Summer Heat
(Page 2 of 5)
Unfortunately, these parasites are not so easy to control, especially in the blistering heat of summer. However, we can manage to keep their numbers down to a bare minimum. The key is to maintain a year-round plan inclusive of both animals and the environment.
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The bad news is that the flea problem has been increasing in severity over the past few years; the good news is that there is a multitude of products available for treatment of both pets and infected areas in the home or yard. Most of the topical products (sprays, powders, and collars) contain one of the following ingredients: pyrethrums (a chemical extracted from the chrysanthemum) or its derivatives, limonene (a derivative of citrus fruit pulp), or organophosphate's. In addition, some newer products contain insect growth regulators that interfere with the development of the flea. While it's worrisome to think you're placing potentially toxic substances on your pet's skin and hair, most of the formulas have relatively low mammalian toxicity if used correctly. Nonetheless, they're very toxic to insects.
Several natural ingredients or herbal remedies—among them garlic, brewer's yeast, onions, and thiamine—have been studied for flea control. None have been found to be effective and most impart nothing but horrid breath to dogs and cats.
Flea collars are generally inadequate if used alone. Basically, you must consider exactly where the heart of the problem is—how much time the flea actually spends on the animal. Did you realize the adult flea spends almost all of its time off of the animal? That's right—95% of a flea's life cycle is spent on the carpets, furniture, and maybe even your clothing. A favorite saying among veterinarians is: The best place for the flea collar is anywhere but the pet.
Another problem with flea collars is that for the short time the fleas are on the animal, they gather at the back end, near the tail, thighs, and along the rump (all areas that claws and feet don't reach too well). The only way a collar could truly be useful would be if you hung one every two inches along the animal's body (which is not all that practical and pretty unsightly).
Reason number three is that flea collars have their active ingredient incorporated into a slow-release matrix that may effectively weaken immature fleas but lacks the quick-kill property of sprays, baths, or powders. The only thing collars really have going for them is their convenience.
My best suggestions for flea control are:
Treat all pets in the house with a reliable product (from your vet or pet shop) that has good immediate knock-down effect to kill adult fleas and a residual effect to kill larvae. Flea combs and shampoos can be used as well as powders and sprays. (Note: Use only one product at a time on your dog or cat; a combination of products can be fatal to your pet.)
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