TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR RAISING HEALTHY RABBITS

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III. KNOW WHAT A NORMAL ANIMAL LOOKS AND FEELS LIKE

When you begin to look for your "seed stock" (most rabbit breeders start out with two does and one buck), you'll soon learn that the long-eared animals come in many different breeds and sizes. How. ever, most "hare raisers" across the country agree that the mid-sized (10 to 12 pounds) New Zealand White and California varieties make about the best backyard livestock.

Of course, you'll want to be certain that your potential purchases are all healthy, so examine each bunny—closely— before you buy. The inside of the critter's ears should not have the dry scabs that are caused by ear mites ... its hocks and feet should be free of sore spots ... its nose shouldn't be wet, runny, or crusty ... and its droppings should be firm and round. If the animal looks fit in these (and other) obvious respects (doe rabbits should have eight or more nipples, for instance), you can be pretty darn sure you've found a healthy critter.

By the way, NEVER lift a rabbit by its ears! Always pick up the fluffy furbearer by gently grasping a handful of skin at the scruff of its neck and—at the same time-placing a supporting hand under its bottom.

IV. CHOOSE THE BEST ANIMALS

Many of the individual traits that go into producing plenty of meaty bunnies for your table are passed on from one generation to the next, so be sure to buy superior specimens. Only purchase bucks and does with excellent production records (or youngsters bred from such prolific propagators). In addition, you can tell a lot about what sort of offspring your breeding stock will engender by feeling the potential parents. Most of a rabbit's meat comes from its hind legs, so gently squeeze any buck or doe's rear thighs to judge how plump and meaty those areas are. Give a "squeeze test" to the back—between the critter's pelvis and ribs—as well. This loin muscle section should be long, wide, and firm.

V. CULL THE WORST ANIMALS

It's an easy matter to remove the poor producers, negligent mothers, and seriously uncooperative breeders from your rabbit herd: Simply butcher and eat the critters. Unfortunately, though, even the most productive parents will decline in "breed ability" after five or six years, so your older animals should also be regularly culled.

VI. FEED THE CRITTERS CORRECTLY

Water is the single most important element in a rabbit's diet. A doe and her litter will consume a full gallon each day, so keep plenty of clean liquid refreshment in the hutches at all times.

When it comes to selecting a "chewable" feed, you should be aware that protein is the food ingredient most critical to assuring superior growth and production. Adult rabbits require a diet with at least 12% of the valuable foodstuff, while nursing mothers and growing youngsters need a 20% protein ration. A rabbit on a protein-deficient diet will grow more slowly, and—if it's a doe-bear fewer young and/or produce less milk.

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