A BACKYARD DAIRY COW:part I
July/August 1981
By Randy Kidd
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Bovine breeds: [1] Brown Swiss . . . [2] blackspotted Holstein . . . [3] brownspotted Holstein . . . [4] Jersey . . . [5] Ayrshire . . . [6] Guernsey. [7] A good milkmaker will require well-balanced, high-protein rations, as well as hay and pasture grass. [8] A sturdy metal milking stand. [9] A commercial milking parlor. [10] The backyard dairy cows ""liquid"" assets are ample payment for the small amount of care she'll require
Photos By The Author
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In this and the next three issues, MOTHER's animal medicine man will explore the world of homestead cattle, beginning with . . .
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TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR RAISING
Just one "bossy" contentedly chewing her cud in the lower 40—or even in a small backyard plot—can easily provide your family with all the milk, cheese, and other dairy products you'll ever need. In fact, a single cow can actually overwhelm a single household with a super—abundance of delicious white liquid . . . but the problem of dealing with such excess—especially since extra milk can easily be put to good (and potentially profitable) use—is just the sort of hassle that most self-sufficient homesteaders hope to face!
What's more, milk and its by—products aren't the only goods that a dairy animal will provide. She'll raise her own calf (or calves) each year to supply your freezer with steaks and hamburgers . . . and—of course—will also add an abundance of material to the compost pile.
I. PICK THE BEST COW YOU CAN FIND
I've said it before, but I'll stress this point once again: If there's any one livestock-raising commandment that is of prime importance, it's the rule that you should always pick the very best animal you can find. When you realize that—poor producer or not—you'll have to milk (and pour feed into) a hungry hay-burner twice a day, seven days a week, for the next 10 to 15 years, it should be very evident that you want to start with a good cow.
If you haven't been around dairy cattle much, it's best to have an experienced herder (preferably not a person who's trying to sell you an animal) give you some pointers on making a good buy. As an alternative, you can also learn a good bit about cow-choosing by simply sitting ringside at a local fair or cattle show, and matching your discerning eye against that of the judge.
Naturally, the critter you select should be healthy. Look for clear and bright eyes, a shiny coat, a clean and moist muzzle, and "cowlike" feces (not firm, but also not . . . well, you've probably seen normal cow pies before) . . . and be sure that the animal has no limps, lumps, or cuts.
Remember, though, that a quality cow will look a lot different from a beef-bearing steer. A good milkmaker will appear angular, having prominent shoulder tops and hip bones. Her ribs will show, but they shouldn't stick out. She'll have a large chest area with plenty of room for lungs and heart, and her belly should look as if it could easily hold a 55-gallon drum's worth of food.
A dairy cow's "manufacturing plant"oher udder—is, as you'd imagine, the 'beast's most important asset. You should learn how to recognize a quality, high-producing udder before you even consider 'shopping for a cow. In general, the bigger:and more capacious the appendage, the better. When you look at Bossy from the rear, the bag should fill a large area between her hocks ... and, when viewed from the side, it should extend well forward in the flank region. But though the udder should be large, it shouldn't be pendulous.
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