A Goat-milking Stand

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Not long ago-after grappling with my ornery old goat Eunice just one time too many-I decided that I was due to own a milking stand. Besides hoping that I could save a little of my own hide-and maybe even keep that crochety nanny from tap-dancing in the milk bucket-I figured I could use the restrainer when trimming the critter's hooves and administering her shots . . . two jobs that have always been difficult for both the nanny and me.

However, my search for a functional commercial milking stand was pretty disappointing. I found one locally. . . but it cost $60 and was so flimsy that I knew darn well Eunice would kick it into kindling in no time flat. Even a search of likely local auctions proved fruitless: I did, at one of the public sales, spy a custom job that looked sturdy enough to take my goat's best kick . . . but-unfortunately-I would have needed a crane and a flatbed truck to haul the massive frame (made from 4 X 6's) away.

So-with my good humor stretched to the breaking point from several hours of fruitless driving, and yet another milking time comin' up soon-I stomped out to the of workshop and set about building my own milking stand . . . a device that would measure up to my specific needs.

The resulting goat-grabber weighs less than 60 pounds, has survived almost a year of Eunice's abuse, and-best of all -can cost less than $18.24 to build (if you recycle some lumber, as I did). I've managed to haul the stand to two fairs (without slipping a disc lifting it), and have trimmed my nanny goat's hooves and administered her injections with a minimum of trouble ... since she'd much rather munch on oats from the feed bin than complain about such smalltime nuisances. Indeed, this stand might just be the answer to most any goatkeeper's prayers. And-if you'll follow my instructions-I think you'll find it as easy to build as I did.

PRECUTTING

In my experience, presawing the lumber for a shop project not only saves construction time, but also helps prevent mistakes . . . because it lets a builder understand how the pieces fit together before he or she starts nailing.

Begin by cutting the boards to the dimensions on the chart, but be sure to add 1/16" to each measurement to allow for the saw's width. Plus-if you mark each piece with a letter (according to the chart) after you cut it you won't have to remeasure the parts later to determine which is which.

Most of the required cuts can be made with a standard handsaw or a power saw . . . they're not in the least complicated. There is, however, one portion of the sawing which might-at least initially-look a little confusing. You see, in order for the leg braces to fit properly, they must be cut at a 45° angle. Fortunately, there's a shortcut which makes this job a breeze . . . with or without a miter box.

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