The Complete Homestead Duck Guide
(Page 2 of 9)
Muscovies are often called the "quackless" duck (and considered a good choice for urban or suburban areas) because the drakes can only hiss when upset ... though the females will occasionally squawk when frightened. These south-of-the-border ducks are strong fliers, however, and should have their wings clipped or pinioned in order to keep them confined to the yard. Muscovies are an ideal breed for home use, though, as they reproduce readily and their highly flavored meat is downright delicious.
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(If you'd like to learn more about different breeds and their feed and shelter requirements, you might want to order a copy of Ducks and Geese in Your Back yard: A Beginner's Guide by Rick and Gail Luttmann, which is available from Mother's Bookshelf for $5.95, plus 95¢ postage and handling.)
A HOME FIT FOR A DUCK
After you select a breed, you must make some preparations for the arrival of your fowl. Remember that webfoots require more space than do chickens, so allow at least 1/2 square foot of floor space each for ducklings up to two weeks of age ... twice that amount for two- to four-week-olds . . . two square feet for one- to two-month-old "juniors" . . . and a full five to six square feet for mature birds.
Whether you keep your flock fenced in or let them roam free, the ducks must have some kind of well-ventilated-but draft-free-shelter: An old dog house, chicken coop, small shed, or (in warm climates) a simple lean-to will do.
You must also keep in mind that waterfowl don't sleep all night as chickens do, and that moonlight (or the beams from a street lamp or porch light) shining into their quarters can occasion restless and noisy nights.
In addition, while it's true that most breeds can withstand very low temperatures, ducks have poor circulation in their feet and can become stubfooted or otherwise crippled without a fairly warm (around 45°F) winter home. Plenty of straw in their shelter and in the yard around their feeding area is also necessary to prevent frozen foot problems and—during the summer—you should provide the birds with some refuge from the hot sun (shade trees are usually sufficient for this).
And don't let the lack of a natural water site stop you from raising a few ducks. Your mini-flock will be eternally grateful to you (and much healthier), however, if you provide them with some sort of artificial swimming area-a concrete pool, sunken tub or cistern, old bathtub, or hard-plastic swimming pool-and clean the container once a week. (And, of course, your garden will prosper when drenched with the discarded manure-rich water!)
FOOD AND FORAGE
Wild ducks eat a wide assortment of foods . . . including plants, seeds, insects, fish, crayfish, worms, and even an occasional mouse.
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