The Complete Homestead Duck Guide
(Page 3 of 9)
Domesticated ducks, too, will forage for most of their food whenever possible, but—if you want to keep your birds plump—some diet supplements should be provided. Such "storebought food" can be in the form of commercial waterfowl "chow" (pellets are best) or mixed whole grains such as corn, wheat, barley, and oats. Corn is by far the birds' favorite meal — and also a great winter warmth provider—but "maize" alone won't give them the balanced diet they need. Remember, too, that you must never give your ducks any commercial feed with chemical additives (or with more than 20% protein), since such a dinner might kill young birds and cripple older ones.
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Greens are also extremely important and should make up about a third of the bulk of a duck's diet. (You won't have to worry about what to do with the excess vegetables and fruit from your garden and orchard if you have waterfowl around!) When no greenery is available, feed the birds rabbit pellets of pressed alfalfa. (Clover—before it blooms—and alfalfa will increase the fertility of your flock.)
Unless your ducks range freely, feed them (give the birds as much as they can eat in 15 minutes) twice a day. If they go out foraging, though, it's generally best to feed them once in the evening.
But—whatever and whenever your birds eat—be sure they get enough grit (coarse sand or fine river gravel, for example) or the food will simply pass through them without being ground up in their gizzards. Ducks without access to grit will lose weight and be hungry all the time, and their droppings will be large and puffy instead of the "proper" watery splotches. (Calcium—such as is found in ground oyster shells—is also essential for layers, but can be harmful to immature fowl.)
Along with food, ducks must always have fresh water nearby . . . to keep them from choking on their grain. The pond, tub, or whatever you use should be deep enough, too, to allow the birds to dunk their heads. Otherwise, their nostrils may get clogged, and they can get an infection called "sticky-eye".
PROBLEM PREVENTION
Providing good nutrition, clean water, sufficient space, and good sanitation at all stages of a duck's development will prevent a host of problems. For example, brooder pneumonia (aspergillosis)—caused by a fungus sometimes present in litter—can usually be avoided if you make sure your flock's litter and brooder house are kept dry. Strict sanitation—and the avoidance of mudholes and slimy areas in the range penswill also help to insure against fowl cholera (Pasteurella multocida). To prevent botulism, which is caused by bacteria in decaying plant material, simply maintain clean facilities (both living and swimming) and be sure to feed the birds only fresh—never wilted or rotting—vegetation.
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