A Goat-milking Stand

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First mark a point 12 inches from one end of your 2" X 2" X 8' board. Then move along another 9 inches and scribe a second spot. Continue this 12-inch-then-9-inch spacing for another four points . . . so that you end up with marks at 12, 21, 33, 42, 54, and 63 inches.

Next, start at the same end of the 2" X 2" upon which you began the first series of marks but on the opposite long edge -and move in 1-1/2 inches to scribe the first point. Leave a 9inch space before marking again, and then move 12 inches more and scratch another line. Repeat the 9 inch, 12 inch series for four more marks . . . yielding points at 1-1/2, 10-1/2, 22-1/2, 31-1/2, 43-1/2, 52-1/2, and 64-1/2 inches.

Finally, simply cut through the angled line formed by each opposing pair of marks. (Or you could set your miter box -if you have on eat 45° . . . which should just match the slants marked by the sets of points.) Then, once the angled pieces (G) are made, cut the 18" rear leg brace (F)-and the two 1-1/2" stanchion locking pin handles (H)-from the remaining section of 2" X 2".

DRILLING

After all the parts are cut and marked, gather up the pieces which require drilling (as indicated by the drilling table that accompanies this article). Notice that-as shown in the tool list-3/8" and 3/4" drill bits will be necessary.

And bear in mind-as you make the required holes-that thougli all of them should be drilled as squarely as possible, it is exceedingly important that the 3/4" bores be straight . . . or there will be an alignment problem when you try to assemble the stand's stanchions.

ASSEMBLY

Tacking the milking stand together is the simplest part of the procedure . . . once all the parts are cut to size and marked. First, locate the nails specified in the materials list: The 3-1/4" spikes are used to secure the 2" X 4" boards, the 2-1/4" fasteners are for the braces, the 1-1/2" roofing nails hold the floor in place, and the 1-1/4" finishing nails both keep the feedbox together and form the brace which holds up the grain receptacle's floor.

Now start the actual construction of the milking stand by assembling the frame from the two undrllled side frame rails (A), the undrilled rear frame rail (C), and the drilled front frame rail (E). Remember, while Part E fits between the side rails, Part C spans the ends of those longitudinal pieces. Once the rectangle is together, add the rear legs (B) and their brace (F). These supports should be set into the corner formed by the frame rails so that their ends are flush with the frame's top surface. Also at this time, locate the two 3/4" X 6" dowels and glue them into the front frame rail (E), so the adhesive will be well set by the time you need to work with the assembly.

Next take both stanchion legs (D), measure 14-1/2 inches from one end of each of 'em and make a mark-square to the length of each board-at both of those points. Line the marks up with the bottom of the front frame rail and side rail ends, and nail the stanchion legs into the indicated position.

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