grueling initial chore, but it’s imperative to dig a metal roof flashing or half-inch hardware cloth barrier 18 inches deep around the perimeter of your poultry house.


Harvey Ussery is committed to helping revive small-scale backyard poultry production. Visit his Web site here.


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Comments

  • TROY GRIEPENTROG 12/1/2008 10:12:10 AM

    From the author:

    I can't address the question as an expert, since all my experience with poultry has been in much warmer climes--I'm in northern Virginia, Zone 6b.

    Couple of things come to mind: Northern "flocksters" often prefer breeds with minimalist combs--that is, combs (and wattles) that are much smaller than for example in the single-comb breeds. Those big exposed combs (especially on the cocks) tend to get frostbite in really cold winter temperatures.

    A good dual purpose breed you might consider: Chantecler. They were bred in Canada, and the combs are almost non-existent. They're also considered good winter layers. I've worked only with Partridge Chantecler, but there are other colors/patterns as well. PC hens have a tendency to go "broody" (set a clutch of eggs to hatch out chicks). You may or may not consider this a plus--some folks find broodiness a pain.

    An excellent source of info for helping make a choice of breeds is Barry Kofler's "feathersite":
    http://www.feathersite.com//Poultry/BRKPoultryPage.html

    ~Harvey Ussery

  • Hawaiian Healer 11/15/2008 11:10:41 AM

    what would be some good breeds for southeast idaho. In the summer it can reach 95-100 degrees in the winter it can reach -30F and I'm at 5,700 feet above sea level. I'm just wanting a few chickens around the yard for eggs mostly.

    thanks in advance for any help

  • Tammy 8/21/2008 1:58:02 PM

    Nice article and comments. We have been raising chickens for the past 4 years in portable poultry shelters(chicken tractors)We have raised several batches of broilers as well as keep hens for eggs. The best shelter on the market today is from Easy-Garden. See the web site at www.easy-garden.com. The shelters are used at Bee Heaven Farm in Florida as well as the 4W Ranch in Washington as well as several other sustainable farms and hobby farms.

  • Michaeline 1/22/2008 2:18:45 PM

    I'm planning to start a flock in the spring. I am looking for a
    coupe that can be moved so that I can have my flock graze more of
    my land. I have a small orchard and a large garden area. They are
    not close to eachother so I was hoping to find a way to make thier
    coupe mobile. I had seen mobile coupes in this magazine I thought.
    I also plan to have a perminant larger coupe. I would consider open
    range if it weren't for the dogs and cyotes, racoons, owls and
    DOGS. My neighbor has to many! Anyway, we live in the very
    northeastern part of Washington, today it is in the single digets
    tempature wise. How do you care for your birds in this type of
    weather?? Where can I find plans or recommendations on building a
    coupe? Thanks!

  • david 1/2/2008 12:05:25 AM

    I begin raising chickens 1 year ago.I have cucu marantz, white and
    black leggorns, and 5 other breeds.The biggest deal with chickens
    is they do not like change.If you change their feed, bring in a
    bunch of other chickens or move them they will quit laying eggs for
    a while.We keep ours fenced in and put wire over the top of the pen
    because here in arkansas the coons, possums or owels and chicken
    hawks will eat them all up.

  • bobbear43 12/8/2007 8:09:28 PM

    I forgot to mention that our chickens were free-range. Their fenced
    yard was about 30' x 60'. We never had to worry about weeds in
    there. If anyone doubts that chickens are omnivorous, you should
    see what they do when they find a mouse nest in the compost pile,
    or a baby bird falls out of a tree. We also had a 3-super bee hive
    in their yard, and they ate the dead or dying bees the hive would
    discard. We have great horned owls here, and had to have bird
    netting above the whole yard. Otherwise we would find the wings of
    some poor hen clipped off, and her gone missing. Eventually our
    chickens fell prey over time to raccoons after our dog began to get
    old. But our RI hens lived for about 3 years and laid prolifically
    the whole time. Auracanas were also productive and long-lived.

  • bobbear43 12/8/2007 7:54:47 PM

    It's been 20 years but when my kids were young and on a "we won't
    eat that because raising poultry is inhumane" kick we had a flock
    on purpose so that they could see that it could be done humanely.
    We started with 24 Rhode Island Reds (some "sex-cross" variety). We
    raised them for 12 weeks, at which time they were the size of small
    turkeys! At that time, we also decided to keep the "girls" because
    some had already started laying .... big brown healthy eggs. The
    "boys" dressed out at about 6-7 pounds after slaughtering and
    cleaning. We used a killing method from Mother Earth News in the
    past .... hang them upside-down in a cone, and bleed them out ....
    very calm. The kids helped with the slaughtering. Our 12 RI hens
    laid a dozen eggs most days. Later my son wanted more chickens, so
    we had a wide variety of breeds. At one time we had 50 chickens on
    a one-acre city lot, and supplied grandparents and friends with
    eggs. Our chicken coops were an a-frame elevated type with a deep
    litter area underneath, and a hinged nesting box on the back. The
    design was from 4H for use in our Tucson climate.

  • Vivienne 11/24/2007 1:52:10 PM

    Re: Chicken Breeds We have a mixed flock of up to 60 chickens with
    3 roosters. We have had buff orpingtons, wyandottes, (barred &
    white) rock, lakenvelder, australorpe, leghorns (brown & white)
    Rhode Island red, hampshire and a few other sundry breeds. The one
    we like best is the Transylvanian Naked Neck - often called turken.
    They have most of their neck bare of feathers. That are early,
    consistent layers and are the first out at dawn to forage and the
    last in at night. Despite their lack of neck feathering, in our
    higher altitude Oregon climate, they are the first to get under the
    snow to forage for whatever they can find. I thought that they
    would be cold sensitive but apparently not. They like to flock
    together (we have 2 groups - 5 in one and 9 in another) and they
    stay together - we have to clip their wings because they will fly
    over fences for better foraging opportunities. - Vivienne

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